Setright

Green or blue. NOT red/orange. (Only exception would be the stuff Motul makes for motorcycles, which is yellow, but based on the same ingredients as the green and blue. It works really well, and I would recommend it. Especially since your location doesn't suggest strong frosty winters. It's proportionally more water than most pre-mixed coolants which is good for both heat capacity and transfer)

I agree. Up to 2002 the two pot calipers used were the same type on that list above. The caliper is the same, but as mentioned above, the support bracket is not the same - they vary with the pad type. The newer two-pots are possibly the same - like on 2004-07 Foresters, but I am not certain.

Yeah, it'll take you home. The joint is already done for, limp home.

Before you go through too much trouble: I had success in a stopping a similar leak on my Impreza sedan by simply tightening the five nuts that hold in the taillights. A couple were very loose.

Yep, M8 bolts will help to push off a disc. I assume you know that the caliper support bracket has to come off too

100ft/lbs equates to 130Nm. A little too tight for me - and some alloys don't like it - but hardly dangerous. Tighter isn't always better though.

Seriously: Refill with Synpower. You will be very surprised. All those problems you describe were present in the 20 year old XT Turbo we bought recently. Synpower has cured it.

They work. Really well. I am using the Bosch version on my Impreza.

The rear diff takes 0.8 liters, if totally drained. The front "transaxle", as I like to call it since the diff and gearbox are the same unit (assumming manual shift) will swallow 3.5 liters. In my experience, the transaxle takes 3.3 liters to fill up, and the diff around 0.7 since you cannot drain all the old oil out. That means you need to purchase 4 liters.

You'll be glad you did

Centering: If one lug is tightened to max torque before the others are even in contact (workshop, mech doesn't care) the other lugs will not be able to center the wheel, since it's already stuck in position. Yes, we are now talking about very small changes, but you don't need measuring equipment to prove the difference. At high speed, the wheel shimmy will cause vibrations. My way is the sure-fire way to vibration free high-speed cruising.

Valvoline Synpower....since I began using this oil in my gearbox (manual) the mound of metal shavings on the drain plug magnet has stopped forming. That's proof enough for me that the oil is protecting my differential gears. Same goes for the rear diff. The GL-3/4/5 rating is the big secret. Not many shelf oils span all three. And no, those ratings are not mutually exclusive. I am not claiming that Scotty's cocktail is without result, but perhaps it's more hassle than necessary. On a purely personal level, I prefer to use pure, well designed fluids and not mix them up with additives.

I have been a through a few different upgrades. Mintex make some very nice brake pads. The newest "Xtreme" series is perfect for those who want more "power". Higher friction co-efficient, and takes more heat. I have even used these pads on Trackdays and they were strong and reliable. DBA make very good discs, so I would rate your purchase as a very good deciscion. EBC pads have disappointed me in the past, but they may be making fine products now. Green stuff will not survive the cross over to a track. And Andyjo is on the ball: Running in is VERY important.

I would recommend avoiding any cocktails, or magical blends. Valvoline Synpower 75w-90 is the absolute best. Motul Motylgear 75w-90 comes second. Nothing fills the third place, since only the two above can cure the 2. and 3. gear KERRunches. Even on 20 year old Alcyones On my list of experince: Quakerstate 75W. Castrol TAF-X / Syntorq 75W-90 Both of those above are good in newer/low mileage transmissions. Redline 75W-90 Shell 75W-80 Mobilube 75W-90 Castrol Syntrax 75W-90 ATF fluid is a NO-GO!

Yeah, I'd reckon those nuts were over tightened. Quite a bit, too, since it cracked the locking nuts. On those rare occasions that I leave my car at a dealership I remove the related locking nuts to avoid having them damaged. I only torque to 100Nm, which is what?...70ft/lbs. Personally, I lift the wheels up to re-torque. The main problem being that if you don't, you will not get the wheels centered. If the shop tightens one at a time to full "air-gun" torque, the wheel will not be 100% centered. I ramp the torque up. Finger tight, 20Nm, 60Nm, 100Nm. Stops those +100mph shimmies

Stick with emery cloth. Dremel will probably remove too much material. Scratches that run length wise are the worst.

avk...it was fine coming out, rust grew later

It could still be a leaf in your vent system. Turning off the blower, doesn't stop air flowing, the car's motion forces air in..

So....no one thinks this is even slightly impressive? Happy Holidays

Hi all! It would appear that my drain/fill with demin water/drive/drain/fill ritual when chaning coolant has payed off. Just replaced the cambelt at 120K miles and along with it, the waterpump. The engine block was equally clean inside: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v684/Setright/pump_impeller.jpg :)

Outgassing / degassing coming soon to a trackday near you. Not a street problem, but it does happen.

SH-AWD can only favour single rear wheels. It would still do very well in that test.

Slotted. For sure. Keeps the pad surface clean and ready for the next hard stop. Also allows gases to escape without causing fade. Drilled are more likely to crack. EBC makes good rotors -but DO NOT use their pads.

Valvoline "Synpower" is highest on my list. Followed only by Motul "Motylgear". In the long run, nothing else comes close to offering fast crunch-free shifts. Synpower has recently cured the 2nd and 3rd gear crunch in our newly purchased XT Turbo - 1988 Model Year!

A rock could smash a side window. The windscreen doesn't shatter because it's laminated.