Setright

EBC discs are good. BUT stay away from EBC pads!! I run Mintex pads on EBC discs and cannot complain - only about wear...20k miles and the pads are worn thin. But I like my brakes to stop the car, not last long and fade instead!

Does the car have a factory sunroof? (aka moonroof) There's drain pipes in the A and C pillars, these connect up with hoses behind the rear wheel wells...check for unhooked hoses and blockages. Could be the rearwindow seal. Hope not though! Electric antenna on the rear flank? This has a drain hose too.

An offset of 50mm will do fine. I know, because that is what I ran on mine! I would however suggest going for 195/60 tyres, since this tread width best matches the 6.5 inch rim. Just for info, I have moved these rims with me onto my Imp, and they work fine here too. Smaller offsets will put the wheels too far out of the wheel-well, causing rubbing and seriously unbalanced loading on the wheel bearings.

First of all: Even with faithful servicing, a head gasket is likely to fail around 10 ten years or 120k miles. Even in the supremely reliable EJ22. When one of my HG's went, in my Gen1 Legacy, the coolant overflow tank did just that, overfilled and leaked fluid out of the system. It can be tricky to trace, since it tends to escape as vapour. This could be giving the smell in the heater system. OR, the cabin heat exchanger might be leaking. I don't think so, because this would not cause the overflow tank to fill up. Of course, before ripping the heads off, you want to make sure there is no air in the cooling system. Search around the site, the procedure has been described many times...

Depends on how long and how and how hard. Listen for grumbles and feel for uneven assistance. You might want to "bleed" air out of the system. With the car level - preferably on lose ground, like gravel - swing from full lock on one side, to the other side. Hold the steering wheel all the way over for a few seconds. You should be able to hear the pump recycle the fluid at full lock, a kind of whirring whoosing noise :-)

Holy smokes! My driving style is very defensive: Keep a safe distance, brake early, never pressure other drivers. HOWEVER! On lonely roads the car gets thorough workout and I eat pads up in 20k miles. Admittedly, I do run slotted discs, which tend to wear pads more quickly.

Erm, well I ....is that a Gen 4 Legacy or Gen 3? The newest, ie. Gen 4, has an integrated stereo, and I expect you would be better off installing a decent amplifier and some high-end speakers than messing with the head unit.

Why you little...!

Okay, I know most of you will think I am getting too pedantic, but anyway: OEM means Original Equipment Manufacturer. Like Bosch is an OEM for wipers on Mercedes, or Valeo on Citroen, or Kyb on Subaru struts. OE means Original Equipment. Take note, for OE can be used instead of the word "stock" when we refer using standard, genuine Subaru parts. "I am planning to fit OEM wheels" is a meaningless statement.

It's soooooo annoying! BMW/Audi drivers must be afraid of the dark. In fact, I would suggest that they must feeling a little inadequate in the trouser-department too, why else buy such a poseur's car?

Well, nine months ain't long, but has somebody scratched the paint on the rims? Looks like someone a bit ham-fisted got excited with a lug wrench :-) Sand and re-paint the rims before it grows.

I believe Josh got a three-wire sensor when he replaced his. The idea is that the third wire provides a good ground connection, which the two-wire setup lacks - it grounds through the exhaust pipes. If you are replacing it, it might be a good idea to go for that type.

www.geocities.com/vik2r Look under Sube....

No one seems to deliver the same quality anymore. I ain't just talking about "They don't make 'em like they used to" nostalgia, either. I expect that the consumers are to blame, at least over on this side of the pond, since we have become obessed with low price goods. People just don't want to pay for quality anymore - but then they still expect to get it! VW's look great, have very tasty interiors but the money spent here has been saved on engineering the oily bits underneath. It's a question of percieved quality. The sound of a Mercedes door shutting has been carefully engineered to to sound just-so. Nevermind that the real quality has gone down the drain.

Stock setup allows you turn on the front fogs with only the "parking" lights on. For some odd reason you need the dipped beam on to switch on the rear fogs. I don't think fog lights should be used as a supplement, but rather as an alternative to dipped/full beam. Anyone who has encountered thick fog, at night, on unfamiliar roads will agree with me :-) In my most humble opinion!

I would strongly recommend using same size front and back. Also, 18 inches is a bit OTT. You will lose all sidewall compliance, go for some 17 inchers, wrapped in 215/40 tyres. 7.5 inch wide rims should be enough. Going to 18 is for looks only :-)

Don't throw away the snorkus! You need the pipe that runs from the filter box into the fender! Cut it off just below where it has turned and points straight down. Attach a velocity stack and viola: http://www.geocities.com/vik2r/Sube/intake1.jpg I tried a number of things on my Legacy and this gave the absolute best throttle response and pure, race-bred intake howl.

Oh yeah, btw, my Legacy BC7 would deposit sprinkler fuild in the car if the window was open... Haven't had this happen in my Imp yet

Bushbasher! It's the rails that the roof runs on. Remove them, add new sealant underneath and screw them back in. Presto! Unless of course the pillar drain pipes are blocked..

That's certainly gonna work if you do it right, but I have to ask: WHY? The fog lights are there to help you see better in low-lying clouds. The idea is for them to cast light low down, hopefully below the water droplets and let you see the road markings near the front of the car, so that you can stay on the road and out of the woods. If you are in a situation where you will need full beam lighting - dark, clear weather - then the fogs will be DETRIMENTAL to your long range vision. All the light they cast on the road imediately in front of the car will help to close your pupils and make objects in the distance impossible to see. Why on earth would you want to do this??? Swap the fogs for some driving lights!

Glad to hear that you're OK. Sorry to say that I think your Subie has sacrificed his/her life to save yours. Roof damage equals write-off where I come from. The strength is gone, and the car will never be the same again. What a grand shame!!

If the coolant is blackish brown, there is a head gasket leak! Check your oil to see if it's emulsifying. Don't drive the car in this condition, your oil won't be able to perform it's job, and you will damage your engine. Replace the HG's

When you let off the gas pedal, the momentary increase in intake manifold pressure is supposed to open the wastegate. Check it to see if it's sticking, the passage/valve is blocked or the hose that returns it to the intake is blocked.

Due to the boxer configuration, Sube cooling systems can be tricky to purge of air. The procedure has been described a number of times by many of us on this board. Time for a search!

Well a K&N will help, but you really ought to modify the actual intake aswell/first. Something involving a 60mm pipe drawing cool air from the fender cavity through a "velocity stack".