firstsubi

And I had the timing belt done with new water pump about 50k miles ago and asked them to change out cam and crank seal while they were doing it and they told me the seals look pristine and no need to change them. They said let it go another 100k until the timing belt needs done again. I was mad when they told me cam seal because I told them I wanted them changed out. I didn’t want to be on the hook for a $600 seal job that didn’t fix the problem if I want going to have them do the head work

They said when they put the new seal in it still leaked and because it wouldn’t seal that’s why I need a new head. The hg are original.. they quoted me 10 hours of labor and just over 1000 for parts so that’s how they got to the 2200

I won’t pay if they don’t give me the old one. How am I to know they did any work otherwise!?

I agree! This service manager also tried to tell me my strut tower was bent and that “any trained eye could see that it’s bent” and I told him no it’s not. Took it somewhere else and it wasn’t bent. I just take my car there because they give me a loaner and I’ve never had a problem with their work but this seems to be a foul diagnosis costing me $2200

No accident. Motor is fine I was driving down the road and it started leaking oil but I pulled over before the oil light even came on.. I was thinking that too about making sure it’s messed up since they know I want to have it now. But he told me it didn’t wobble at idle but when you give it gas it’s off?? I’ll put up pictures when I get the head back and take it somewhere else as well!

The car should be done Monday and they better still have the head for me. I told the service manager I wanted it. The car runs fine and was quiet and never threw code for anything on me in the 2 years I’ve had it. I baby that thing!

I don’t even see how that’s legal. I asked for the old head back. It’ll be the last time they work on the car!!

I have a 2010 legacy 2.5i m/t 167k miles, car never leaked a drop of oil until last Friday it started leaking bad! and smoking.. I pulled over to see what was going on, it was still running fine and no lights came on. Couldn’t see where oil was leaking from so decided to have it towed to the dealership. They said I was a quart low (I just did oil change 3 days prior) so it leaked a quart in about 30 min. They told me they topped it off and added Uv dye, let it idle for 20-30 checked it and couldn’t find any leak, told me to pick it up and drive it for a week and bring it back so they could check again.... picked it up got 2 min down the road and it’s smoking and leaking again so I took it back and within 5 min of them getting it back they are able to tell me it’s the driver side cam seal. ($600) I said alright fix it, then they call me the next day and tell me that I need a whole new head because the cam is “out of round” $2200. The car ran fine with no lights on... has anyone ever seen a n/a Subaru bend a camshaft and wear out the head? I just can’t believe it but told them to fix it if that’s what it needs. ????

The crank pully was starting to “separate” so I had it replaced ($435). The reason I was looking at it was because there was a squeaking sound like a bad idler pulley so I was trying to pinpoint the noise.

Is it normal that my crank pulley moves out about half inch while under load?

So take the belt off and swing the compressor out of the way?

I bought a normal 13/16 deep socket (maybe the sockets too deep) but I can’t get it with just the socket and an extension or an extension with a swivel.. its really just the bracket for the a/c in the way. Guess I’ll swing it out of the way. I can get the socket on but then I run out of room.

Just bought a 90 loyale last week and want to change the plugs.l, I got the three easy ones but the one in the front right is terribly hard to get at. The ac compressor is blocking my access and I was wondering if there is a truck to getting to it. Do I really need to remove the ac compressor? Thanks!

Yes the domed side goes towards you, the newer ones are marked with "out" but I just picked up two sets of wheel hub hardware and the one nut was marked on the right side but the other said "out" on what was really supposed to be "in, so always just look for the convex and put it towards you

OK. As long as the hole has something in it stopping the oil from blowing out I should be ok? I'm looking to get a newer car within the next month or so. It's an ea82. With a Helicoil isn't it necessary for me to drill the hole out?

I was under the car going over nuts and bolts to check tightness and after doing the oil pan I moved to the 10mm bolts on the bottom of the "valve cover" (I believe that's what it is lol) and the one was loose. Upon trying to tighten it it just spun and when I touched and and pulled out on it it just slid out.. I tried to put it back in but it doesn't get tight. I put a tap in there to try to reap it but the tap just false around like there is nothing even in there?? I'm lost please help. Right now I put jb quick steel over the bolt to try and hold it in place until I can figure this out. It's up again the frame too so it would be next to impossible to drill and tap...

So there is supposed to be grease on the cone washer where it meets the hub? And also where the domed washer meets the "centerpiece" or cone washer as well? I thought this was supposed to be a clean mating surface?

I've never seen that intake manifold for ea82?

Thank you!

When replacing the hub are new bearings required?

I thoroughly enjoyed reading that!, and enjoy your enthusiasm for the loyale! I'm glad people still treasure these cars. I live on the east coast so there aren't many around at all. But I'm driving my third one now. Everybody gives me such a hard time about it being my daily driver and my compassion for it but they've just never owned one to know why it's addicting. And when is it ever really dead?

Could be the battery wires as well.. as I first started reading I was thinking CTS (coolant temp sensor), but it does sound electrical. Good luck

Thanks for the advise and does anyone have a wheel hub for a loyale they would be willing to sell?

Got over to look at it this afternoon and the driver side spindle just spins. So I've got a bad hub. Is that a sign that something else is wrong, or most likely just bad cone washer and nut or not torqued right?

So if I let the clutch out and it doesn't stall somethings broken.., pop hood, if the axels are spinning (while still in gear not going anywhere) it's a bad hub? And if they aren't it's internal to the transmission? Is that correct?