xman

Got the Brat seats back from recovering them. We retained the original cloth insert and put new vinyl all around. Also welded the clutch cable bracket at the pedal end and installed a new clutch cable. Now to scour several years worth of accumulated brake dust and grime off the white wheels, paint the plastic bumpers and mirrors and give it it a nice wash & wax.

The sensor switch is bolted to the floor under the console by the hi-lo lever. Mine had the little plastic piece break off the switch when I was messing with the shifter a while ago, now the 4WD light stays on all the time. I'm pretty sure I saw the entire part on Rockauto.com for $12.03 http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1267725,parttype,10775

Bringing this one back from the dead. The bracket for the pedal end of the clutch cable broke on my 86 Brat. I see that I could get an 84+ pedal support, but do you think it would hold if I rewelded the original one? Maybe a little improved gusseting could make it hold up or is it totally a lost cause? I have access to any equipment to do the job right. thanks.

thanks. the clip I posted above is working fine. I also noticed, while I was installing that clip, that the hill holder cable has a similar clip. Since my hill holder is disabled, I could have just borrowed the clip from that cable and gone on my way. Now I know where I have a spare readily at hand under the hood should I ever need it. Living in SoCal, there are not convenient junkyards around like the rest of the civilized world, and I would have thought it a common item in auto parts stores as well, but every one I went into didn't have it and the parts monkeys couldn't find it in their systems. I'm glad this thread is here now to help others who come across the same issue I had.

I got myself a hairpin retainer clip that I will try until I get the real deal. like this: I'll swap the one in the engine bay down to the pedal cause I know that will be more solid under there where I can't see it well to check on it. And I'll put the wire clip in the engine bay where I can more easily reach it and keep an eye on it.

Thanks for the advice on how to pull it out, I knew that, the notes on the photo are not mine. As for pull a parts, they are not so common here in SoCal and to find an 80's Subaru is even less common. I was hoping there was an alternative or someone would have one I could buy. Dealerships here are not so helpful, their systems don't go back far enough to help me. But I'll keep trying.

It's not just a C-clip, since it is missing, I'm not 100% what it looks like, but it does the same function as this clip which is at the gearbox side of the same cable. I'm ASSuming it could look the same since the washers and rubber grommet thingys look the same on both ends of the cable. I borrowed this pic from another thread by Moosens, but it might help. Again it is NOT the clip in the picture, it is on the other end where the cable attaches to the bedal box. Thanks.

So I found that the stiffness of my clutch cable is because the retaining clip on the pedal end is missing. Any advice on where to get another or what I can use as a substitute? I was thinking of using a brake line retainer clip but I'm not sure if it is the same size. USMB to the rescue?

Great idea, I'll put them in a little bag back there. I'm also going to get some plastic covers for the seatbelt reels to help keep them dry now that I have them rehabbed.

Installed some OEM jumpseats in the Brat. Had to weld the mount, but everything is legal for passengers (as far as I know). Now I will get a couple of pairs of goggles.

Has anyone ever figured out what the threads are on the pipe fitting on the head? I'll gladly cut & hammer shut as GD suggests, but a plug in there of the right size would be nice too.

Thanks, I did. That picture was taken at a stopping point before I got the straight connector I needed to lengthen the passenger side hose. I found that SharkBite brand 3/4" PEX connectors in the plumbing aisle at Home Depot are a great, cheap option for this.

Went from this: To this in the Brat: No fancy dyno and laptop needed to tune this baby!!!

You can try getting a replacement in the 'Help' brand replacement generic parts at the local auto parts store. the package has an assortment of sizes and shapes. I found one that for in my 93 impreza. Good luck.

If you go on the forums at DirtyImpreza.com there are some members that live in that area. You might be able to work out a deal with them to borrow their garage and tools to do the job.

Rod knock has nothing to do with what the knock sensor is looking for and generally won't throw a code. The knock sensor is looking for pre-ignition (detonation) in the cylinder, not bearings knocking around. Sure a knocking rod might be detected by the knock sensor, but it just pull timing which reduces power and fuel economy. You will save a ton of time if you can find someone local to listen to the engine and let you know what they think is going on, diagnosing noises over teh internet is generally very time consuming and frustrating for everyone involved. Good luck, but it sounds like you have high hopes for a "project".

I've always seen them under the dash also. Driver's side, same place an aftermarket alarm usually gets stuffed.

Went after the slow oil leak in the Brat. Replaced the valve cover gaskets, pulled the oil pump off and replaced the gasket, however it is still leaking. So I will need either a new one or rebuild this one so I stop leaving a puddle where ever I park it. Luckily a rebuild kit is under $4 from Rockauto. However the screws holding the two parts of the pump together are notoriously hard to get out without stripping the heads.... Decisions decisions...

There's no reason you can't pull people out with your Forester. Get a tow strap.

Got the Brat to pass California smog test. Now to clear all the DMV paperwork, AAA couldn't do it for me, so I have to make an appointment and go to a DMV office.

Sorry, I didn't see here where it stated what his budget, fabrication skills or engine was, just what the best transmission was, so I provided my opinion.

Absolute best is a USDM STi with custom tuned DCCD controller. But, what is your budget?

Put a properly rebuilt Hitachi on the Brat, hooked up the lines and fired it up. Adjusted the idle and took it for a ride. Runs great, smooth and good power. Doesn't seem rich, should pass smog, fingers crossed. A positive day with the ole Brat for a change.

Great topic, good info. How about swapping front seats into EA81s, specifically Brats?

I have all the OEM orifices, just don't know where to hook them up. You gave me the insight I think I needed. Plugging them off is my backup plan. Much appreciated.