bstone

Regarding ABS codes, you'll need to find an ABS code reader. It's not the normal OBD-II reader, unfortunately. I have an Actron scanner that has ABS codes, but it doesn't work for all cars.

I checked again tonight, doing another pressure leak down test. I got one of the mechanics to listen with his ears for the hissing. It turned out to be the upper radiator hose. I replaced it and then repressurized (after refilling the tank) and the pressure remained constant. I think I found my culprit.

Well now I am still confused. I ran a chemical block test using this test and it was negative both times I ran it. In addition to the lack of smoke coming from the tail pipe I am thinking that maybe my loss of pressure it coming from the water pump. Thoughts?

When I hear a car alarm I intentionally do not check it out. 99.99% of the time it's an accidental trip. If someone's car is getting stolen I run, not walk, away from it. Don't wanna get hurt by some nutso.

There's your problem! Replace it and let us know what happens.

Any chance it's the rear main seal? Have you checked the trans pan oil gasket?

They might have a rental kit for this job at autozone or advance auto parts. Check it out.

Went to the local Subaru dealer and got a bottle of the Coolant Conditioner for $1.75. Then went to the grocery story and got a bottle of ground black pepper for the same price, exactly. Added both. Let car run for 15 min with heat on highest. Will check coolant level in the morning and do another leak pressure test.

Possibly I'll try both. I hate black pepper in my food and have a bit laying around. Can't hurt if I am planning on replacing the engine anyhow, right?

What do you all know about putting ground up black pepper into the radiator? One of the mechanics at the shop swears by it and keep telling me to try it before I do anything else.

It's a kit you can rent from AutoZone. Go in and ask for the pressure tester and the foreign car adaptor. Pump it to 16 PSI and see what happens. It's not supposed to lose pressure as it's supposed to be a closed system. Yup, it is bad news.

Did another pressure leak down test. This time I removed the hose to the external tank and the pressure went in. Pumped it up to 16PSI in the yellow zone. Took about 10 minutes, but I heard a clear hissing and the pressure was going down very quickly. The hissing is coming the engine compartment- I would bet the headgasket. Yup....

Would you believe me if I told you that I've only been working at the garage for 3 weeks? I did a lot of work on my own car, which is how I got started. Before I dig into someone else's engine I figure I'll do my own.

I'm no pro, but I do work at a garage and have access to lifts, pulleys and a bunch of mechanics who can guide me when things get confusing. I do mostly minor work- brakes, oil changes, tune ups, reading codes and swaping sensors when they fail. Learning more every day.

I would be willing to pay the money for a CCR rebuilt engine, but it is expensive. Is there anything different in those engines other than a general rebuild? The JDM engines have between 55-65k miles on them, approaching the HG failure point. I can easily swap the HGs before putting the engine in the car. Do you all think that would give me an engine to last a long long time?

I think the consensus here is pretty clear- new/low mileage engine. What are the thoughts on the JDM engines? The low mileage sounds good and I can to a HG replacement with the new Subaru (not FelPro) ones before any damage happens. Eager to hear your opinions.

The answer to that is I have been restoring this old car and plan to drive it for years to come. I recently put in a low-mileage trans, replaced the entire brake system (rotors, calipers, pads), replaced all 4 sway bar links, replaced the oil, trans, spark plug and valve cover gaskets, rear main seal and oil separator plate (while the trans was out). Just trying to determine the best course of action. I am fine doing any of them. Also, why not FelPro's HGs? I've heard they are superior to even the "new" Subaru HGs.

As it appears I am suffering from a slow but significant HG leak I am now looking into options. This engine has 230k miles on it and is not nearly as optimal as it used to be. So should I:: 1) Pull the heads, send them for machining and replace the HGs with the FelPro HG? 2) Replace the heads with quality reman heads? 3) Replace the engine? The first would be the easiest for me, as I work at a garage and can do the labor mostly myself. I might pay some of the other techs a few bucks to help me lift the motor, if that ends up being necessary. The second would be the easiest in terms of time and labor. Simply pull the old heads and put new ones on. Also, the price for a reman heads vs machining them is not too different. The third would put a low-mileage motor in to replace my old one. A head job wouldn't solve any of the engine block issues and a JDM motor is just under a grand. Suggestions? Ideas? Your feedback is very much appreciated.

THat might work, but it likely won't completely cut off the air flow, thus leading to a tainted reading. I'll try it tonight, tho.

I guess the adaptor for foreign cars at AutoZone isn't the right one to use when trying to do a pressure test. The pressure test device they have does not fit my radiator input, thus the adaptor. How can I get it done?

How does the adaptor for the radiator neck fit over? It snugly hugs the lip, but the air I pump in goes right into the hose to the reservoir? I brought the car to the local dealer and asked that they check the HG. 30 minutes later they said "it's fine" but refused to check the disappearing coolant unless I ponied up money. They want $130. No thanks. I ran a block test with the fluid and tube. 3 times it came up negative for exhaust in the coolant.

I did and it hasn't overheated in over 3 weeks. No, the engine is off and the bubbles are from the pump to pressurize the coolant system. I know this will go away once I determine how to plug up the coolant reservoir. How? It's no longer overheating, only disappearing coolant.

I went to AutoZOne and got the coolant pressure tester and the foreign adaptor. I hooked it up and started pumping, but all of the air just bubbled out of the reservoir. How do I make that not happen? Regarding the coolant conditioner, I've been told by 2 owners of independent Subaru shops that the Bar's Leak is nearly identical to the Subaru stuff. They each recommended using it first.

He wanted to charge $75 for hitting the clear code button? Just disconnect the - battery terminal for 10 minutes and it'll do the same. Sheesh!

97 Legacy Outback Wagon, 230k miles. Every morning I have to add about a quart of water/coolant to the radiator. I burp it by squeezing the upper hose until no more bubbles are present. I am not overheating, but did overheat about 3 weeks ago. I see no coolant under the car. I am nervous I might have an internal leak of head gasket issue. I ran a chemical "block test" which was three times negative for exhaust in the coolant. Put a can of Bar's Leak in for good measure. Where is the coolant? What can I do?