The FNG

Haha, ya I noticed the power difference once I unplugged them plus it seems to run a bit better

Ya, I read that, but it says for 1989 models, the connectors are on the engine side of the firewall on the driver's side, hence the photo. Then it refers to read only and self-diagnostics, but it does not tell you which one is which or how to really use them. So my question was to confirm I was looking at the correct connectors and to determine which connector was read only and which connector was self-diagnosis. Then I need to know the proper usage of them to read and clear codes. As you can see in the pic, both of the connectors are together. This is how I bought it and being new to all this Subaru stuff, I wanted to be sure before I go messing with stuff.

I'll give you one of these because you are awesome. I will mess with them tomorrow when I get a chance. Thanks

Ok, so I am tired of looking at a flashing check engine light. I have found and fixed what I believe to be my current issues. I have searched and searched to try to figure this out, but it really is confusing to me for some reason . Can someone please help me figure out which plugs to connect and disconnect in order to read, diagnose and delete codes? I do not have any brown or green plugs under the dash. I have these by the fuel filter: .

A lot of work lately. I've been troubleshooting a PITA over-heating issue. So I've done intake manifold gaskets (no broken bolts ), new thermostat and gasket, front wheel bearings (outer race broke in half and cage exploded:eek:), and I'm working on a new paint job--to be revealed later. I will also be installing a new to me byb 3" lift and EGR valve as soon as they come in. I'm freakin' excited!

Actually, both Napa and Car Quest had their lower grade bearings for $15 each which is unbelievably cheaper than RockAuto.com by almost $5 per bearing not including shipping. And yes, there are 2 bearings per wheel. I thought about going to a bearing supplier like GD recommended, but for sake of time and convenience, I paid a little extra for a little less quality bearing and just picked them up at Napa. From Napa, 2 bearings at $15 and change plus one outer seal and one inner seal at $6.50 each and a tub of grease at $5, you are looking at near $45 per wheel you do bearings on. In all honesty, do it yourself in a couple of hours. The first time is always a learning curve. My rig has 2" strut lifts that the PO welded on which threw a major curve ball for me when it came to reinstalling the ball joint and I had to go buy a strut tool to compress it 2". Oh, and don't go light on the grease either. The bearings that I pulled out were definitely lacking in the lube department and I thing that was the cause of catastrophic failure. My cage exploded and my race shattered in half. I am certain it was due to improper installation and low grease which helps to remove heat from the system also. One last tip: A 1" or so wooden dowel works amazing to get the bearings out of the knuckle. I pounded for a good amount of time with various objects before I discovered this. Also, clean one of the old bearings out (very clean) and use that to install the new ones instead of buying expensive bearing installer equipment. Good Luck!

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=77491 This is a life saver. I just did mine this weekend for about $45. It is easier than it might seem to replace your bearings.

Ok thanks. I will check the radiator and cap, as well as do a pressure test.

forgot to mention that I lost the overflow tank lid, so I used some duct tape and a ziptie to close it off. not sure if this is important

I have been trying to defeat the everlasting overheating problem, with no luck, since I bought this car! I have tried to find all the leaks and have fixed them. The last one was the intake manifold gaskets. Still over heating. I have flushed the system and I thought I properly "burped" the system, but it sounds like there is still some "swish, swish, swish" noise under the dash. When the engine is cool, if I pop the radiator cap, the overflow tank is completely full (overflows when engine is hot) and the radiator needs some more antifreeze. I have done a compression test and this is what I got: 1)130 3)110 2)120 4)120 I hope this doesn't indicate a head gasket issue. There is no foam or bubbles in the coolant, the exhaust doesn't smell like coolant, I am totally at a loss on this one. Please help. The last thing to do is to replace the thermostat I guess.

I just started pulling apart the intake on my loyale spfi to do intake manifold gaskets due to a leak. I also have valve cover gasket leaks that I was planning on ignoring, but I pulled the hose on top of the valve cover on the driver's side and there is a milkshake in there. is it ok to leave or do I need to replace this asap? Also head gaskets seem to be fine.

I should have one of those 2" lifts coming up for sale soon. It is currently on my EA82 Loyale, so I don't know if it will fit on your Brat. I bought the car with the 2" lift and I heard that Bill (TheBeastIDrive (509) 391-5903) made it. You gotta call him to talk to him. Anyway, I'm buying a larger lift, so when it arrives and gets installed, I can let you know if you are interested in my 2" lift and you can save some money.

assuming all goes well, I will be purchasing and installing a 3" kit very soon to replace my 2" lift kit. Pretty much all it entails is 2" blocks to drop the front shocks and a 2" piece of steel to drop the rear struts. The lift accounts for the 15* off set also. 2" is the max you can go before you have to start dropping the subframe and extending the steering linkage, etc. If you want, I will pm you when my 2" lift becomes available (should be 2-3 weeks).

So I have not had time to work on the car for a while, but I finally got around to doing a compression test. I got the engine hot, pulled the plugs, pulled the fuel pump fuse, propped the throttle open, and cycled the engine at least 4 times if not more. These are the results I got (Correct me if I'm wrong, but cylinder 1 is passenger side front, 3 is passenger side rear, 2 is driver side front, and 4 is driver side rear): 1)130 3)110 2)120 4)120 My gauge does not have a detailed scale, so these are close, but not exact. I know the numbers are supposed to be within 10% of each other, but how is this defined? Also, are these numbers acceptable? Cylinder 3 seems low, but I really don't know. I'm hoping these numbers tell me I don't have a head gasket issue. Just want to make sure before I start to work on the car this weekend.

I know nothing about carbs...so can't help you there. However, I had a similar mouse infestation, in fact, a terrible one. The vents were so plugged with nesting that no air would come out and the stench was horrible. Removing the dash is a PITA, but a must. I searched around on the internet some and found that pinesol is supposed to be the best. It cleans, sanitizes and helps the smell in one. I wiped everything down with it and it is now much better, but the AC radiator and heater core were the worst. I was not able to completely clean them out, but did the best I could. If those are bad, I would recommend replacing them when they come out because mine still stink a little. Also, for carpet and seats, got to Petco and get Nature's Miracle. The stuff is all natural and chemical free. It seriously works wonders on animal smell and stains. Best of luck, Nick

do I need new head bolts? I know they are generally recommended. Also since this is my first time, what should I expect with the cams and lifters, etc? It sounds like they can easily make this job a PITA. Oh, and valve stem seals?? I feel like i waqnt to replace these since I am in there already..opinions? Any tips other than noting positions and using assembly grease for reassembly?

hey I'm going to bump this up. I got some great info here, but I am still not sure about the whole valve thing. Will it be too much of an issue for me to just slap (properly, not a crap job) the head gaskets on and call it good? I assume there is a possibility that low compression could be due to the valves, but it it really that important to do?

I just did the water pump, camshaft seals and o-rings, crankshaft seals, oil pump seals, and timing belt kit about a month ago. I think I may have done something else too, but I can't remember...it wasn't anything big. Thanks for the awesome info. A valve job? what's that? Are there any procedures for head gasket replacement on here? Miles, do you have anything like one of those videos?

For starters, I am going to be replacing my intake manifold gaskets on my 92 SPFI Loyale PB 4x4. I have a known coolant leak there which is causing annoying isssues. Since I am also having subtle symptoms of HG issues, I was considering changing those at the same time along with valve cover gaskets. My symptoms are immediate pressure in coolant reservoir, disappearing coolant, rough idle, a very small (hardly noticeable) amount of oil in coolant and milkshake under oil fill cap (oil still looks brand new after 1000 miles though). So I should probably do a compression test to find out for sure, but I really don't want to have to take the intake stuff off and fix that to find out later that I have to do it again plus HG's. I also feel that it would almost be better to just do them since I will have done just about every other seal on the car. What do you think? I have never done HG's before, but I think it would be fun just to learn. I do not plan on taking the engine out to do it nor do I plan on resurfacing the heads. Any pointers on how to do this are much appreciated. I believe in learn by doing and sometimes that is the hard way, but he who learns from his mistakes is a wise man.

I have 2 pdf files where it gives all p/n's and procedures for this retro issued from Subaru. PM me your e-mail if you want them because it wont let me attach them here.

I have had a terrible grinding sensation on the driver's side of my 91 Loyale pb 4x4 since I bought it. I assumed this was a wheel bearing since it went away or changed as I turned the car and I really wasn't worried about it. Then about a week after I bought it, I noticed the boot on the passenger side axle (the boot by the transmission) was flinging grease everywhere in the engine bay. I looked for a tear in the boot, but I wasn't able to find one, although I did notice that the boot was creeping up a little on the shaft. I left it alone and in the meantime replaced the belts, idler, tensioners, oil pump seals, water pump, camshaft seals, and crankshaft seals. Anyway, the grinding seemed to get worse on the wheel bearing and that maybe it also started to grind on the passenger side too. Then, yesterday, I was driving home and all of a sudden, the passenger side got this terrible squealing or screaming sound (rotating metal being forcefully scraped on another metal surface) that is somewhat intermittent and only happens while the wheels are rotating. when this noise is made, it seems like the grinding noise goes away. I really don't know where to start on this one. Is there any way to check my axles to tell if they are bad without tearing the car apart?

driver's side front wheel bearing severely grinding, passenger side axle is screaming it's bloody head off, intake manifold gaskets piss coolant like a fish drinks water, and EGR solenoid isn't working.

test run...

[quote name=Concerning the photos' date=' why post a link instead of putting it in the post? I'm just curious because photobucket takes FOREVER to load on my dialup![/quote] I can't figure out how to do that. Didn't really spend time with it sorry. If you tell me how, I will start doing it though. And thanks for the info, I will be ordering it soon.

Thanks for the idea Nickolai. I found the leak:banana:, or at least a small one. I'm not sure how much damage or problems this causes, but hopefully not much. http://s748.photobucket.com/albums/xx125/nickmohrbacher/91%20Subaru/?action=view&current=IMAG0488.jpg Could you tell me what gasket this is that I need to replace along with any others that I should do while taking care of this issue?