bstone

Cops found the car and my keys a few blocks away, but they are now evidence. Not sure when I will get it back and what is missing.

Tonight I replaced all 4 plugs, taking out Bosch Platinum and putting in NGK Laser Platinum. The misfires went away. Then a black man came onto the drive way and pulled a gun on me and stole the car. I am not kidding.

Got the used engine in the car. All new gaskets- HG, valve cover, cam, crank, exhaust, etc. Used FelPro gaskets. You can see the triple layer of the HG. Have the old motor in the back. Bringing it home with me and will rebuild it. Maybe in a year or so when it's totally rebuilt I'll put it in. The used engine needs a knock sensor as it is throwing that code. All in all it seems to be doing ok.

Rent a code reader from AutoZone or AdvancedAutoParts. Click the "erase code" button. Or disconnect the - terminal battery for 10 minutes.

I had the same problem last night and today. Turned out blown HGs.

Update: Worst case scenario has happened. I got towed to a local import shop and their "subaru guy" and I took out the fans, removed the belts and took off the timing belt covers. The timing belt was a little bit loose but intact. It looked to be one tooth off. The water pump, however, was in very bad shape. It was very clearly leaking everything that came through it. We removed the old pump and put on a new one that I happen to have with me. Also replaced the timing belt, making sure the alignment was perfect. Replaced the t-stat with an OE I had (I carry a lot of parts). Filled it with fluid and tried to turn it over. With the radiator cap on and secure the coolant was shooting very forcefully out of it, down onto the ground. The mechanic told me to stop and said "it's the head gasket". Exhaust gas is getting into the coolant, super pressurizing it and making the coolant escape. Worst case scenario has happened. They happen to have another 2.5L Outback engine with 200k miles on it. They are selling it to me for $500 and will install it for $600. I asked them to entirely reseal it, with new HGs, crank seals, cam seals, exhaust seals, PCV plate, rear main seal, etc. That will add a few hundred to it, including the time they spent today. All told I am getting the high mileage/newly sealed motor for $2k. If all parts come then I will drive out of here tomorrow evening. I hope. I had hoped that it was just a timing issue. The water pump leaked out all the coolant and caused the motor to overheat. That's my story. I just wish this happened in Chicago where I could have done all of this at the shop I worked at. I will take the old motor with me and rebuild it in my spare time. Then, when this motor is on its way out, I'll install the old/rebuilt one. Not an ideal way to spend my time. Motel room and rental car is adding up quick. Anyone want to send me money?

I drained the oil and coolant. There was barely any coolant, even despite me adding nearly a half gallon last night. I noticed there was a steady leak coming from the timing belt cover on the driver's side. The lower radiator hose does not appear to be leaking. If I recall correctly, the water pump is on the driver's side. It appears my water pump is leaking. Possibly it leaked out the coolant, causing a massive overheat. I am getting towed to a local import shop that will do the labor for replacing the cylinder heads and HGs for $700. I will have to supply the parts. Ugg.

Folks, I was on I-90 E when I noticed my coolant temp gauge going near the H. I kept an eye on it and it suddenly went back down to normal and then quickly back up to H. I pulled over as I saw smoke starting to come out of the engine and turned off the car. It was smoking, not streaming. I pulled out the engine dip stick and there was white smoke coming out. I checked the upper and lower radiator hoses. The upper was HOT but the lower was luke warm. I suspect it's a bad t-stat, but it's an OE t-stat. I unplugged one of the wires and had someone crank it to check the arc. It was a yellow arc, not the nice blue arc. This is a video of me trying to crank the engine- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PUpKO3zFcOA I am thinking (hoping) when it overheated it burned out the coil pack. I am getting another from AutoZone in the morning at 11am. I am praying the ignitor (ICU) is fine. I will change the oil in the morning and also drain the coolant and pull the t-stat. I don't have another OE t-stat. Can I run the radiator with no t-stat? I am marooned in Michigan City, IN. I am staying at a motel for $80/night. There is an AutoZone across the street and an Advance Auto Parts a block away. HELP! If you are in Michigan City or in the area and want to help then I will have your babies for you! 773-407-0854 is my number. HELP!

Start checking fuses with a test light. Get a multimeter and check the voltage on the battery with the car on and off. Pull fuses to see where the drain is.

Under the hood? The engine hood?

Do you mean the strut mount?

How many times does the AT Oil Light flash?

United Drive Axle in Chicago has a lifetime warranty, but they don't ship. You have to get someone local to do it for you.

What do you need done? I got some guys in Boston who do amazing work and specialize on Japanese cars. Hondar House in Cambridge.

At 230k miles I've replaced all 4 axles with rebuilds.

Gentlemen, The plural of EJ22 is EJ22s. Not EJ22's. EJ22s=More than one EJ22 EJ22's=EJ22 is, or belonging to an EJ22

It comes with everything you need, even the mount nuts. Just reuse the two strut bolts and nuts that are already on there.

I did EXACTLY the same thing about 2 months ago.

http://dagostinoautoservice.com/ I worked here as a mechanic. The prices are rock bottom and they are open 24/7. If you need the HGs replaced then go and talk to Marco, the owner. He's an older Italian man who has owned the shop for 47 years. They are really good about letting you buy the parts you want and installing them for you. This way you don't get insane mark ups on price and you also get to have quality parts installed.

Replace the ECU. You might need a new coil.

Wow...talk about a lie.

Try Bars Leak. Or Steel Seal.

I just paid United Drive Axle in Chicago $40 to rebuild three axles. However, they do not ship nor do they have a website. If you send me your axle I'll have them do it.

lol hahahahahaa

It's likely an ABS sensor on one of the wheels, but which one I don't know. Codes are needed.