The FNG

can anyone confirm that a 2wd/fwd front strut would work fine in a 4wd loyale wagon?

Oops double tap

Thanks I'll look

Have you put them to use yet? Part number please?

So why even list the part for 2wd use. Good info and thanks for that!

Does anyone have an idea where I can find front struts for a 90 Loyale wagon 4wd MT? Rock auto has a set, but they're gabriels. I was hoping to get some KYB's, but I'm not willing to pay over $100 per strut when I can get Bilsteins for my full size truck for half that price. Are there any front strut alternatives? Ive read the "2.7 Turbo Loyale" writeup on improved suspension, but I'm not going that route right now. Thanks for any help.

Do you put them on "dry"?

Oops double post

I'll get me cilynders for each rear drum as well as new pads and hardware/springs. Is there a how-to for this? I can't seem to locate one with search function... And I haven't looked on YouTube yet, but are there any tips to make it go smoother?

Here's a good one I found while researching this topic...http://www.austincc.edu/wkibbe/oilfilterstudy.htm

I usually use the aftermarket gaskets and smear them with high temp RTV (Orange) gasket maker. It works for me just fine. It also helps if you have good studs to bolt your exhaust.

The drum looks ok. It could probably be used again. I've just never done drum brakes before so I wasn't sure if I would need to go more in depth...

Hi guys! It's been about a year since I've been on here, but I'm back and have some questions. I've been working on a 91 Loyale and just finished it up. I took it for a test drive and the brake fluid light came on. Then the brakes went out. I limped it home in first (I was only a block away) and checked it out. I had oil leaking out of the passenger side drum. I busted it apart and found the drum full of brake fluid and what was left of the pads in the bottom of the drum. My question is can I replace the piston at the top of the brakes (cause of said leak) and pads and be on my way? I am assuming the other side needs pads as well.

I have 4 in good shape. you can have them for shipping costs... PM me if you want them

I cleared 28" BFG KM2's with a 2" lift and fender trimming. They rubbed on a tight turn. I'm not sure you'll do too well on the SS with how wide they are but I'm sure you can get some offset Toyota rims or something.

You can do it if you want, but I probably wouldn't do it. One of the primary functions of oil is to seal. So with the above described process on an engine that has been relying on standard oil for it's extensive life, you are double washing any sealing that the oil has caused. Essentially, there is buildup in your engine and some of that buildup may be plugging a leak. If you flush it with an oil that has cleaning properties then fill it with a synthetic oil (known for their detergent properties), expect leaks. And yes, the molecules of synthetic oils are more durable, more "slippery", and much smaller.

I'd rather just pull the radiator. Time is money and I know how much more time it would take. Plus, the added chance of smashing radiator fins...

I'm aware of the stop leak... I have used the lucas oil additive...looks like gear oil...with success before. And yes the steering res is leaking, but it has ATF in it and the oil I'm seeing is fresh motor oil for sure. Will do. good call. I also have a PCV hose retro to put on that I pulled from a car in the yard.

how the heck do you do the front main seal without pulling the radiator?

ya i did some of them, like the cam seals, but not all

not since i've owned it...

1990 Loyale in sig I have a horrible oil leak coming from somewhere on the front of my engine. I can't remember if I replaced the front main seal or not, but I did replace the seals for the cams (although one is leaking a little) and I never did the oil pump seal. From what I can see, it looks like it would be coming from the front main seal or the oil pump, but I really can't tell. Which is more likely? I guess if I do one, I could do both...but I think I can do the oil pump seal without pulling the radiator...it's been awhile. Any advise would be nice.

Update: Injector is working properly. I found a broken/shorted wire in the harness for the IAC, but fixing that wire did not help the issue. I moved on and fixed an exhaust leak at the header where the gasket was blown out and Boom, the issue was fixed. Now I still have an idle issue, but it doesn't throw the light on. With the green plugs connected, I get a code 42 (idle valve or something) and my car won't idle below 2k rpms. Idle is nice and smooth, car has good power, and seems to run fine other than the constant high idle...

he's in the right area... there are a ton of guys in portland.

so you're saying a broken wire or shorted wire???