Setright

Yep, must get the code read out.

Thank the Lord that the days of Pendulum Axles are over!

Torque: I don't know the exact values for the Sube tranny, but what size are the bolts? Generally, 6mm thread diameter goes up to ca. 12Nm 8mm would handle ca. 25Nm - 20Nm in aluminium I reckon that you should apply a thin silicone bead, like 3mm, and let it dry for about 20 minutes. Tighten the pan in steps, and criss cross around the center to get it to load up evenly. Your main concern is to avoid pressing the silicone bead into the pan getting little bits of it contaminating your transmission.

And: An anlignment on your car model must be all four. Every time.

That's a lot of oil, any signs of it burning? Or is it leaking out of the engine block? AWD is not to be tampered with.

Okay, inner edge wear would normally be caused by too much negative camber. However, since it's "feathered" away, that indicates scrubbing, which is the result of a faulty toe adjustment. The tyre in question is being dragged. It must be. So, the alignment must be out. Straighten the steering wheel. Get a long length of thick string and strap it around all four wheels in a horizontal plane. Ideally, over the center of the wheels, but bumpers get in the way and you'll have to do it lower down. This method should be accurate enough to expose the wonky wheel. That'll be the one where the string is gaping at either the front or rear of the tyre. Please try this before you spend any more money on new parts

I doubt the HG's would be failed at 9800 miles. Sounds more like your rad cap failed to hold pressure. Still, it does suck that your car had to be kicked out of the family.

Sounds like a toe adjustment problem. Get an alignment done.

Could it be grease slipping out through a cracked CV boot? (The flexible rubber boot on either end of the driveshafts aka. "rod")

You should really try re-torquing the oil pump bolts. That requires removal of the plastic timing belt covers, which means the crank pulley has to come off. Prior to that the aux drive belts must be removed. I don't like the thought of losing oil pressure at the pump.

Oil leak from HG on an EJ22 is pretty unlikely. But please take note: Poster says he replaced the rocker cover gaskets four months ago! I would second the motion to degrease the engine and then check again to be sure of the source. Camshaft seal sounds likely.

Or they spilled some oil on the exhaust pipe during a transmission or diff oil change. It's hard not too, the oil will burn off and stop smelling after a few days.

Okay, this may be a long shot, but I suppose you are ready to try anything. The ignition "coil" that lives on top of the intake manifold and the "igniter" that lives on the firewall, right in the middle. These have not yet been replaced. Both are easy to do. Disconnect the negative battery terminal first. These components are heat sensivitve. The engine room gets hot with the car standing still, on the move it cools slighty due to the air flowing through it. Of course, both of these should also present problems further up the rev range, like occasional hesitation, but it would be worth replacing them.

Surely a higher tyre will fit fine. Just DO NOT fit a wider tyre, that will mess the handling up. A larger tyre will lengthen your gearing, meaning less torque output at the wheels for a given engine speed. Your speedo will also read lower. Stay within 5-10% diameter and you'll be fine.

Accept my most humble gratitude (Setright is a name I STOLE from an English motoring journalist)

You are very welcome

You can't get the oil pump off. It slides off the crankshaft, which is tricky with the pulley still on it

http://www.pressinformation.com/subaru.html

Surely stock diameter would require 205/50R16 ?? In my opinion thats what looks best, 17 and 18 get too big and make the brakes look puny. The added weight of most larger rims will also be negative for handling. 16 inchers with an inch of lowering...my next project, right after I win the lottery ;-)

You could tighten it a bit, but it doesn't sound like it's very loose. Better off trying to clean the belt and the wheels. Moisture will always cause them to squeal - I often get it after a carwash, but only for few seconds.

If you decide to do the coolant: Do a board search for "Coolant replacement" I have shared my knowledge of this slighty tricky procedure. Main focus is avoiding air in the system. And don't forget the cabin heater hoses! I would suggest moving to a new car if you can afford it. The money you pour into the 1995 Impreza now will never come back. Sell it while it still runs well and rust hasn't become visible.

Potenza 720 is an outstanding tyre in rain. Haven't tried it on snow, that's where I find that Blizzak LM18's shine. They also grip well in wet conditions, which is often a weak point in winter tyres. I would recommend that you switch to running different tyres for the "two" seasons.

I like Cookie's idea. Let the transmission drink the brand new fluid as it purges the old stuff out! You'd need someone on hand to switch off the engine before you empty bottle of new fluid and get air the system.

If you find that the system doesn't seem to want to loose the air, I would recommend fitting a new Genuine Subaru radiator cap. The spring and seals on the cap may be old and tired.

Search for "coolant replacement" without the bubbles. However, since you have already filled the system. Do as mentioned above. Park on a slope facing upward, 5 degrees is plenty. Let the engine COOL. Open the rad cap and bleeder if you have you one. Start the engine and idle until the fluid starts rising in the rad cap filler neck. Now, switch OFF the engine again. Hopefully, this will produce a "burb" at the cap filler neck and the level will drop again. Idle until it rises again, close the bleeder and cap. Run the engine speed up to around 2000rpm for about ten seconds, either by hand in the engine or use the throttle as normal. Go for a gentle drive, and park the car level when you get back. Make sure the overflow bottle is filled to at least "max" - due to heat, it may be higher, perfectly normal. Check the level in the overflow again after a long cooling period - over six hours - adjust as needed. (Cabin heat on or off is irrelevant, there is always flow in the heater core.)