SubaruGL

Thanks again naru.. Not the best news but along the lines I was thinking :/

Alright I'm still stumped, I could really use any advice anyone has to offer... Not sure if the engine is gone or what to do next. Following the suggestion above, I checked the tensioner pulleys which all seem fine (running no T-Belt covers).. I also charged the battery (which is new) overnight and ran the car without the alternator belt for a bit. I tightened the other belt though it still looked loose when i ran it (see vid 2) :/ Noise seemed better at idle but definitely still there when i rev slightly. Here are some videos of the results both inside the car and outside (noise is definitely louder than the video portrays).... I did note when I started it without the alternator connected, I only got the EGR light on the first couple times then later all of them. I don't mind going out and getting a Maxima alternator right now if I can solve the other issue. The coolant seemed low in the rad and in the reservoir, but when I opened the cap some is definitely in there. My fear is the head gasket or just outright cracked heads. I hate to invest more money into this engine if its just going to be dead. Video 1: Video 2:

Ok gotcha. Thanks a lot for the help and fast replies. Before changing the timing belt I took off the covers to run open belts. SO this shouldn't be too hard to do.

alternator diodes gone? is that as in toast, or could you see something missing? Sorry haven't been working on subaru's in awhile and I know someone tried to work on this car and made a mess in more than one place. The alternator looks ok and the noise, if I had to guess, is coming from the front passenger side of the engine... from the gap between the timing belt and cooling fan.

Hey everyone... Finally got my Subie some new tires and topped off the coolant and took her out today... logged about 4-5 miles and she died. I took two videos, if anyone has some time I would appreciate any feedback suggestions. Here are the symptoms, and videos: 1.) I think it was due to a faulty alternator and/or loose alternator belt because the voltmeter was running lower and lower and I was able to restart her after my neighbor came and jump started me after hooking up the battery for about 10 minutes... Also on other cars I've had of this year, when all the lights come on its generally a charging problem, not sure for soobs. 2.) I still noticed the crackling I noted in my other posts upon acceleration. At first she wanted to stall anytime I stopped and I had to shift to neutral and keep the RPM's up... after a lap around the neighborhood she ran surprisingly smooth, but acceleration did seem slower than it should be. 3.) The whole time basically all the indicator lights were on. The oil pressure seemed low (according to the gauge), but the temperature seemed to approach close to the red but never made it. 4.) After the jump start i kept the rpms's up and drove straight home. I had heard some squealing like slipping belts so I put on some dressing but the sound didn't go away. Engine is making some nasty noise now but i can turn the key and start it up. Looking for advice on the next steps to try, short of an engine swap. I've invested some money in this with the radiator, timing belt service, and new tires. Forgot to mention: 87 Subaru GL Wagon 4wd, about 79k miles, hitachi carb

Thanks for the thread and information here bratclay! Very helpful. I had been having problems finding a picture of the setup to use for the rear and your picture was small but was what I needed to see! Good job. Going to try and make my own lift kit in the upcoming weeks.

For sure! I started this thread (http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=117524) with build updates in mind... I will probably start a new, cleaned up one once I get her running dependably and really start the "fun" stuff! I'm still unsure if the heads are OK and have to get her up to being able to be driven around some so I can make a clear determination on my next steps.

Absolutely great thread and great build Sesh! You give my inspiration for my '87 wagon, especially since its the same color

Not purring just yet, but running better. Remaining symptoms, #1 & #2 may just be hitachi related: 1.) have to fiddle with accelerator to keep the car idling the first 20 seconds or so, otherwise she dies 2.) once the high idle kicks in and she warms up and the idle settles, depressing the gas too much, and really not much at all!, it wants to die... have to give it gas VERY gradually. Thinking this might have to do with too much much air. Going to look around for a used Weber setup that will be compatible. 3.) after a bit of idle, the CHARGE light did come on... after a bit more the "OIL TEMP" light came on... the latter concerns me the most. 4.) annoying noise (rattle) at about around 3-4k RPM... see video sound isn't the best sorry

Thanks a lot Turbone! So much emissions stuff in the engine bay, it's driving me insane! OK, I probably misread the emissions/vacuum line diagram, what's left of it. The CV boot did look relatively new come to think.

Progress continues, slowly (original thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=117524) 1.) Noticing some moisture here and I can't figure out what that canister looking thing is: 2.) Noticed the line to the auto tranny has been disconnected. From the routing diagram it looks to fit to a T-connector with two other hoses, but I can't find them: 3.) Biggest issue keeping me from driving it is a general smoke and burning smell coming out of the engine... It appears to be coming from behind the hot air pipe outlet (which I taped off for now), right where the y-connector/cat exits to the exhaust pipe. Wondering if this is a sign of a plugged cat? I do get a little "noise" when I rev her. I'm trying to avoid having to drop the exhaust due to having to work on gravel, unless I'm sure it's going to help. u%20GL/photo2-11.jpg[/img]

Ok so here are three more videos... Most important issue aside from the idle issue is smoke (smells like burning rubber) coming up from the exhaust. I previously thought it was from the heater hose outlet I taped up, but in the daylight it seems to be coming up from where the y pipe joins to the exhaust pipe... Any ideas on why this is or if I should not run the engine with this smell would be appreciated. UPDATE: Let some of the crap burn off, put some SeaFoam I had kicking around (I swear by it!) into the carb and after a brief smoke show she seems to have the idle under control (see last video). It bogs a little when I hit the gas hard, but now I feel more comfortable buying tires and driving it some. I did notice the "charge" light came on. Not sure if the loose belt would do that. I'm guessing a new alternator will be needed too :/ My free car isn't so free anymore! But I can't wait to be able to use her regularly. Starting up Smoking while running (came out sideways, sorry) Smoke from y pipe junction UPDATE video... idling better:

Well seems like I was successful! Fired up the wagon last night and it ran well, seemed to hold water too... The temperature gauge even started to register warmth. Now I'm having a problem keeping it idling, making it difficult to really heat it up good. Upon start up I have to give it a little gas to keep it running and then SLOWLY let up on the gas pedal to get it down to idle. After it starts to heat up the idle drops and she stalls. If I rev it up and then let off the gas quickly, the rpm needle drops below idle and she stalls. If I hold the pedal at just the right spot, I seem to be able to keep her purring. A couple things of note. One vacuum hose broke off the metal/green valve thing on the air intake, see vids if your connection is fast enough... but she was doing this before I did the service also. When I rev her up I get a rather loud crackling noise. I don't have the preheat hose from the exhaust up to the intake. I covered the exhaust port with some muffler tape for now. I did notice a little smoking and smell, but that could be from the dried fluids and/or degreaser. Many thanks on ideas on what to try next! Videos below... sorry it was dark out. Won't hold idle: Another vid of giving gas and it stalling: This is the "valve" I referred to, what is it? (I was having the same problems before the hose detached btw...) She's running!

Well removed the AC bracket and reconnected the bypass hose and solved the leak. The 1/2" or so of the metal tube was rotted! Started to put back the AC condenser but it wasn't tightening and I ran out of light. Tomorrow I hope to get the rest reassembled and try to fire her up! Thanks for all the help. Thanks too Kanurys... I agree that the paper gaskets are junk. I did use a paper gasket for the water pump out of necessity, but I did also coat both sides with some copper, high-heat RTV sealant... I was a little mad the kit didn't appear to have the oil pump, mickey mouse, gasket, and there were a lot of others I couldn't identify what they were. I'll keep them around for when needed, and in the mean time I think I got her sealed up enough to hold coolant so I can check how everything looks.

Is there any simple way to remove the damn hitachi AC compressor? Par steering pump removed to no avail.

Confirmed the leaking is coming from where that little rubber hose goes from the water pump to the metal tube. I must have pulled it loose making sure I secured the end to the water pump. I can get my finger in there enough to feel the water coming out, but can't get in there to loosing the clamp and reseat it :/ Idea/question: since I have the heater core bypassed, what do you think about me just bypassing the metal pipe with a long piece of hose? The tightening screw is facing the passenger side of the car and there is no way I can see getting in there with a wrench without major removal, possibly of the intake.

Hose running back over engine looking toasted front of car Water pump pulley installed with new nuts, 2nd electric fan not installed ATM Just tried refilling it and that rusted pipe stays dry. Yet water cuts out quickly from behind where that rubber hose connects to the pump.

Thanks Miles... I do feel comfortable with the pulley on the water pump and everything seems to line up great. I think the previous hack mechanic pounded out the studs and tried using nuts it their place, hence why they weren't holding. I've taken off the belts now and am trying to find this leak, it just pours out. I can't see where the rubber hose connects to the metal tube, but I can see rust on the metal pipe indicative of a leak for awhile, maybe like you said at the mouting tab. Does checking this require removal of the A/C compressor? I'll try to snap a picture and do it from this phone.

Update: timing belts, cam seals, water pump, new radiator, and thermostat housing repaired. Now when I add coolant, after about a 1/2 gallon (too fill the radiator), coolant comes streaming out from above the water pump. I removed the metal outlet pipe, checked it's oring and for rust holes; I've also ensured the water pump bolts and clamp around rubber tube on the top of it are OK. It seems the fluid is coming from above those things. I can't seem to find where that little rubber hose connects to, I'm guessing to one of the steel heater core tubes? Can anyone verify this and or tell me if this seems right? I'm thinking I have to remove the a/c compressort to get to where I'm thinking, and I'm dreading that. Thanks

Alright, totally DUMB question but I need to ask.... I previously posted a picture of the water pump pulley (in lieu of what I thought was a missing clutch fan! LOL) where they used 3 of the four bolts and they were completely loose and messed up. I've replaced the water pump and this one has 4 studs coming out. I assume the pulley will go on those and I attach it with 4 nuts? I'm going to the hardware store to get nuts, but was wondering if anyone has a picture of it installed correctly? It looks to me like it comes awfully close to the flywheel and that was one picture I didn't take before disassembly. :/ All the pictures I find on here seem to not have a pulley on the waterpump, I'm assuming that is because they have a clutch fan setup.

Thanks Ben, Very helpful information.! I'll have to find a way to mount the drivers side fan again, but good to know it wasn't supposed to have a clutch fan. I only assumed that because the mounting holes on the water pump are there. I'm out working on the car now and having a break. The water pump pulley was the messed up one I posted. As for the stripping bolts, I know that all too well. Just cleaned out the bay a bit to get rid of the grime some. As for the heater core, it's bypassed ATM. Not sure if it was bad or they were trying to eliminate possible leaks. Going to go change the seals and other timing belt stuff now. Will report back and thanks again. Brian

Update 02.24.2011... FINALLY got some time off work and started to service the wagon and see what I could do to resurrect her. I found an extremely corroded thermostat housing, which is not cheap nor do I have. I fixed it temporarily and plugged a pinhole in it with some metal epoxy. The tube where the upper radiator hose attaches to was corroded, and the house had cracked underneath I couldn't see. This appeared to be the blatant source of my radiator fluid leak. (pictures at end of post.) I also found 3 interesting things... 1.) NO THERMOSTAT at all! Someone was messing with this car and just took out the thermo. So, I was forced to buy a non-oem stant at the local auto store for now. 2.) No clutch fan on the water pump. There was a second electrical fan on the driver's side of the radiator (which actually didn't look terrible but I already have a new one. The 2nd fan was held in with some sort of plastic cord that went through the radiator and had a disc lock on the outside face of the radiator. I'm sure I'll have to order a new clutch fan, but for now I'll still start it up for testing after I finish the seals and timing belt. 3.) the upper pulley (sorry, I'm not thinking of the name atm, picture below) was being held on with only 3, not 4 bolts, which had seen better days. They were only on loosely and I had to use pliers to get them off as the hex heads had been scraped and badly deformed. The shafts were also totally bent and flexed. NO IDEA what the heck happened here. BAD THERMOSTAT HOUSING: MESSED UP PULLEY/BOLTS:

Hang in there Loyale! Everyone is OK which is the most important. Your Subie protected the passenger and that is most important. Good luck traveling and finding out about the damage and with repairs. Life definitely deals us blows but that is what makes us stronger and able to better appreciate the good when it happens.

No to water freezing and to seeing them women! Lol I will check for bubbles once I get the thing to hold fluid. Got home too late to investigate the leak in the dark tonight ---edit--- Did decide it best to just do the timing and all the gaskets now tho as Ricearu suggested. I hate having to wait for the parts but its all good in the long run LOL... where is the best Subaru online site to purchase OEM gaskets in the USA? Want to get intake gaskets and probably a new thermostat while I'm at it.

Thanks Ricearu! Very helpful information. I'm busting out of work early and will look further into the source of the leak. The water in the oil was the biggest fear of mine and all my friends were telling me to drive it and blow the crap out. As for the shaft being the source of the leak I'll keep this thread posted. That sounds very feasible but I know the lady knew it had a problem and hence why she stopped driving it. I'm worried she drove it and caused more damage.... only time will tell. Timing belt and seals will definitely get changed once I determine if the engine is salvageable. Trying not to dump a bunch of money into something that will still be broke :/ Thanks again.