Setright

The rubber seal on the glass plate isn't supposed to be 100% water tight. The roof "cavity" has four drain pipes to take care of that. All four corners, the pipes run inside the roof pillars. The most likely cause of the drip is a failing silicone seal underneath the sunroof rail. Open the roof and look down from above, you should see what I mean. Loosen the nuts a bit, squeeze some silicone in underneath the rail..and all should be well. Try searching the site for "moonroof" and "leak" if you need more info :-)

Sure, a bit of copper antiseize on the threads. Electroplated / galvanised bolts will rust, due to the temp stress.

Back already! I would strongly recommend that you buy some stainless steel bolts, nuts, and washers to fit the new exhaust. Looks tidy, and if you get tired of the noise, swapping back to the original is a cinch. I do this for long trips :-) Even if you choose to ignore that advice, PLEASE get a hold of this type of gasket: Its all metal, does NOT need any Firegum to seal, and the best part is that it wont cause warping of the flanges. The normal gasket has the metal ring, but the rest is soft material and this allows the ends of the flanges to pull in and distort. If that makes sense? For the same reason - avoid distortion - resist the temptation to torque higher than 48Nm. It doesn´t seem like much, but its plenty. There might be a tiny leak when you first start the engine, but once you run the car and get the exhaust hot, the gasket will mold into shape. Aren´t you glad some has been down this road before you??? :-)

48Nm. More info coming....

94 Legacy, EJ22 engine, that should have hydraulic tappets..

Please keep an eye on the coolant for a while. Mixing types can lead to problems with the stuff thickening up. If you rinsed/flushed well, you should be okay. Plat plugs should work fine. Make sure you get double plat, though. The ignition system fires a blank in the opposite direction during the exhaust stroke.

Yep, Rain-X is the business. I agree with Smpol about the AC thing.

COuld just be an air pocket in the water pump. Search the board for "coolant replacement" and look for without the bubbles. The big secret is filling the system via the upper hose.

Agreed. Assuming that's 100k miles. All the belt followers and the tensioner. You should also replace the crank and cam seals. Water pump is a very good investment.

Yeah, the fan is going haywire or maybe the thermostatically controlled switch that activates. It should have one plugged into the radiator. Removing the engine will aid your work - and keep your back straight! - but removing the exhaust stud bolts from the heads will probably be a real pain in the you-know-what. Soak in WD-40 24hrs ahead if possible. I would fear that at least one exhaust stud will break or take the threads out the head in the process. Therefore, HG replacement would be a good idea, 'cause you'll need to send the heads for machining of threads/studs on the exhaust ports....along with the cylinder mating surface. It's an EJ22 right? It's worth the work! I still miss mine

Hmm, let's see... loud knocking sound and smoke from underneath the bonnet.... I don't want to rain on your parade, but this is not a vehicle you want to choose for a long drive. This needs fixing.

Yes, due to tolerance in production, some pistons will slap even when warm. These have been replaced in some engines. You don't want to pay for that, or for the short block - thats and engine bottom end, without heads on it. Still, that dealer does seem to have a high moral standard, so you should probably take their advice seriously. Back to the sound: Can you make a recording? It might help, but sometimes the microphone doesn't pick up the correct sounds. At idle you will be able to hear the fuel injectors tick, but only with the hood open. That sound is very "sharp" and short. It's the electromagnets working. Ticking, audible from the cabin, could also be valve tappets. I guess you need to remove one of the valve covers and have a look at the assemblies. Not all Subaru engines have hydraulic lifters. The solid lifters need adjustment at 100,000km :-)

Yeah, DR would've done the trick I think. Looking at the photo again, even though the belly is free, those tyres are dug deep into that soft sand. The resistance was too great. Your clutch is the only thing that might have suffered, but not massively.

Yes, first off, you'r driving style makes a HUGE difference. When Opel was launching the ECOtec engines in the Vectra they invited a group of journalist to drive economically. The same car on the same route managed 40mpg in the hands of one careful driver and bottomed out at 23mpg - lead foot? The fuel stats from the spec sheets can only be used to compare different cars, real world motoring is not the same as when the cars are strapped to a dyno.

My Owners Manual says that you can put chains on, but only on the front wheels. Bear in mind that mine is a manual transmission. Handling on packed snow is very entertaining, the AWD tends to send excess power to the rear wheels and you get the fun of RWD but without the feeling that the car is going to spin around suddenly. On the other hand, ff you are careful with the throttle and run some good winter tyres, you'll barely notice the conditions. Acceleration is almost as good as on dry tarmac, so be careful, because you can gain a lot of speed without thinking about it...

Well, yes, but you need to be sure that you don't get Xenon lights - an option on the WRX.

I like to use soft rubber cubes, like the "feet" on some chairs and machines. Cut em down to the right height, squeeze in - and wait for the next cabin rattle to show!

One large batch of knock sensors had a tendency to crack their casings. Not good for accuracy!

Have a look in the catalogue on www.mintex.co.uk Good blueprints of all the pads.

And next time maybe you should try letting air out of the tyres, lowering to maybe 18-20 psi to get a bigger footprint... Does your car not have dual-range AWD? All stationwagons are DR in Europe. Oh, and one final idea, was the car in first gear? Trying to pull away in 3rd would give the same kind of symptoms - even on solid ground.

I doubt sand has gotten into the transmission. I agree with the others that the engine was probably overwhelmed. By the way, a manual has NO AWD COMPUTER! What were people drinking, absynthe?

You should still have some adjustment left on the handbrake lever itself, inside the cabin. The cable tension can be set. If you have already reached the limits of adjustment, maybe you need to triple-check your assembly, it could mounted wrong. If everything is still OK, try going for a drive and dragging the handbrake to wear the brake shoes a little bit.

The thing I like to remind about: The pins that are pressed into the joints on the gearbox side are conical. Make sure you beat them out backwards. They will go the other way, but it takes a lot of pounding. (Look for marks on the pins, bash out from the opposite end)

Bad timing, since I was also caught up in the bomb scare blockage around Osterport. What are the odds?

Hmm, will it fit in my Impreza? Talk about the last word in "tuning"! Imagine the kudos at the local meets :-)