jamesm113

I replaced mine (97 Legacy L) last night. I thought it was a Denso, but the sensor I pulled was a Bosch. My housemate thought his 02 WRX had a bosch sensor, but he pulled a denso.

eBay

I got a used one off eBay, works fine, once the backlights were replaced. I put in some LEDs off superbrightleds.com

For $100, I'd buy it and make a coffee table out of the blocks

1/2" = 12.7mm. the drain plug is 13mm. It'll strip if you keep using a regular breaker bar or ratchet. mine certainly did

HF sells the drain plug socket in a full kit for $10-15. Much better than the KTC price of $30 http://www.harborfreight.com/12-piece-drain-plug-socket-set-94961.html

I've used this one: http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-56750-Seal-Puller/dp/B0002SRCKG Also, look into the cam cap o-rings, you might as well replace them while you are in there

Does your fan work on speed 4?

If the fan switch is on 4, the blower motor resistor isn't being used. Plus, if it's stuck on 4, it sounds like the climate control unit is already partially broken

the whole climate control assembly can be had for ~$25

You can loan a block tester from autozone to test for hydrocarbons in the coolant. Pretty easy test, takes less than 5 minutes

Which side of the tank? Passenger/Drivers Front/Rear? There's a couple check valves on the very top of the tank (even higher than the fuel pump/sending units) that lead to hoses that eventually connect to the EVAP canister. Slightly below that are two hoses that lead to the filler pipe. If those were leaking, they are fairly easy to replace (You won't need need to drop the tank). One is the hose for the filler neck itself, the other is called the air ventilator hose, which leads eventually back to the filler neck.

Also have you checked the hoses in these locations: 1. Between the firewall and the intake manifold (it's one of three hoses), by the fuel filter 2. Between the intake manifold and the purge solenoid 3. Between the purge solenoid and the throttle body 4. Underneath the car, near the rear driverside wheel, on the side of the fuel tank, there are 3 hoses about a foot in length. One of those is the EVAP purge line. 5. Between the EVAP canister and the roll over valve, pressure control solenoid. 6. Between the vent solenoid and EVAP canister If you have an assistant and a vacuum pump, you can test segments of the system one at a time: 1. Pull the line from purge solenoid and attach the vacuum pump. Have an assistant pull the purge line from the EVAP canister and plug it with their thumb. A vacuum should register immediately. If not, there is an issue with the purge line 2. Reattach the purge line. Have assistant disconnect charge and vent lines and plug holes with fingers. Vacuum should register immediately. 3. Detach charge line and attach vacuum pump. You should be able to build up a vacuum of about 1-3psi in a couple minutes and it should hold.

I didn't have to have to drop the cross member to spot my leak. Follow the air ventilator hose from the filler neck. On the other side (interior side) of the wheel well is the first spot it connects. Mine was cracked there. Then, there are a couple holes in the middle of the cross member. You can spot the other end of the hose through those. It's behind the filler neck tubing. Mine was cracked there as well.

Have you read the ABS code? http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=117608

Is your check engine light on? Should be a EVAP leak...

NGK wires will work fine too

I've always used engine degreaser. $2 at kmart

try the shift override?

Thanks Fairfax, those couple inches was enough to get the hose out. Gas cap is fine though. Both ends of the hose were cracked. Since it was a 5/8" hose made by Gates, I don't think it was factory installed, and I bet it being the wrong hose and size had something to do with the premature failure. EDIT Hose is Subaru Part Number 42162AC030

I think you have the wrong remote. You need one of these: I got mine on eBay for $20, though it was well used and the keys were faded. However, try the reprogramming instructions for the code alarm system, maybe you'll get lucky.

You have 98 car, but a 99 system? Did you install it or did it come with the car?

I think I found the leak, almost by accident. I was originally on planning on taking the car into get smoke tested today, but since I had the canister out, last night I figured I'd give things one last try when I was putting it back in. I had a friend attempting to pull a vacuum from the purge line in the front of the car, while I laid underneath the canister, plugging the vent line with my thumb. Since this took a while my eyes started wandering and a cracked hose miraculously caught my attention. The hose was the air vent hose, in between the gas tank and wheel well. It's pretty far in, but of course, I now feel like an idiot for not seeing it earlier. The side closest to the wheel well had some cracks around the hose clamp, with one extending about 1/4" towards the middle of the pipe. The other end, which attaches to the gas cap (you can spot it through one of the holes in the rear crossmember) had about a 1/2" crack. Anyone know if I can lower the rear crossmember a couple inches without removing anything but the 4 bolts that attach it to the frame? I just need a couple inches to work.

Is it possible to lower the rear crossmember a couple of inches while leaving the diff and driveshaft still in place? Thanks

you're risking damage to the clutch packs in your transmission. What year/model do you have? Check your owners manual for the exact specs