Setright

Congratulations! Thanks for posting, always nice to have some positive threads going

NEGATIVE battery lead please!

Return them. It's best to use the right parts, especially for ignition!

I would bleed all four to absolutely sure.

BE VERY WARY of the wheel offset. Subaru rims have a high offset, and you want something in the +45-50mm range for 17x7 rims. Close as possible to 50mm. Less than that are you going to run into wheel arch rubbing problems and your steering and handling will not be optimal.

It could be the new discs that are either badly balanced, or possibly just not centered 100%

Low oil presure is a sure fire way of killing an engine quick. You have to replace the seals! That light is to be taken seriously. The work involved isn't rocket science, but one or two things are easier if you have the right tools - like removing the crank pulley. Are you confident in DIY?

Sorted, mate Nice work!

The "canister purge solenoid" can give hard starting, but usually just rough running when cold. It draws fumes from the fuel tank into a charcoal canister. From here the solenoid valve is supposed to let the fumes into the engine when it's warm. If it feeds the fumes to a cold engine the mixture gets over rich and causes problems. Not least if it creates to great a vacuum in the fuel tank, since that makes life hard for the fuel pump! Start by replacing the solenoid, disconnect the battery for at least 30 mins to reset the CEL.

You could try freeing up the lifter with a thinner oil, like 5W-30 and new Subaru oil filter. I had one tick in similar Legacy three times in 70k miles. It might well cure itself. Don't graze your knuckles before you are sure it's really stuck. The work is pretty straight forward. Once you have the rocker off (three 10mm bolts) it'll all become clear. CEL wires are black and green. Check out www.surrealmirage.com for a full set of instructions. All four connecters will be up there somewhere. I had a hard time finding my black ones... The most likely CEL culprit, if all seems to run fine, is the "Canister purge solenoid". Just below the nearside intake manifold piping lives a little valve that is used to direct fumes from the fuel tank into the engine. This often sticks with age and triggers the CEL.

What? Why didn't he tell you all that initially? Seems suspect to me. WALK AWAY! Accident damage is not necessarily something to worry about. If the work has been done right, there's no risk. HOWEVER, in this case I would not buy the car.

Darwin's theory is not complete. There some holes in it. Those are the ones the people blinded by faith like to point out. Most of the holes are just gaps in time, since we don't have traces of all the species that ever lived on this planet. Personally, I find it likely that a collective devine energy binds us all together, but that has never stopped us from developing along the lines of Darwin's natural selection.

That certainly sounds like a sticking brake piston. Often, you can just remove the pads and "jog" the offending piston back and forth a few times to loosen it up. You need a g-clamp for this. Regular use of the car wil stop it happening again. Fitting new pads is a good idea. IF the piston is badly rusted it might scratch the cylinder and cause a slow leak of brake fluid. This means servicing or replacing BOTH calipers.

Or coolant leaking into the combustion chamber?

WHAT? The Legacy built on some long standing Subaru traits: Permanent 4WD Real, if basic, off-roading ability Boxer engine Frameless windows Weak synchromesh on 3rd gear in the manual transmission ;-) Turbocharging Oh yeah, and absolutely impeccable build quality !! I grant you that it did break traditions with: Sluggish acceleration Rust prone bodies Stodgy handling

That's a tricky question, who knows for sure? One thing is certain, later models have an extra catalytic converter in the mid-pipe. In the bulge that is just a resonator on the early models.

I would start saving for a new head. However, I doubt you will have a catastrophic leak. The bolt may not seal fully, but coolant will seep out at fairly slow rate. Meaning that a watchful eye will detect it in time to top-up the coolant. My main worry would be how much blockage the bolt is doing inside the water jacket? Has the flow of coolant been reduced far enough to pose cooling problems? Of course, if it has, then the main damage would be warpage to an already busted cylinder head. Back to the top :-(

Leave the car standing overnight. In the morning turn the key to the "ON" position and listen for the sound of your fuel pump. It'll only be present for a short while and is a kind of whirring noise that rises in pitch. That's the pump pumping pressure into the fuel rails. It's a good idea to pause the key here whenever you start the engine, lets the fuel pressure rise and the electronics wake up Of course, something must be up if your car has started acting different.

Actually, a lot of Sube mechs prefer to drop the transmission instead of hoisting the engine. If you have good luck at the car you can decide for yourself. Engine means a lot different hoses and wires and things need careful marking so that you can get it back together. Tranny means that the axles have to come out. However, this work is far more simple. Even if there is "more" to do. Either way the exhaust must be removed at the heads. Make sure you soak the bolts in WD-40 or similar penetrating oil a long time before going to work. Overnight if possible. The main concern is a bolt that either turns out of the head or heaven-forbid breaks in the head.

Off hand, I wouldn't think you have done any serious damage. It all depends on how long the engine was running too hot and the quality of the engine oil that was trying to protect it. The most likely is warped heads, which will need milling anyway if you replace the head gaskets. For sure you want one the two helpful people above to have a look before you commit such a huge amount of money!

Exactly how long does the engine crank before firing? The colder the engine, the longer the crank time. I believe Subaru have done this on purpose since it builds oil pressure before starting.

Water pump can be trusted for two timing belts. So I would elect to replace it at your mileage. Oil pump is strong enough to keep running. But as Subiegal pointed out, the seals between it and the engine block would be good to replace.

Rear pads and discs must be replaced.

Your dad better cough up the cash for a set of new discs and pads. If the stock pads have been toasted, they won't work well from now on.

It's for real. Roughly two years ago he was featured in the European Subaru magazine. He was nearing 600k km. The beauty was that he had only owned the car for a week and came back to the dealer wanting a 12,500km service....they couldn't believe it!