bstone

Maybe try these folks? http://www.alternatorparts.com/

I figured out and fixed the issue. It's really rather embarrassing, but perhaps more common on EJ25 engines than not. I heard a popping sort of noise recently and this past evening decided to finally investigate. I noticed when I tugged numbers 2 and 4 plug wires then the sound went away. And there it was- #4's boot was knocking up and down really violently. I recall I did recently do a compression test and perhaps didn't get the plugs back in all the way. I decided to take an hour and do it right- by removing the valve cover to give myself the room needed. I removed the valve cover, tightened #2 and 4 a LOT (this is why it's so embarrassing) put the cover back on, plugged back in the wires and WALLAH no more popping. The engine is running MUCH smoother. That was my problem. Understandable but stupid for someone who thinks themself a mechanic.

Gotchya. I'll turn it all on (lights, window wipers, etc) and check. I have an Optima Red Top battery (very new) in there, so I'll assume it's a bad alternator if I don't have at least 13V.

We have a charge tester at the garage. I'll try it tomorrow and see what I see under different loads. What voltages should I be seeing? I usually think 13V is around normal.

Got into the car this afternoon after making a stop for some lunch. Check engine light began to flash and then was steady after about a minute. I immediately scanned it, having my Actron sitting on the passenger side seat. It said Cylinder 2 & 4 misfire. The only way they would both suddenly begin to misfire is the coil pack going back. I am on my third coil pack so I knew I needed to find out what was making the coil pack to bad. Got to the shop and asked the smartest mechanic there what he thought. We looked through the circuit diagrams of the engine and he showed me two main grounds for the engine. Said they might be corroded and need cleaning. Where they are, that is a good question. After several minutes of looking I indeed found two grounds on either side of the motor- one under the throttle body and under on the passenger side of the intake manifold. I removed each, sprayed them down with Liquid Wrench and put them back in. I then cleared the codes and let the car run for 10 minutes. No codes and the engine acted as smooth. I then removed the wires from the coil one at a time, and each produced a very rough engine. Then drive home, 12 miles. No check engine lights, no roughness, good gas mileage (30mpg +/- 2). So- are the two grounds the ones I saw on the diagram? Moreover, any ideas? The ECU has already been replaced and the wires/plugs are NGK.

I am going to try to reboot it later tonight with some of the evening guys at the garage, but I am not sure it will work. Thanks for the link to MWE. If I order new then I'll get from them.

I work at a shop. We simply don't want to reboot. Too messy, too many problems. Easier to replace. I'll check the price of an OE drive shaft from the dealer.

My rear passenger axle's boot is ripped open and is leaking grease. I am going to replace it instead of repairing the boot as a boot repair is just too difficult/annyoing. Plus, the axle is ancient. Before I spend money on a Duralast or whatever, I would be very happy to receive your suggestions for a replacement. I prefer new, but would be happy to get a quality reman. I replaced the front passenger 2 months ago with a reman from AutoZone and since then I have a terrible vibration when I am in drive but not moving. Thus, quality is very important. thx!

Check and clean the throttle plate. I had a similar problem when I put the duct work backtogether, but since you've checked it a hundred times then it must be something else. For me it was that small hose coming off of the intake.

My next guess (if you have already replaced the coil and the ECU) would be a stuck lifter. It's a rebuild, so it's entirely possible.

Did you change the plugs and wires for 3 and 4, using subaru parts?

Clean the throttle plate. Get some carb cleaner and a few rags and clean it for about 10 minutes. Have you ever talked to CCR about the misfires? I wouldn't be happy with that.

We had that problem with an alternator at the shop the other day. A cheap chinese aftermarket part and it wouldn't bolt up.

Time to make Squirrel soup! It you cleaned the sensor and the light it off then don't replace it. How is it driving? Any more loss of power?

Rooting fer ya. If it comes back just know we'll be here.

Replace the ECU? It might be shorting out the coil pack.

Specification Sidewall Radius Diameter Circumference Revs/Mile Difference 205/70-15 5.6in 13.1in 26.3in 82.6in 767 0.0% 195/65-15 5.0in 12.5in 25.0in 78.5in 807 -5.0%

My OBW currently has 205/70R15 tires, but I want to put on the Michelin Energy Saver A/S tires, but they come only in 195/65R15. What would happen if I put these smaller tires on?

Check the plugs, wires, coil. Make sure they are all snug. Unplug and replug all the airhoses, paying special attention to the air ducting and the small hose below the MAFS. Also, unplug the MAFS and try without it plugged in. You'll get a check engine light but it will eliminate a computer glitch. Lastly, unplug the negative battery terminal and let the computer reset for 5 min before trying again.

There is a small air hose coming from below the ducting below the MAFS that will cause the car to stall if not hooked up. This happened to me when I swapped the passenger side plugs. Check it out.

You have pulled the engine three times? GOODNESS MAN! I am impressed. I replaced my oil separate plate when I replaced the transmission. I made sure to use the latest subaru OE part, which was metal vs the original plastic.

I have been noticing that my overflow tank's level has not changed at all, despite the system constantly running low on coolant. I'll change it and let you know. Should I get an OE or is an aftermarket ok?

New issue: When removing a radiator cap is it usual to have a strong suction/sucking feeling and noise accompany it? The upper radiator hose (which is new and perhaps a tiny bit too long) was under a bit of pressure and popped out when i removed the cap. Any ideas?

AutoZone, Advance Auto Parts, etc.....scan codes for free.

Not sure what this process you describe is, but the easiest way is to use an ABS code reader, like my Actron scanner.