Setright

Haynes. And a good general automotive repair book to cross-reference!

Stick with Mobil1 - i have strayed once or twice and not been happy. My Mobil1 history stretches 15 years back.

Well, my first off hand advice is to avoid stainless steel. It has a tendency to "ring" and masks the boxer engine burble. It just becomes a low pitch drone. That means Blitz, Ninja, Afterburner are off the list. All too loud. I have a Subaru licensed, street legal sport muffler on my Impreza and it sounds fabulous. Quite at idle, distant drone at steady speed around town, and very hushed at 3500rpm=80mph for a relaxed motorway cruise. It burbles very nicely and recently got a big thumbs up from a BMW mechanic at a gas station. It's mild steel, but powder coated to keep rust away. You would of course have to find out if you local Subaru dealer can source one from Europe. I would also trust Prodrive to make a nice sounding silencer.

Well, the best thing to do is to get ALL FOUR WHEELS up off the ground. There does seem to be agreement here! A manual transmission car can also be towed with all four on the ground, for unlimited distance, since it's just like coasting in neutral anyway. An auto would trash itself within 60 miles if towed with all four on the ground, or indeed just two. (But just two would trash it much faster) So, get it all four wheels up!

First: I must agree with Cougar. The knock sensor is constantly listening the engine as the cylinders fire. An ECU signal to send a pulse to a spark plug that is not followed by a "bang" is what triggers the misfire code. sct: Replacing the knock sensor is easy. You need a good socket wrench with an extension to reach past the intake manifold. Search the forum for pictures and more good advice on this. Fuel filter and regulator require you to relieve the pressure before removing the hoses. Again, search and ye shall find loads of info on this. I would suggest the disconnected fuel pump (or relay) because it will empty the system and gives the least spill.

Fuel mixture leaning out over 3000rpm is a symptom of a drop in fuel pressure. The regulator lives on the end of the fuel rail on the passenger side. Replace this. I would also suggest replacing the knock sensor if it has the grey connector - old type. (New is white)

This fix worked me, too. HOWEVER! Be careful, the new bolt will get HOT since it's metal.

Brakes are not the place to pinch pennies. Pads must be genuine or better (Mintex, Ferodo). Discs the same.

I think it may be time to start looking around the alternator. Maybe something else was disturbed during the install? Any wires pulled out? Hoses disconnected?

The present traffic is the other way across the sound. Danes are moving to Malmoe and commuting for work in Copenhagen. And NO, parts aren't easier over here. Subaru didn't have a distributor in DK until a year ago, after a three break, during which we sourced parts from Sweden! I had a mis-matched alternator installed on a Legacy once, it did some odd things. Get the mech to find you the correct one. Mine was a rebuilt job, that cost around 1200 DK kr.

Okay, it's got a boxer engine, but it doesn't have frameless doors? It's not a Subaru. Just like the Cayenne is not a Porsche.

Hejsan! The wrong type of alternator will give you some weird problems. Are any of the dashboard warning lights glowing dimly? Does the charge wire that attaches to the alternator fit well? Did the cable need to be stretched to reach? Have you measured the charge voltage?

It may not be worth it, unless you have upped the engine power considerably. I run standard size grooved discs with Mintex M1144 brake pads. They stop the car very quickly indeed, and have stood up to trackday use. What size are your present brakes? Impreza's came with 260mm and either single pot caliper (like mine) or dual pot. Some lucky owners have two pots and 277mm discs. If you really want to upgrade your brakes, replacing the single pot with the dual pot is quite easy. No adapters needed. Better feel and response are the benefits. Fitting bigger discs will mean new caliper or at least a caliper adapter. Also, make sure the wheels will clear the caliper! And yes, the 277mm discs have a bigger swept area.

Why all this K&N fear? I hear more and more about it, but it's rarely substaintiated. I ran a K&N for 70k miles in an old Legacy and it didn't foul the MAF. Cleaned it once, and re-oiled. No problems. Running it in my Impreza hasn't given rise to any problems either. Perhaps the real problem is when people fit open cone filters and they forget to support them. This can shake the MAF to pieces, but is hardly the oil's fault.

Change it! Genuine Sube part is quite good, but I personally like the K&N. Lots of cash to saved in the long run - especially here in overtaxed Denmark.

Yep, start by replacing the front one. ECU uses this info to trim mixture. See if you can get a three wire sensor. The extra wire is ground.

Yep, as circular a bead as possible, spanning the inner third of the mounting surface. (Don't forget a new o-ring) Haynes says 48-60 Inch pounds of torque on the mounting bolts. 60 in/lbs , isn't that about 5 ft/lbs ? Yep , doesn't sound like much, but the o-ring is holding in the "systolic" pressure, right? The "diastolic" pressure is kept in by the rtv.

Is it flashing at steady, sort of "heartbeat" rate? If so, get under the dash and dissconnect the green and black connectors that are hiding near the steering column. Single wire in each. These are used for diagnosis and should not be connected under normal circumstances. It is likely that when the mech removed the old alarm system, they found two "disconnected wires" and put 'em together. The continuous flash is the signal for "No errors"

If the body and that stuff is in good condition, as mentioned, it would be a good buy. The engine problem could be easy to fix, but even if it isn't, dropping in a rebuilt one - or DIY rebuild - would be worth it. Run it for a while and sell at a profit :-)

The water pump is a thin gasket and RTV, no question. According to "Haynes" the oil pump is RTV only. I would tend to agree. Just make sure you only apply it in the right area, and NOT too much, it will fall off and clog an oil passage.

So, I assume that you are going fast enough to get up these steep hills in such high gears. Anything less than 55mph in 5th gear is hopeless if want to even think about climbing a hill. It sounds like fuel delivery problem. You should replace the fuel filter - easy, cheap - and run a fuel system cleaner with a tankfull of gas.

1.50 a liter over here :-(

Unless you want more crisp turn-in and the tail to let go first. In which case an alignment will be needed. Simple really, factory spec is very conservative on the negative camber up front. Just -0.5 degrees will transform the handling, and still be safe enough. Even sudden hard braking in tight bends doesn't result in any waywardness.

COuld be they are just too "clean" and need a workout. Find a quiet road and brake hard a few times. Make sure you cruise gently for a few miles afterward to cool the brakes down again.

Above cylinder 3 there is plug for inserting an oil pressure sending unit. Tapping into this should give a good indication of running pressure. There is a belief that "dry cranking" these engines is essential after an oil change. Disconnect crank sensor to stop ignition, and crank until the oil light goes out. I don't do this, but I always brim the oil filter prior to screwing it on. I have heard and read people who insist that failure to dry crank leads to failed rod bearings. Sounds a little bit extreme to me. Northwet is certainly on to something, a narrowed/blocked passage would lead to starvation and premature failure. If the engine is still in pieces, make sure all the galleries are free from debris or sealant/gasket. Liquid gasket on the water or oil pump can leak into the oil galleries and cause problems. What above oil level? A rebuilt engine could consume a large amount of oil during running-in, failure to top off would also cause starvation. Overfilling could cause foaming, but the EJ engine series isn't particularly susceptible to this due to the plates and baffles in the sump and below the crankshaft. www.surrealmirage.com should be able to supply the original EJ technical papers, including oil flow diagrams.