xman

Thanks, That's not my exact car, but the carb is identical. I have a non-feedback CA emissions car. Knowing that those are metering ports that need to see vacuum will help. Jerry got me a known good carb, so I will put that on and hook it up to vacuum to see how it goes.

I need some help on where a couple lines go from the carb. I can see that #1 goes to A, the bowl vent vacuum valve. Can someone help tell me where #2 & #3 go please? It's probably really easy, but I want to get this right. Thanks!!

I read your other posts and think that the reason you have water in the valve cover is the same reason you have it on top of the carb. I don't think it is a carb gasket issue, not ruling it out completely, but I think you have something else much more critical going on. I would suspect that the headgasket repair was not done correctly and the coolant is being pushed into the crankcase and evetually out the head, into the valve cover area and through the vent tube onto the air filter and top of the carb. Without seeing it, one can never be sure, but given your overheating symptoms and description of milkshake in the valve cover and water dripping from vent hose, that would be my suspicion. Hope you can get it fixed, sorry to hear about the bind this is putting you in. Wish there was someone close enough to help you with the problem.

I would suggest the EJ255 from a: 06+ WRX, 04+ FXT, 03+ Leggie Turbo, or turbo Baja. 2.5 liters, factory turbo, costs less than the EJ257 STi engine, but nearly as good. Yes you'll need the turbo crossmember for the front. An OEM ECU with a tune would be nice. Don't forget the cooling system to go with it. Or you could just find a turbo Baja and sell your ride and not worry about the trouble of doing what the factory already did.

I would try to get a pry bar in there between the axle and the tab if you can and bend it out some that way, just becareful of the boot. If there is not room, then pull everything off and use a 2x4 to help brace against the rear tab and bend it closer to straight. You will likely need to take it to an alignment shop after you get everything together anyway and tell them what happened, they can get it up on an alignment machine and "massage" it within specs so you don't have any funky toe issues in the back. You seem up to the task given that you are going to replace the parts. Worst case scenario is replacing the entire rear crossmember, which involves removing a bunch more bolts, that by the looks of things are probably rusted in place pretty well. 2 lateral links, a hub and possibly a new axle nut are what I would start with. Hopefully the mounting tabs on the strut are not bent too much or cracked where they are welded to the tube. Best of luck.

If they are not bent, no, removal not required. If bent, then who knows? Rear axles don't have roll pins, so they are even easier to pull out, but require removal of the lateral links from the hub, which can be a huge pain if the long bolt at the bottom of the hub has fused itself to the bushings in the hub, which happens more often than not on that vintage car. At that point a torch or sawzall is your friend cause it sounds like you need to replace the hub anyway. If the lateral links are bent, just cut them. Disassembly is fast and fun if you are going to throw the parts away anyhow. Here is a really good pictorial writeup of how to get the lateral links out. http://www.dirtyimpreza.com/forums/showthread.php?p=122909

I would have to see it to recommend a course of action, but if necessary you need to remove the axle, then choose your weapon: pry bar, baby sledge etc. The steel is not really that heavy, you'd be surprised what you can do with a little applied force. Also, you might be able to use the bent link as a lever to bend it back also, once you disconnect it from the hub.

This is for a 2005, all the parts are still the same. That piece is called the rear crossmember, or rear subframe. The tubular pieces that attach to it are lateral links, the third member that bolts to the bottom of the hub is called the transverse link. http://www.autopartslib.com/search/subaru+2000+impreza+rear+suspension+pictures Yes, you should be able to just bend or pound the mounting ear back into position, do it all the time for rally cars. Don't bother heating it or you might melt stuff and need to repaint it or rust will get to it. next time hit the other side, never crash on the driver side, always the codriver side

It's probably totally fine. You've probably never shifted a car with an actual rod and bushing linkage. Brand "H" and brand "T" all have cable shifters which provide virtually no direct feedback and disconnect the driver from the vehicle to a high degree. What you will feel with the Subaru is positive engagement of the drive dogs everytime you shift, so that you know it is in gear. You also get more side to side play, as you experienced because the physical linkages need that play to pivot and slide. The feel can be tightened up with stiffer bushings, as noted, but it sounds like a completely normal situation for that vintage Subaru.

1 running : 2 not running '86 Brat had Hitachi carb issues '93 Impreza is being stripped down for the next rally car.

The kit can be made up to your specs, but my kit included: - reworked transmission support crossmember - new transmission mounts attached to crossmember - reworked 4 speed shifter to work with the 5 speed - reworked 4WD actuator rod - spacers for starter I also got a clutch plate and flywheel that fit the 5 speed, this was extra and Jerry happened to have them for me. I then took my one piece driveshaft (i have a Brat) to a local shop and had it lengthened. Just give Jerry a PM and then a phone call, you couldn't deal with a nicer guy who will help you out. It's a million times better than trying to go it alone.

Jerry's prices can't be beaten. I just got my 5sp D/R into my 86 Brat with Jerry's help and could not have imagined doing it myself. I mean I could have but it would have cost me more in materials and lots of time to do it. Good luck and watch out for the rual range actuator rod, it rotates in the housing and if it is 180° off it won't shift out of 4WD, ask me how I know

Thanks!, I rally ss often as I can, which is not often enough. I'm trying to build a 4 door GC next, those extra doors make it much easier to work on and access the space in the back but the coupe may continue a couple more races in 2011.

This is me.

It runs, it drives. It was the 4WD actuator rod was turned 180 degrees. I pulled the driveshaft, unhooked the 4WD shift lever and turned the actuator rod and it pushed in and out of the gearbox like it should. Put it all back together and it drives. Still a bit of torque bind, but i think I can work that out. I hope. Time to get it smogged and start driving it to determine if it is reliable enough to daily drive, then ensure it can go all the way out and back to a rally for recce in 2011. Thanks for the help everyone.

Brilliant!! I was lying under there on Saturday contemplating trying that, but have to pull the driveshaft for clearance to get my big hands up there to pull out the bolt I put in there when I lost the OEM pin. I will give it a try for sure. Thanks.

I'll give all that a try again with my fingers crossed before I yank the transmission back out. Thanks.

yeah, tried "slight pressure" tried "really friggin yanking on it" too no luck :-\

Yeah, I already tried relieving the pressure to see if it was torque bind, it's not. I spoke to Jerry and will be pulling the transmission back out to try a couple things before I start opening it up to get in deeper. Probably not terminal, but will take some more labor on my part. Thanks.

Guys, i need your help. I did a 5 speed swap into my 86 Brat. Everything fit up right with Jerry's kit. Now the transmission seems to be stuck in 4wd. The 4wd shift lever will not move. The rod will not slide in and out of the transmission. The rod is stuck in the position completely inside the transmission and it is definitely in 4wd. Is this terminal and i should look for another transmission, or can i get this one freed up somehow? Thanks.

Typically the ports go on top and the canister is to the bottom. Gravity then helps keep debris from flowing through as easily.

reinstalled the front sway bar and new magnaflow exhaust manifold/cat and fired it up for a few seconds. Need an M16x1.5 plastic drain plug to fill the hole in the side of the radiator so I can run it and tune the carb. Making real progress, once the correct axles are here it might move under its own power, we shall see if the 5 speed D/R I got is any good....

reinstalled the hitachi to the engine, tried to get all the vacuum and emission hoses into the right spots. Got a new radiator cap, ready to fire it up once the new Magnaflow header shows up tomorrow. Fingers crossed that it runs with minimal amounts of troubleshooting and replacing rubber lines. Then two new front axles and she should drive.

I got tired of getting the wrong gaskets for my hitachi, so I cut my own from a piece of gasket paper. Then reassembled the 2 barrel and got it ready to reinstall. I'll do that tomorrow night and cross my fingers that it will work.

1. You can open the trans case, but don't depend on using that transmission again, ever. IF you can it is a lucky bonus. Find a used replacement and swap it as a whole. 2. Input shaft bearing should not be loose on the shaft. 3. Keep the clutch disk, unless it is shattered into a million pieces or worn down tot he rivets it is still fine and can be reused with your pressure plate and flywheel without any resurfacing. Transmission swaps are not that hard if you swap the case as a whole, don't try opening it up and messing with the smelly bits unless you know what you are doing or are willing to put in the time, effort and money to learn as you go.