l75eya

Get a long pipe on that breaker bar.

Lol, welcome! Glad you asked, there is a search function on the forum itself, top right corner. Personally, I find it easier to do a Google search and just include ultimatesubaru.org in the search. For instance How to change water pump ea82 ultimatesubaru.org That will return lots of results most likely related to what I'm looking for. Congratulations on the free GL! There no better price!

Picked up a set of NOS XT fog lights. Never installed. May install them, may not. Haven't decided yet, but they're in great shape aside from one cracked lense.

Whoops, my mistake mr_Loyale. Apologies, I assumed so because all the other trim on my cars is held on by plastic cups like the others have said. Best of luck finding a way to repair that trim!

Think Mr_Loyale is taking about the window moulding clips

Subi Movie_small:

That raised portion of the clutch is installed facing the PP. So then that is correct.

Unless I'm wrong about the clutch plate.. Now you've got me second guessing that even though I'm 99 prevent sure I put it back in the way it came out. Can somebody verify proper orientation?

Lol, if your head hurts just from reading about it, imagine me! Haha! Clutch fork will pull all the way to the extent of its travel backward. Didn't know about the different pedal set up, but like I said, I have full clutch fork travel anyways so that's a no go, Went through the spine difference on the axles already. I have turbo axles in my car now. Clutch disc orientation is indeed full proof. One side is raised and that side faces the pressure plate. I can engage all gears with the engine off because the input shaft is not spinning. Either with the clutch in or out. Makes no difference but that's obviously because the motor isn't running and nothing is turning. Problem in a nutshell is that for some reason or another my clutch disc is always engaged to the flywheel, so my input shaft is always spinning when the motor is spinning. The hard part is finding out why. Thanks for your ideas and thoughts though. Happy Thanksgiving everybody!

I like how caboobaroo posts his xt and then.. That's it. Nothing to top that lol. End of thread. Maybe turbones RX. Or Nico's GL.

Trying to remind myself how great my car *can* be.

I was thinking along those lines as well wagonist. I double checked the clutch kit I ordered and it is correct for an 87 4wd GL. One thing I can't confirm however is if there is any difference between the clutch for an 87 4wd GL (my car) and an 85 RX turbo 4wd (my new trans) or if there is any difference between the flywheel for either.

I have a copy. PM me if interested.

Pittsburgh Penguins front plate. Burn it with fire.

I've looked. Everything looks fine. I've visually seen the clutch fork fully released and the throw out bearing in there just chilling, and I've seen it with the clutch pedal pushed in at high adjustment and I can see the clutch fork way forward and the throw out bearing spinning and pushed in to the flanges. All that seems to be operating fine.

The hole the pilot bearing fits in to in the flywheel is deeper than the pilot bearing itself is, which is what I was saying above. Because the pilot bearing isn't as deep as the flywheel, I opted to keep it sort of in the middle. Almost identical to that photo but a LITTLE bit deeper in the flywheel than that. Though even if what you are suggesting were the case, I couldn't imagine that slight bit of rub overcoming the idle of the engine, let alone the torque of hitting the brakes with such momentum as I did. Either way though, as much as it hurts my pride, the car is going to go in to a local garage for somebody to figure out my headache. I appreciate all the suggestions and time. Will update with the cause when it's discovered.

If moving the driveshaft out of the way will help, go for it. It's pretty easy to move it enough out of the way for you to work. Four 12 mm bolts attaching it to the diff, 2 14mm bolts for the carrier bearing. Once the 4 in the back are out it'll slip right off the diff. Once the two carrier bolts are out, you can just drop it down out of the way without removing it from the trans. It just slides out of the back of the trans though, so be careful you don't let it come all the way out or gear oil will leak.

New pilot bearing. Only thing I can add to that is when I installed it I wasn't sure if it was supposed to sit flush with the back (trans side) of the flywheel, or flush with the front (engine) side of the flywheel, so I left it relatively in the middle and imagine if it was supposed to be on one side or the other it'd either get pushed there during installation or wouldn't matter.

I just put enough force on the clutch that I imagine if it was rusted it would have broke free. Front wheels in the air, 70 mph on the speedo in fifth, foot on the clutch, slam on the brake, nothing. Stalled motor. Worth a shot. Didn't break anything so there is that. Still not disengaging. Wagonist, it was a bear to line up by myself, but I'm pretty certain I didn't hit the flanges. I'm contemplating driving it to a garage and having them finish the job. I'm tired.

I found this talking about a clutch sticking to the flywheel. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/136471-79-brat-clutch-issue/ Any thoughts? I already tried cranking the engine with my foot on the clutch and brake while in gear. Car cranks but won't start. No change. Is it possible it's rusted or stuck to the flywheel? I installed the clutch and pressure plate with the trans out and it was out for a week. I'm sure it rained during that time. Could this be the problem after all?

Well I'm at a complete loss. All back together again and still the same. The clutch seems to not be disengaging. At all. With the front in the air and the wheels spinning free, even with the clutch pedal pushed in the wheels turn when it's in gear. If I hit the brake it stalls the motor. The clips on the throw bearing are in place (and it seems to me they only really ensure the bearing releases when the pedal is released) I can SEE the bearing pushed up against the pressure plate flanges and I KNOW there's good pressure on them because the clutch adjustment is so far in I only have half travel on the pedal before the fork hits the bell housing. I thought MAYBE the friction disc rusted to the flywheel but that seems HIGHLY unlikely and I'd think the weight of the vehicle being moved would break it free. I'm at a loss. This sucks.

I did. Bent them back in to shape. I'm aware this isn't advisable lol.

Douchbag69 LOL Wow. Okay, so from what I've deciphered, I think he's trying to figure out how to lower the car. What coilovers will work and whatnot. I have nothing, but I just wanted to try and translate.

Tried the lug nut thing. No use. Tore it all apart yesterday, found a throw out bearing clip had fallen off. Split the drive train just enough to get my hand in there. Hopefully bolting it all back together today. Was being a pain getting trans and motor to line up. Never changing a transmission in a gravel driveway at the onset of winter by myself ever ever again.

I thought about that, but check this out When I first went to adjust the clutch, I tightened the adjusting nut ALL the way to the end of it's adjustment. Like a fool. I realized this was wrong when I got in the car and had it in a gear (can't remember if it went in to gear at this point or not. I don't think it did) and then let the clutch out and the car wouldn't move. That's when I realized "Oh. The car isn't moving because the adjusting screw is too tight and the clutch isn't engaging" I loosened it and then I could get the car to move by releasing the pedal. That being said, I'm not so sure what you chaps have suggested will work, but I'll give it a shot tomorrow anyway.