Setright

Okay, I would say that you need to replace pads and discs as sets. Replacing only the pads is a half-measure and it will perform as such. You don't have to fit brand new discs, just get the old ones resurfaced. I will offer some extra advice that hasn't been covered: Make sure you fit the black shims on the brake pads. These are rubber coated and stop squeal very effectively. Also, compress the entire caliper before you remove anything and upon assembly fit the inside brake pad first. Move the caliper into it's normal postion, clamp over the caliper and disc to force the piston back again (it will slide out a bit while you're working). This makes it easy to fit the second brake pad. I find that a brand new set of pads always has trouble squeezing in.

The mesh is not snapped in. If you pull it out, the pins holding them in will break. You could do this and then glue them back in after you replace the speakers. Or, the "correct" way: Remove the bench part of the rear seat by undoing two bolts at the front of it and then unhooking it at the back. This gives access to the bolts holding in the backrest. This also needs to come out. Then you remove the plastic cladding that is bolted and snapped onto the C-pillar. These have the seatbelts passing through them, and you can just extend the belt and rest the plastic on the ground outside the car. By now, the rear shelf should be possible to wiggle out. Installation is the reverse of removal :-)

Could be the brake pad backing plates are small. Has the dealer fitted the "anti-rattle clips", ie. those metal clips that snap onto the caliper and form the rails for the pads to slide in? At one stage the backing plates were a bit to large and this caused binding which led to uneven brake pad wear and brake dragging. Dealers were instructed to file away the ends of the backing plates. Only a tiny amount. If someone has done this to a backing plate twice, then it might be small enough to rattle?

Either the catalyst has been poisoned, the mixture is too rich, one of the cylinder banks is misfiring, or most likely the O2 sensors are fouled.

Hmm, the ones I have seen at the dealer didn't seem that bad. Have you noticed the exhaust system on the Volvo XC90? The pipes are routed underneath the diff, making them the lowest point on the car. Dangling in two rubber hangers ready to get pulled off when the car goes off-road.

If it squeaks, you need to apply some high temp grease to the clutch spring fingers. You need a long thin brush to do this through the same hole that the release fork lives in.

Scoobaroo: Mobil 1 5W-50 will easily flow at low temperatures and won't stress the oil pump or filter by-pass valve. I do agree that 15W-50 might cause problems at low temperatures.

Well, I just switched from M1 0W-40 to my summer M1 5W-50 and the slap is louder, but still goes away. Temps are just over freezing in the morning this time of year. Piston skirts: Yes, extending the skirt would cause collision with the crankshaft counter weights. In a boxer, these counter weights are small, but still there. Most pistons have been "notched" or shaped around the weights for the last 20- odd years. Not sure why Subaru insists on such short skirts, maybe it's a sixties revival thing ;-)

The MAF doesn't like filter oil or vibrations. A panel K&N might lose some oil and coat the MAF, but it won't shake it to pieces. I reckon my suggestions is cheaper, sounds at least as good, and since it's undectable when you pop the hood, it's also safe under scrutiny from Police and vehicle inspectors.

Indeed brusbrother, this bodes well for the future of humankind!

Okay, the Porsche thing: This speaks highly of the boxer engine format. If Porsche uses it, it must have an advantage or two. Say what you like, but Porsche engineers always push to the limits of present technology, and they're sticking with a boxer. (This high praise does NOT apply to that horrible thing they call Cayenne.) Next up, most cars are FWD. Most cars try to cram the engine into a tight space so that they can have more room for passengers. Even a four cylinder boxer does not lend itself well to these demands. However, a boxer does lend itself well to sitting longitudinally in a less than compact car where is can easily send power to the rear wheels too! The low height also means that when a pedestrian gets in the way, the bonnet can take some of the blow without the ped getting wacked hard by the engine.

'91 Legacy: Leave the air filter box where it is, but remove the silencer that lives in the fender. This will leave a round hole with a rubber grommet in the air filter box. Insert into this a short lenght of pipe with a "bell mouth" / velocity stack / intake trumpet on the other end. This will provide a smooth flow into the air filter box, from the fender cavity. Here's what it looks like on my previous car: http://geocities.com/vik2r/Sube/intake2.jpg Photo is taken from ahead of the front wheel, with the fender liner moved aside temporarily. This will make your car sound absolutely excellent! The trumpet is essential, because otherwise the sound will be rough and uncultured. IMHO.

Disconnecting the battery erases the ECU memory, I believe. If the mech replaced the O2 sensor without resetting the ECU, the the code would still be present and the CE light on. I think your new sensors are OK, and you just finished the mechs work when you disconnected the battery ;-)

My views: Outback isn't worth it. 2.5L four is plenty powerful. Present model engines should be without weakness. The newer engines are just as good, except for a purely cosmetic cold morning piston slap - slightly Diesel like rattle during the first few minutes. Clutch problem was judder, as mentioned, and shouldn't be present on models before 1997 and after 2003. Like anything else Subarus aren't perfect. However, they have a lot of character and are easy to grow found of.

Hello???? '91Subaru, your Legacy left the factory with a cold air intake. So, CHIP, your primary analysis is incorrect. Inside the fender there lives an intake silencer. You can remove this and add a short intake trumpet from the air filter housing, so that you still draw air from the fender cavity. The sound improves vastly, and the throttle response is sharpened, but HP gains are minimal.

Not quite on topic, but anyway: I noticed my 1990 Legacy light did what Gnuman describes, it would come on and off as the level lowered and the gas sloshed around. In my 2000 Impreza the light is "latched" and stays on once it has been activated.

Why is synthetic STILL under suspiscion? Why do most people believe that synthetic means less friction? Synthetic just means that's is built to a specific quality from the bottom up. The Castrol TAF-X that I use to very good effect in my gearbox has friction "designed in" to allow weak synchro rings to work faster. I use Syntrax in the rear diff, since it doesn't need friction, just plain lubrication. As I see it, synthetics have two main advangtages: Their characteristics are specifically programmed and they have the potential to last longer than a mineral equivalent.

Bridgestone Potenza 720. I have racked up about 30k miles on these very grippy and predictable tyres. Then I took the car for a track day.... With normal use, I would expect mileage in excess of 40k. This is really very good indeed, considering the grip this tyres offers - also in wet weather.

The EJ22 is all it's hyped up to be. Only downside is that it could have been more powerful. But that's probably why it's so reliable, it's not stressed too far.

Blitz: Mmmmmm, BEER!

WHy not get a new set of pads, leave the pads themselves in the box, but fit the new "clips" or "sliders"??

Top quality analysis, Blitz!

Well, JVC has served me well a few times, but I think any respectable brand - Sony, Pioneer, Alpine - will do. Just stay away from the cheap end, and consider fitting some better speakers. I am very impressed with JBL's Power Series. Even in 5 inch size they deliver a well balanced sound, and plenty of volume for little input power. I have these in the parcel shelf and they work a treat. Subs are not for me either. By the way, I found that my 2000 model Impreza had the standard DIN connecters and my JVC slotted straight in. I did have to redo the wiring on my old 1990 Legacy though.

Or maybe some more ground clearance?

I second 777's motion. Two silencers might give something in terms of looks, for some people. If you mean running two entirely separate systems from each head, then you will likely suffer power loss across the rev range. MAYBE, you would gain a tiny amount of power at max revs. Maybe.