Setright

Well, I think it may just be normal. The overflow bottle has little hole in it to allow air to travel in and out. Some of the coolant vapour is escaping through there and causing the smell. It's worst on my car after a coolant change. Which I think supports my theory. Keep an eye on the coolant level, if there is a leak, it will drop enough for you to notice within a few days of driving. But don't panic if the level fluctuates or indeed drops slighlty over a month - some of the coolant just evaporates out. My girlfriend can't smell it. Maybe some of us are just too sensitive. She doesn't here any of the rattles either. Wish it were me, motoring would be far less stressful :-)

Nice

Not sure how you wanna convert but I recently squeezed out 14 kilometers per liter on a long trip through Sweden. Hmm, 1.609 km to one mile, and how big is your US Gallon? 3.9 liters? I guess that only gives me 34 mpg.

Nice theory, it might work. Make sure you don't tell the dealer about redlining a cold engine.

Aha, a grey import. I understand the problem now. When you're over here, keep an eye out for a blue mica 1999 Impreza "Sport". That'll be me A cinch really, if I am parked you'll notice the discrete Nurburgring sticker on my trunk lid, and if moving you should hear screeching

I am with rcoaster. Plus, if you must have it in reverse: If you find the brakes are "dragging" just lift the clutch pedal up a smidgeon and depress it again - keeping your foot of the brake pedal.

Yeah, as Blitz says you need to check for pressure. You can do a simple test from the comfort of your driving seat: Engine at normal temp. Switch off. Wait a second, turn the key back to ON, but don't start the engine. Watch the temp needle, if it moves all the way back up to normal operating temp, you have a problem. If the system is air pocket free and at the correct pressure the needle will move up to a point just below normal operating temp.

Living in Lund, eh? I am just across the strait in Copenhagen! I can't understand that it would easier to source parts from the states? My local dealer gets all his parts from the distributor, which is in Sweden Anyway, next time you have trouble we should consider meeting up. I have plenty of good tools and experience.

I would chose NGK, double platinium - or Iridium. Either is "expensive" like around $12...per piece, but they will last. A set of NGK "V groove" will also last 30k miles, but of course if you want something that lasts longer...

Yes, just to add to the consensus: Copper anti sieze and roughly 15ftlbs. I have stopped using my torque qrench on plugs cause off access problems on my IMpreza - old Legacy was better. I tighten with an eight inch handle and stop when i feel "resistance". Don't force them. Of course if they are too loose they cannot dissappate the heat.

Are you sure? On my admittedly older 1990 EJ22 is was facing the front and could pulled out directly. Be aware that there are two sensors, one for the dash, one for the ECU. Even so, the should live right next to eachother.

When it does the clicking again have some else try to start it while you tap the start motor softly with a hammer. If it starts, then the motor or the contacts are bad. Replaced three times or not.

Sure. There would be no real problems. The viscosity ratings are the same, so flow is not affected. The main advantage would the increase in dispersants found in the Diesel specific oil. They help keep the Diesel soot in suspension in the oil and therefore ferry it to the filter. The only disadvantange I can think of is fuel dilution of the oil. Perhaps the Diesel oil does NOT have additives to combat the attack of petrol. Therefore, a long drain interval - over 6k miles - might affect the lubrication performance of the Diesel oil. I have considered this myself and I will be running some Mobil Delvac through my engine soon, just to keep it clean. I'll bet it's a better and safer way than using an agressive aftermarket oil additive.

Yeah, with the moly coating still intact, the slap sounds like gurgling in the cabin heater. My EJ20 was doing this when I got it at 40k miles, now a further 40k miles down the line it's pure metallic slap. If I have people in the car when the engine is cold I like to say "Hey, have you heard my Impreza Diesel?" and open the throttle a bit.

A 7-series Beemer is going to be easy to beat for most fast, small cars. The BM is just to big, heavy, and intimidating to throw around corners. The WRX handling is so forgiving that it would easy to stay within the limits and still leave the BM behind. In snow, there is NO CONTEST. In a standing start the BMW would either spin it's rear wheels and get nowhere, or with the TSC on it would just crawl forward. The WRX would fly down the road. WRX vs. BMW M3 - that's more tricky.

Yes sir, you must replace the bolts with brand spanking new ones! Don't go through a HG without doing so, you'll be setting yourself up for a new HG replacement...

If the car moves forward after the engine is switched off, you are experiencing some serious transmission "wind-up". The auto box is not working right anymore. Search the board for "Duty solenoid" to read more on this..

Thanks Blitz! Of course, I must point out that I don't thrash a cold engine, no matter how many miles. In the latest Subes it's easy too, no more than half-throttle or 4000rpm before the pistons stop SLAPPING!

Come on! Piston ring seating takes place within the first few hundred revolutions a newly honed engine makes. Not thousands of miles. The oil can't get in the way of high points left behind the by the stones of the honing machine. These have a tiny surface area and the pressure is too great for any oil to hang around.

Yes, for sure you want to have them add some UV tracer to the oil. The gearbox can leak from anywhere along it's length since it's tow halves screwn together. Is it engine or gear oil? Gear oil burning off has a VERY unpleasant smell. Engine oil tends to smell, but not so that it makes you wince.

Yes, for sure you want to have them add some UV tracer to the oil. The gearbox can leak from anywhere along it's length since it's tow halves screwn together. Is it engine or gear oil? Gear oil burning off has a VERY unpleasant smell. Engine oil tends to smell, but not so that it makes you wince.

First off: Congratulations! Since selling my EJ22 powered Subaru, I have missed that engine. The big deal about the EJ22 is that everything is so well designed and in balance that it just runs smooth and trouble free. Oil and coolant passages have really been thought about, and it pays off in the long run. All the way up to 300k miles. As with any car, make sure there is oil, coolant, and fuel in it. If you don't have the owners book, get a hold of one. If offers good sound advice on keeping your Subaru running. As mentioned already, stick with Genuine Subaru oil, air and fuel filters to keep things sweet. NGK "V Groove" are the spark plug of choice. Happy motoring...

Cougar? Surely the crank angle sensor is right there at the front and middle of the engine, easy to unplug, unbolt and replace??

Geniune Subaru filters are very good and not too expensive in my opinion. Oil and filter should last 6000 miles easily if you are a running a good quality oil. 3k changes are only for cars that see trackdays often. Air filter is between the same 6k or up to 18k if you rarely experience dust. Both should be done once a year, whatever the mileage.

Knichol, I would second your dual tip idea. The main advantage is that it can move as much gas a single big-diameter, but with less motorway drone. I also find that it can enhance the burble, since the gas fluctuatues from one exit pipe to the other during part throttle operations.