Setright

Hmm, could just be that the ABS start-up sequence and test takes longer, and the light shines during it. Not sure, you need to have a look behind the wheels, there might be something blocking the sensors. Could be animals, like rats, mice, birds...building stuff inside your wheels??

Don't bother with anti-sieze on the plugs, just torque them down right. That means 40Nm - which is what? 30ft lbs

Or find a two foot long hose that will just slip inside the dipstick hole.

Yes, as Texan says, it is likely that a frozen/rusted u-joint would produce some binding issues. A u-joint doesn't have a constant angular velocity on the output and this creates a kangaroo like motion if it is rotated to far - or some part of it is stuck. The joint is in free view underneath the car. By the way, my car occasionally shudders a wheel. Usually at low speed in parking lots. Often while running over some form of debris or manhole cover. Just a bit of 4WD wind-up undoing itself.

I think what Haynes wants to avoid is a cam spring pushing a camshaft when the belt is off. At TDC the internals will stay put.

Start by removing the end of the intake. It should unbolt at the front and just pull/click out of the tubing. Might give enough space.

Yep, sounds normal. But it does seem to really hold onto the revs when cold. Tap the gas and it jumps up but takes ages to get back down.

Either buy (from Sube) or fabricate a tool that can hold onto the sprocket. USe the holes in the sprocket.

LOL

Such diplomacy! Nice. However, trucks do have a whole bunch of extra mirrors to minimize blind spots. Over here, trucks have a nasty habit of taking out cyclists in town traffic because they just can't see them in their mirrors. Mind you, when I ride I keep clear of any trucks that turning. Common sense really. I agree that looking back isn't optimal during forward travel, but a quick glance next to you before moving into the space can save an accident. Just do it quick. Race drivers are for me, not the last word in safety.

Mirrors are only for giving you a general picture. ALWAYS turn your head when changing lanes or merging.

Well, if you already fitted the new cap, then yes, it sounds like a bad headgasket :-(

Yep, it's drive and brake by wire :-) Get your dealer to upload the latest firmware to the ECU. Throttle response thing is common.

Welcome aboard, DIY'ers are what we like here! Off hand: Engine oil, coolant, transmission and diff oils. Filters for air, fuel and engine oil. Spark plugs, PCV valve and hoses. Search on those as key words and I think you'll have plenty to read up on :-)

Yep, stick with genuine parts for this one. That pump is run by the cambelt and that means a bad pump bearing can lead to total engine failure. Not worth the risk.

Sorry to rain on your parade, but why use any additive at all? What do you want from the oil? I am sure we can help you find one that works without adding extras.

I am still working on what is the best oil for Sube gearboxes. Seems to me the real solution would be for the Sube engineers to admit their mistake and beef up the synchro on third gear. If you go for a synthetic oil, try to get hold of that rates 75W-85 or 75W-80. These are thinner and are easier for the synchro rings to press aside, so they can get surface contact and actual match gear speeds. A straight 80W will also do.

Glad it's back to normal. Is that the new 2.0 liter? With 160bhp? By the way, it's normal for Subaru's to crank for longer when cold before firing. The idea is to get oil circulating before the engine fires. Quite cool, really. The McLaren F1 does this too :-) Of course, 8-10 seconds is excessive!

Yep, lowering just gives more camber. All that nonsense about lower center of gravity is...well...nonsense! In fact, lowering a strut suspended car like the Impreza will lower the roll center progressively more than the C-of-G and that would increase body roll. That's why the lowering springs need to be harder. Double wishbone all round would be ideal - like Honda used to do. By the way, a 30mm drop will give around -1.0 degree extra camber and that means massive improvements in cornering grip. (Take note that camber will affect braking in a negative manner, but you need to go further than -3.0 to feel the difference.)

.....................

Ok, sounds like I will have to start getting ready to be very jealous of your ride Try the front camber adjustment, BEFORE you fit a stiffer rear sway bar. The difference will amaze you! You might find that more camber and a stiffer sway bar will make the rear end hard to control. It'll feel great on turn-in and when you go round bends you know well, but you risk some serious OH!versteer if you have to brake hard mid-corner due to traffic or other obstructions. I expect that harder end links on the stock sway bars will provide enough stiffness to give accurate handling, without getting it sideways all the time

Wow Texan, I get mentioned in the topic heading. Thanks To the point: The JJ is the shape of the rim edge where the tyre mounts. Should fit most tyres. The rubbing issue is also dependant on tyre size. Avoid the temptation to go for very wide tyres. Stick with a rim/tyre ratio around 80-90% and you will get the best handling, too. Offhand I would rate a 205mm wide tyre as spot on for a 7 inch rim, but you might have to stretch to 215mm to conserve the right overall diameter, without resorting to high profile tyres. What's the standard size? If you drive like me - stick near the posted limits, but fast around corners - your tyre wear will BENEFIT from a little added negative camber up front. Turn-in will also improve and make the steering feel more responsive. Be aware that this does change the grip balance and while that may eliminate understeer, it will introduce oversteer. Just how I like it! Not knowing the stock angles, I would guess they are -0.25 front and -1.0 rear. Adjusting the front to -0.5 will give you all that you need, without making the handling dangerous. If you have rubbing issues with the tyres, a little more camber can tilt them inward enough to avoid contact. HOWEVER, this probably means getting new camber bolts for front and rear. If you increase the front to -1.0 you need at least -1.5 on the rear to keep things safe. The 48mm offset means the entire wheel will move OUT of the wheel-well by 7mm. I would prefer 50mm, but you'll most likely be fine with 48.

Reading the numbers, the K&N filters only 3% worse for a flow gain of 27%. According to the filtration and restriction graphs.

Well, being a cynical man, always sceptical of "the latest research" and other such heresay, I am inclined to say: BALONEY! Those graphs are clearly designed to put some of the filters in a bad light. Notice how the filtration graph doesn't have the axes starting at zero? The percent wise small difference between AC and K&N is hugely exagerated! Please people, don't be fooled by such blatant manipulation. (Same goes for K&N's blurb..)

Rad cap! Honestly, this is how many headgasket failures start - not just for the EJ25. Rad cap stops holding pressure due to a weak spring or cracked seals and some coolant is allowed to expand out. Causing the spill at the overflow. Under load, the lack of pressure in the cooling system allows local boiling and can give rise to the funny temp needle behaviour you are experiencing. Replace the rad cap, fast! Leave the worrying for later. *My car's cap went south when I did the same. 600 miles into Germany and I discovered an overflowed overflow bottle at a highway gas station! DOH! The rad hoses were soft even with the engine running. Still a local dealer provided a new rad cap and all was well.