ghost

Aw well thats too bad... =[ How much work we talking about for the wiring in that swap? I really would love to keep this '87 GL I have for a long time but if the engine pops and its too hard to EJ maybe Ill just sell it and try to find a clean non turbo... For the topic maker, how much did he pay for the thing? If it was cheap enough, i dont see an issue if it needs work in the future. Drive it til it blows apart then see what you can do. (either keep for parts, part out, fix with better stuff). If it was expensive, that sucks... More so if it needs a bunch of work.

If the engine does need massive work, how hard is it to swap a previously EA82T to EJ22 though(instead of him going back to the non turbo)? Im sort of in the same boat. My EA82T runs pretty good still but for future reference I would like to know what im in for if i plan to EJ swap it. Would it be harder than swapping back to the EA82(Im just curious of the difficulty factor for each swap)?

Forget where i saw this but its basically what was mentioned above: - Clean off busted bolt in block to smooth. - Spray with penetrating oil and let sit a bit. - Weld a washer over top of the busted bolt (make sure the inner hole is smaller than the bolt your trying to remove or it could weld onto block instead) - Weld a nut onto the washer. - Spray more oil onto it and tap the nut to try and get it worked into the threads - Remove.

If i was to ever do a crazy engine swap into something likema subaru, my first two ideas would be: 3800 Buick Supercharged engine from the Regal/Grand Prix/etc or a Suzuki Hayabusa engine. Both would be nuts, neither are hard to find really.

Check out vehicles like old Isuzu Troopers or first gen 4Runners. I got my inclinometer cluster from one of those types of vehicles.

Well i guess "miss" is a bad word. It hesitates and bucks every now and then. The worst ive done to it is close to 4k rpm shifts but i dont think over the course of a tank i'll cause any real damage as long as im careful right? (i know around the 4-5k rpm mark is the normal shift point for these anyway) Heck my sister stupidly ran her 1990 Eclipse GSX on 87 octane for 3 years and nothing bad happened to that thing and it had double the power.

Went today for the first fill up of my new 87 turbo GL. Took 35 bucks from almost empty. Started driving away before I realized I put 87 octane in it. When i first got it i was under the impression the EA82T requires Premium correct? All EA82's has that recommended i think (obviously more important on the turbo one). Oh well, should be fine to go through a tank of 87 right? Then Ill switch to 91 or 93 or whatever the standard is around, im not sure. I did notice while Ive been driving it a bit so far the engine seems to have a miss right when the turbo reaches boost, Im going to attribute that almost entirely to the lower fuel octane. Would i be mostly correct in that assumption?

Broke mine in a bit. Took it for the longest drive ive done since i got it. Ran good the whole time. Also ordered new hatch lift supports and arranged my tools(my hydraulic jack, tow strap AND 25 ft jumper cables fit nicely in the floor compartment ). Also put my 15" sub in the back, just waiting to find an install kit to put in one of my spare radios and wire up the amp.

Yea, my GL has a supposed around 40k mile JDM engine in it and runs good still but im already keeping money tucked away for the second it pops to put an EJ in it =] Make a post on the Wanted board here and someone would have a gasket set for you. Subaru people are pack rats, they keep everything that can be of use!!

Thanks very much brysawn! I was searching for studs and did see they had 2 different parts for front and rear. You're saying i need the ones with the longer spline thread right? Otherwise, due to the thinness of the hub compared to the Toyota hub they go in, the wheels wouldn't get tight by not having enough threads correct? Yea, I think the studs are about $1.80 or $2 depending on which part is the correct one. Now all i have to do is find some 4Runner or Yota Truck lug nuts. That shouldnt be too hard, but that im only speculating. The tires that are going on it are going to be 205/65/R15's General Altimax HP's off my moms non running Maxima. They should fit fine if you're running 205/75's.

From the lifted Soob 2010 topic I found this one, owned by brysawn: 2" homemade lift 6-lug hubs using toyota studs toyota 4runner sr5 wheels General grabber at2 in 205/75/15 http://i32.tinypic.com/30m8srb.jpg Thats pretty much the exact look i want and the wheels are coincidentally the exact ones i found locally(but they may prove troublesome due to needed both new studs and lug nuts)

Ah, i forgot. EA82, its an an 87 GL turbo. If i could get away with 2" and no cutting that would be awesome. For the set of 205/65/R15 I assume id be ok with a 2" lift (they measure out to about 25.5") but moving up to my 205/75/R15 i may hit some rub.

Im looking around a bit and trying to find some answer but i just generally see that for 27" tires, the common is 2" with some cutting possibly required or 3" with a tight fit correct? I hope to get some generic steel wheels that are 6 lug. Most likely 15"x7" with 3.5 inch backspacing. I know those are super common. I used to have a lifted Geo Tracker and i have 2 sets of tires here around that size (they were the stock ones, i had 235/75/R15 on the Tracker). One set is from my Tracker and i have a set of brand new General Altimax HP's off my moms old junk Maxima (they're lower profile though, 205/65/R15) I know most decent A/T tires come in the 205/75 for a good price too, so i think thats what ill shoot for when i lift my rig. Im aiming for a no cut solution since my Subaru is in pretty fantastic shape in terms of rust and damage to it. Im thinking maybe a full 3" lift to get all the extra goodies put on (like, not just the strut spacers, have a complete kit dropping crossmembers and everything else.) That is, unless a 2" will work ok for those tires.

My moms 98 Outback wagon had a similar problem. My buddy found out the clutch fork literally warped itself and snapped joints in 2 places. When you pushed the clutch in, the fork would go slightly left and in. Not enough to engage the clutch, but enough to provide slight resistance. We had no clue what was going on until we noticed the clutch fork moving strange. Check and make sure everything going to the clutch fork is good, then check the fork itself to see if its even moving the TO bearing.

Watsontown!!! You're only about 20 miles from me. Im down outside Danville.

Do you mean it wobbles or do you mean the position of the pulley compared to where it needs to be in line with the belt is off?? Got a pic? Mine was basically straight swap but it still wobbles a tad because we couldnt get the spacer perfect.

mine is currently at the mechanic for inspection. They need to replace the rear breaks and muffler they said. Brakes did look iffy but the muffler is fine. It had a slight crack down the seam and they wont pass it. Jerks. I told them to toss on the cheapest one they got.

There really isnt too much decent for 13" tires anymore. If you can get a good all terrain tire id say thats your best bet.

Went junkyarding. Found me some mint heater switches, and a few random interior pieces i needed. Also stumbled on a D/R 5 speed that they said i could have for $150 (and they'd even remove it for me!)

Well I couldnt be more wrong i guess!! Quick search yielded this: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=112498&highlight=digital+dash Seems like a huge hassle to swap, which is too bad. Im very glad i got a nicely optioned GL rather than a GL-10. I like the sunroof on the GL-10 but i really dislike the digital dash.

I would assume so yes... The connectors would probably be the same. I doubt they would use different wiring, that would complicate the process of building the cars. Normally the fewer different parts is better for cost correct? If you can get a pic of the back of your digidash I could check it against the connectors on my analog dash. Or someone else can chime in with the correct answer

So that confirms it was 23 spline in there, thanks Paul! I honestly wasnt sure but i remembered an old topic by you i found wayyy back in the archives of this board where you were trying to figure out spline issues and swapping axle pieces to work. I honestly couldnt recall which spline you swapped to though, hence why i was unsure about the original ratio compared to whats in there now. I think i also figured out everything i need to ID junkyard units too, that was my other purpose with this topic, because i would love to find a junkyard special dual range. I was just all confused with which ones are which based on splines and what not. So this arises: what splines are the XT and XT6 rear units? I know where theres a few of both of those in yard here. Any chance of finding an LSD unit in those?

The rear is still the stock 3.7, but Paul gave me a spare 3.9 he had to swap. He tested the 4 wheel drive and it didnt bind but i do beleive it is a 23 spline 5 speed single range tranny (meaning 3.9 from everything ive gathered now) He did have to do some swapping on the axles because the stock tranny was a 25 spline 3.7 i beleive. Because of these i think axles stubs needed swapped to get it working right. Anybody have a nifty chart of this stuff? Id love to print it out for junkyard trips =] I found this \/ which is fairly good, but i think lacks the harder to find stuff. Or am i mistaken, are 3.7 or 3.9 the only options for EA series? http://www.indysworld.com/80s/general/USRM/SOAMANUALSCANS/gear85fsm.jpg

Ok, that answers that! I know for a fact he had spline issues with the tranny he got. They weren't the normal 25 i dont think. NOW, 2 questions: - will the turbo put enough power through it to make it go boom quicker than normal or are they fairly stout? (yes i know the turbo GL is stupidly slow, only like an extra 25 HP, but im worrisome) - if i lift it and put on some nice 205/75/r15's or close to that, the higher gears being there works out perfectly doesnt it? Keeping it the way it is now means its going to accelerate faster and have a lower top speed than a stock turbo one right? I think i understand the difference in the gears being higher... If this is true just confirm it for me: I should swap in my 3.9 for the rear and not worry about anything because it wont truly matter. The tranny wont boom, I'm worrying myself too much. Correct?

That info IS why i was curious to figure it out... Paul (moosens) had the engine replaced with a jdm unit and tranny. He claims it was the wrong spline count on the "new" tranny in there, so he had to modify it to fit. In doing this I THINK that means the tranny could be the non-turbo single range tranny BUT im not positive. Being behind a turbo engine wont make it explode will it? It isnt THAT big a difference in power right? Maybe moosen can chime in and confirm. If it is indeed not a turbo tranny, but a normal single range that means it is the 3.9 correct? Edit: I was gandering at this chart but it seems incomplete... The only S/R listed obviously isnt the one i have, i can count all 5 of the gears in mine =] http://www.numbchuxconversions.com/Files/Gear%20ratios.JPG