The FNG

I was reading a little about the MSD coils. Sounds like MSD Blaster 3 coil? made in US originally then mexico and now us again? which one is best? I also read about the higher end NAPA one?

Could this be the problem?

I wouldn't bet my kids dirty diaper for a diesel chevy (or chevy anything) anyway.

Welcome. Sounds like a good deal to me. Nice purchase, decent price.

Just bought a known good used dizzy from bheinen74, so when that gets here, I will try that. Going to use a spark tester to see if I am even getting spark in my ignition system this weekend.

any way to test it to be sure?

All good and new, my friend. the posts they sit on are shiney too. But I do not know about the starter motor.

Is that the one by the thermostat housing?

The FSM says 20* BTDC. The closer I get to it, the smoother it runs or ran. It would cut out and die if it got to 12* I think.

So I bought my Subaru sometime around a year ago thinking, wow, these are cool cars. I can have a 4x4 lifted wagon that gets great mileage and is so easy to work on. I drove it home almost 100 miles in the winter with no heat, but no issues either. I was so excited. It was awesome to drive. Fast forward one year from that day. I have worked on this car and put more money into it than the total miles I have driven it. To date I have put in a new thermostat, all new hoses and vacuum lines, timing belt kit, resealed the cam towers, the crank, and the oil pump, new water pump, Fel-Pro head gasket kit, new NGK plugs and wires, wheel bearings, various other things such as cleaning, rewiring, filters (air, oil, and gas), and an oil change. I have learned so much just about cars too. I learned how to change timing belts and how to time an engine (at least a Subaru), I gained the confidence to tackle a head gasket job and replace wheel bearings. I even got my taillights to work again last night. And I could not have done any of it if it was not for the awesome Subaru enthusiasts on this board. So, before I decide to sell or junk (or provide death by rust due to spite) my Soob, please help me get my vehicle on the road for more than an hour. I have very little patients left with this car, but I really do love it so much and want nothing more than to drive it. By the way it is a 91 Loyale EA82 5 speed with push button 4x4. I really can't tell you the issues I am having with it other than one day it starts (yesterday) and the next it wont. It ran like a champ yesterday. today it will not even try to start. I had some intermittent sputtering before I realized that the ignition coil wire to the top of the disty was corroded. So I changed it and the CEL went away and it ran great. I checked my timing and it is at 18* which is a little off, but I can't seem to get it any better than that. Anyway, please help. And I wont sell it or junk it by the way. If anything I will go broke trying to get it back on the road and my wife will divorce me for it.

Yes, EA82. And thank you for the answer.

Ok, so I have posted about this once before, but I really didn't get any particular answers. I have no taillights when the headlights are on. All other lights work (blinkers, brakes, reverse, etc). All fuses and fuseable links are good and there are no plugs disconnected. I broke off the parking light switch at one point and I think this is when I lost my taillights. I have a replacement on the way. So my question is this: how do I bypass the switch so that either I can manually turn on my taillights or turn them on with the headlight switch? This will be temporary only. I cannot find the switch in my haynes electrical schematics, so I have no way to tell which wires are what on the harness. If there is a pinout diagram or something that I am missing, help me out. Thanks

it will usually have a rhythmic grinding noise that may increase with speed. it can be quite loud.

Seriously, I just about sent my Loyale to the yard. I had similar problems with stumbling under load, stalling and then it just quit. The car threw about eight codes from irregular injector output, EGR, VSS, neutral circuit to all sorts of other stuff. I could not get it started for the life of me. I checked everything, most everything was new anyway. The one thing I missed was the coil wire. It was the old one and it was corroded at one end. I replaced it with a new one and BAM! fired right up. No power issues, no codes, perfect. Weird ************, but seriously, fix the easy stuff first.

I screwed the flip down ones to my dash. http://www.amazon.com/American-Technology-CH-00100-BLK-1-MUGGER-Folding/dp/B000Q86IQQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1331232268&sr=8-1 I'm happy with them, but then again, I'm not too concerned with how it looks. It's more how it works.

I am not doubting your skill/knowledge in working on these cars. It is just that I like to get as much info as possible before I make decisions. I like to be told why I shouldn't do something. So please excuse my ignorance . That being said, could you tell me any more info on the switch? The reason I am so interested in bypassing it is because I drive 45 minutes to an hour every morning in the dark. I pass 1-2 county mounties every day and I just got pulled over for not having taillights among other things (the lights are the reason I got pulled over, but not what the ticket was for). It does not particularly bother me to bypass the switch and have a separate one, although I am hoping for it to be an easy fix. I really have no access to a junk yard and this is my dd, so it would be helpful to just use an alternative method.

I think the switch electrically works, but I mechanically broke it. I have no issues snipping wires and welding in a new switch. why would it cause issues?

yeah, I checked the fuses. It's always good to get reminded about the simple stuff though. As for the switch on top, is there any way to replace it that does not involve taking it apart since that is what seems to have landed me here in the first place? I wouldn't be opposed to rewiring a dash switch in its place like you would use for a set of Hellas.

Come to think of it, I believe the lights stopped working when I broke the switch. I broke the switch mechanically, not electrically, though (if that makes sense). I will do a little more fiddling around to see if the lights work in another setting. The dome light works on the inside and all the dash lights work too.

So, no taillights when I turn the headlights on. Also, the switch above the steering wheel does not work. I took it apart and the spring and ball shot out...oops. I do get turn signals, brake lights, and reverse lights though. any ideas? I read something about relays under the dash, any more info on those? Thanks!

Ya, the reason I used 100 was because that is what we use on our trucks at work, so I didn't really think twice about it until some just kept spinning and one completely popped loose.

Well, sounds like I over did it a touch. my bad. Anyone got a lead on some good cheap lug nuts?

What do you all torque them to? I was using 100 ft-lbs today and stripped out at least 2 of my lug nuts. I know they weren't cross-threaded, so what gives? I did the rest to 80.

I recently did the head gaskets on my 91 loyale spfi. I timed it and made sure that the timing belts are spot on, not a tooth off. I then timed the distributor to 20* BTDC with the first cylinder on the compression stroke using an inductive timing light at 750ish rpms (warm) and the green connectors together. The car idles like a hot knife in butter, smooth and silky. Next, I disconnected the green plugs, and turned the car off. I restarted it and it idled the same. Then I applied the gas...not so nice. The car kinda boggs down for a little until the rpms pick up and it seems to pick up just fine and it goes down to idle again. I checked all the vacuum lines and installed a new fuel filter. Long story short, the gas is about 6 months old. I think I put some seafoam in it before it was parked, but I can't recall. How old is too old for gas and would it cause these symptoms or am I missing something?

Dude, I for got that piece when I did my head gasket job too! (Even though I managed to get my heads on the right side.) I thought of doing the same thing, but it was too short of a distance. I really don't understand the function of the tube enough to give advise, but it seems reasonable. I would just be sure to use some sort of PCV hose that wont melt at high temps and wont collapse under any sort of vacuum.