The FNG

Use a Subaru OEM thermostat (if you are not already). They are like $15 and there is a big difference. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=126278

Man, that is a bad rump roast van! I don't think any of those made it to the states, but I would rock one:headbang: Good luck and I hope someone can help you on here.

I am very envious of your BRAT purchase, however, I am not sure why you posted this in the "parts for sale" section. I think this needs to be moved to the older gen forum.

I think I'll leave this one to someone else. I really don't have time to mess with it. Here is the link: http://portland.craigslist.org/grg/pts/2902723089.html

I kinda thought the same thing :rolleyes:But the issue is not the threads either, they are tight as can be. The air is escaping from between the pipe and the threaded nut. I never really thought much about it when I did my head gaskets, but I noticed the pipe looked like someone had ground it down in the past since there was hardly enough of a flange to keep the nut on. I am going to replace it anyway and I should have one by tomorrow.

I suppose I need more info on it then. I was super stoked on the price. If I am correct, there should be a nameplate on the back of it that would specify more info (just like on my Loyale). If there is no nameplate, then how would I be sure exactly what the ratio is, if it is really an LSD (it doesn't have stubs to rotate, just female holes), and what type of LSD it is? Thanks again.

Ok, I've got this info for an LSD. Is it right and will it fit my Loyale with a 5spd manual 3.90 gears? rear diff from a 04 wrx. 85k miles, pulled from a salvaged running driving car. will fit all 2002-2005 3.90 5 speed wrx's. will not fit the 4.11 automatics. $100

I have read a few threads that have said the EGR is good and that the EGR is bad. If I could block it off and trick the computer into thinking all was ok without any negative performance, than I would consider that, but at this point, I am still skeptical. Bumblebeast, I have a TBI or fuel injected engine and I don't think I will be going to do the weber swap, but I will have a look at how you bypassed the EGR in that thread.

The end of the pipe got kinda screwed up and it won't seal I guess. It won't tighten any farther and I don't want to strip the threads. I guess I will try to locate a new one. I need to redo my intake manifold gaskets anyway. Thanks for the help!

Can someone please explain this part--I am losing air out of it and it is making my engine stall out. It is located on the passenger side head and goes from the head to the intake.

Good call on the fusable links. I will look at those tonight. This car was in a shop for over a year because they couldn't get it timed right (shout out to Miles Fox for his videos) and I got it done in 5 minutes. I guess they hot wired the fuel pump and burned it out??? That is what I was told. Like I said I will check the fuses and fuseable links.

Hey, So I've got mine running and the neighbor thought mine was cool, so he went out and procured himself a Loyale (90 ish wagon with manual 5spd pb 4x4) We got the timing belts on last night and we went to start it and BAM...nothing. I noticed that the fuel pump relay does not click when the key turns to on and obviously, the pump does not kick on either. I am assuming I would start at the relay and work my way back to the pump, correct? Where do I find this relay though? By the way, the car started right up when we poured gas down the intake.

It was just a suggestion. If it works that way, then all the better. I was just stating that it may not work for mine. I also did not red the original post correctly. If it blew a fuse when turned on, then I would be looking for a short. Look for wear points where the wires are in the engine bay. If you have one to use, you can always megger the wires too. That would tell you right away if you had a short.

I would second that. They seem easy enough to get a hold of though. However, I would not recommend adding brake fluid to the oil. I know it can work as leak preventive, but it can also ruin things. There is a reason you do not want to spill it on your paint!

The only issue I see with that is that if the lights are on while trying to start the car, it may not provide enough amperage to start the car. It seems like these cars have pretty weak starting systems (at least mine does). If you want, pm me I may have a lead on a new switch for you. It is actually really easy to replace.

6" crescent wrench, 1/4" ratchet set, philips and flat-head screwdriver, and extra t-belts.

Well, the car is till running about 150 miles later, but at one point, the CEL came on. a little while down the road, it went off at some higher RPMs and then would return at some lower speeds and RPMs. I went to go check the codes (assuming it would be 34--I've had issues with the EGR code in the past and ignored it) and when I watched the light it was solid with sporadic flashes at random times and then it will completely go out. Any ideas? Seems weird since it was working not too long ago.

I finally got a new coil in it yesterday and I think the damn car fired up before I could even get the key turned all the way over. Gonna cross my fingers that this is the end of it for a while. Thanks for the help guys.

Ok, so I pulled a boneheaded move when installing my new ignition coil and didn't mark which wire went to which post:banghead:. So now I have no idea how to install the coil. I have a blue and yellow group (2 wires) and 2 identical black/white wires grouped. Logic tells me the black group goes on the negative side of the coil, but The way I remember the coil sitting, it would be the opposite. Any suggestions? 91 Loyale 4wd man 5 spd.

Are you sure the plug wires are in the correct order? motor: 3 4 1 2 disty: 3 1 2 4 I think this is right. May need to look it up. By the way, this is looking from the front of the car (standing at the front bumper).

Good thing you replaced that bad sensor.

So I made the rookie mistake when I bought my Soob and opened the A/C lines not realizing what it takes to recharge it. Then I learned it was an r12 system that is nearly impossible to recharge these days and is technically illegal. So, I wanted to convert to r134a, even though I understand it does not work as well. Has anybody used a conversion kit? Which one did you use and how easy was it to do? Just curious. Summer is coming up and I would prefer to have A/C but it is not completely necessary:rolleyes:

by the way, thanks for the offer. I appreciate it and may take you up on it some time.

I ordered the MSD version of that Accel one (MSD 8222HV). It would take less time to get to the local parts store. Thanks for the suggestion though.

Timing belts?