jamesm113

http://www.cars101.com/subaru/keyless.html#code alarm

http://blog.tirerack.com/blog/make-driving-fun/replacing-one-tire-on-an-awd-car- Subaru: Within 1/4-inch of tire circumference or about 2/32-inch of each other in remaining tread depth So you're cutting it close. If tirerack.com carries your tire, you can have them to shave it down for you for $25

Any other ideas? Please!!!

Do you have a EJ22 or EJ25? And the tank is 15.9 gals, so you still have nearly 2.5 gals left, so maybe the low fuel light isn't getting the chance to come on

Did you get an alignment after replacing the inner tie rods? How are the spark plugs and wires?

Oh, oops. The filler tube is in good shape, no rust, and I smoked tested it

I put in a new OEM filter at 127K

I've been dealing with this code for the past couple months. It's on a 97 Legacy L AWD Wagon 136K. Light first came on around 134K. The light only comes on at freeway speeds with under 85% fuel left I've already tried switching gas caps with 2 different friends. CEL came back on for me both times, and never went on for them. There is no rust on the filler pipe (Car's been in california since 2000) I just tried a homemade smoke machine to try to find a leak, but couldn't find anything, however, verified pipes are not clogged. I've bench tested all 3 (purge, vent, pressure control) related solenoids, by applying 12VDC from a power supply. All solenoids clicked, however if I blew really hard on the pressure control solenoid, it would still allow some air through. However, I think (but am not certain) that is the expected behavior. I've used the test connector under the dash to verify the wiring to the 3 solenoids is functioning. Are there any other things I can check? Is it possible the vapor canister is clogged? Is there a way to check that?

How many miles on the car? Have you taken a look underneath the car? I'd check: *valve cover gaskets *front main seal *rear main seal *cam seals *cam cap seals

I had a similar leak on my legacy's radiator. Considered JB weld, but swapped out the radiator instead. Good to know JB weld would work for a couple weeks

I did get that fixed. Had to get a time sert installed where the bolt fell out and had to replace the mount Ahh, this is why i get confused! Anyway, the crosswind issues existed before the damage to the A arm. I don't think the poor SAI angle made it any better or worse.

The rear of the passenger control arm was loose. See attachment. Does FL mean driver's side or passenger side?

Bump? Anyone have any tips or clues?

Yea, I noticed that, too. What would likely be bent? The strut? Wheel hub? However, I've had the crosswind problems before the SAI loss.

What do you mean by scanner? An oscilloscope?

My legacy wagon isn't the most stable car with a mild (15-20mph) crosswind at highway speeds. It can be uncomfortable and the GF was complaining about it when she was driving it. What could cause this? Couple notes: * Bought car used with 124K in Oct 11. Replaced tires with evenly worn Michelin X Radials from my old car. * Got 2 flat tires 5 miles into a 1k road trip, one of which could not be repaired, had 4 new tires (Kumho Eco Solus KR22 P185/70R14) installed on 12/30/10 at 127,200K. Asked for an alignment check, but the tire shop told me inner tie rods & CV axles were shot, so there was no point in an alignment * CV axles (A1 cardone), Inner tie rods (Moog) and boots replaced & 4 wheel alignment done at 127,500K on 2/12/11 FL FRCamber -.1 -.4Caster 3.1 2.7Toe -.03 -.01SAI 13.9 14.4IA 13.9 14.0FrontCross Camber 0.4Cross caster 0.4Cross SAI -0.5Total Toe -.04 RL RRCamber -0.8 -0.2Toe 0.0 .01RearCross Camber -0.6Total Toe .01Thrust Angle 0 * After another road trip, I noticed rain grove wander with the tires (don't have rain groves in my area), especially in Las Vegas. I also noticed that on I 15 in Utah, where the speed limit was 80mph, crosswinds made driving 80 fairly uncomfortable. At 130K, tire shop rotated tires, inspected suspension & steering, told me everything is nice and tight, alignment was fine, and tires balanced. They told me the rain groove wander was due to over inflation, and would go away after a couple weeks of driving at normal tire pressure. Here are the alignment results: FL FRCamber -.2 -.4Caster 3.4 2.8Toe .03 .06SAI 14.3 14.6IA 14.1 14.1FrontCross Camber 0.0Cross caster 0.6Cross SAI -0.4Total Toe .09 RL RRCamber -0.6 -0.7Toe -.14 .09RearCross Camber 0.1Total Toe -0.05Thrust Angle -0.12 * At 134.7K, while on a camping trip, on a dirt road, one of the front passenger A-arm mount bolts vibrated out. Mount failed. Me being an idiot, drove 40 miles home. Installed new mount (& time sert professionally installed as the threaded hole on the frame was ruined). My guess is the previous owner's mechanic didn't torque the bolt correctly when replacing the axle. They have left me lots of other fun easter eggs.. * At 134.9K, had tires rotated and a 2 wheel alignment done, as FL toe was .42 degrees. Here are the after results: FL FRCamber -.2 -.4Caster 3.2 2.1Toe .01 .01SAI 6.9 14.6IA 6.8 14.1FrontCross Camber 0.2Cross caster 1.1Cross SAI -7.6Total Toe .02 RL RRCamber -0.5 -0.7Toe -.08 .04RearCross Camber 0.3Total Toe -0.04Thrust Angle -0.06 Hope I provided enough information. Thanks!

Thanks all. I think I will hold off for now as the only symptom I'm experiencing is poor gas mileage on highway trips under 15 miles (19-20 mpg vs high 20s on longer trips).

Should the front o2 sensor be replaced only when the CEL goes off or after they start to get old? I'm pretty sure my 97 Legacy 2.2L has the original O2 sensor and 135K on it. Also, anyone know what the OEM brand is? Bosch? Denso? How are the other aftermarket brands on these (I'm looking at NGK/NTK and Delphi)? Thanks!

The valve should default to closed. If you apply 12V to it, it will open.

#7 = pressure control solenoid. E side connects to two fuel cut valves on the top of the gas tank. #14 connects to the pressure control solenoid. #11 is a rollover valve, #16 goes to the charcoal canister

Could you elaborate a little bit more? I just got one from a parts car and it seems to behave the same way as the original. EDIT: This article says it's a two-way check valve to regulate pressure - could that be the case with our pressure control solenoid valves? Thanks

Well I took another look at it today. It appears I must have been doing something wrong first time around. I blew it softly, it was closed, but when I blew harder, it let air through. When I applied 12V, it let a lot of air through, so I think it's supposed to be closed by default, then lets air in when 12V is applied. Can anyone confirm this? Also, it's a 97 Legacy L AWD, 2.2L. Thanks!

How does this solenoid work and what is it's purpose? Is it a typical open/closed solenoid? Is it supposed to be closed when not energized? Does it allow atmosphere air in? I'm currently tracking down a P0440 EVAP code, and my pressure control solenoid has a very faint click, but remains open (ie, I can blow through it), whether or not 12V is applied. I've also tried plugging one port with my finger and applying a vacuum to the other port and then applying 12V - vacuum holds. The solenoid connects the charcoal canister to top of the fuel tank. Here's a picture of the valve: Thanks, any help much appreciated!

Yes, there is a very faint click. But it remains open. Wanted to confirm that it doesn't operate some other way (like allows air to enter the system to relieve pressure?) before replacing a $70 part

Sorry to dig up an old thread, but did you ever get the chance to test the pressure control solenoid? I currently am tracking down a P0440 EVAP code, mine doesn't close, but I can't find the correct operation anywhere. Mine currently remains open, regardless of whether power is applied or not. Thanks!