The FNG

Yup... I was one of the interested parties. My soob has a low-end 2" lift and 28" tires, so every time I hit a bump my back tires rub bad (I bought it this way). Anyway, Just put my lift money down on a house, so it's gonna have to wait.

No chewing on the wiring was done, just a ton of insulation and poop in the air ducts and heater core. I had to remove the dash to get to it and clean it all though. I never had a problem before, but who knows. I will try the light trick and see how that goes.

So... I just completely disassembled and cleaned my dash due to a rodent problem. I put it back together, hooked up the wire harness, and started the car right up, everything worked fine:banana:, but now the CEL blinks instead of being steady. Went out the next morning, and the car was dead:mad:. I jumped the battery and the car started up within 2 seconds of being hooked up:banana:. Turned the car off, started just fine, no lights or anything on. Turned the car off, waited half an hour, and it was dead:mad:. repeated and even drove the car around for half an hour with the same results:mad:. The only difference between the wiring before the dash is that I ripped out the old pos tape deck and the wiring harness is just hanging out of the dash. I also have four unused clips under the dash (small blue one, brown, white and green) all male ended. I don't know where to start here, guys. Is it possible it could be the wiring harness for the radio? Or (just got this idea:rolleyes:) maybe the wrong harness adapters are in the wrong spot? Could I get some pics please? --drivers and passengers side? Thanks so much!

Tore out the dash and found a huge mouse nest...no mice...this thing has been in there a long time. In the process of cleaning/disinfecting. What a Pain!

That's the one. Thanks for the help.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=110546 Check this out. It is something I have been looking to do on my loyale.

I have been searching and am having issues finding an LSD thread. I thought I found one a while back detailing all the options, but no luck finding it again. I am interested in doing a clutch style LSD swap for my 91 Loyale. I think it has 3.90 gears in the rear I will have to check. So, what options do I have, what models and years carried them, and how much should I expect to pay for one. I know they are hard to find, but I'm gonna try!

Ok, sweet. I didn't realize you could lower it like that. I thought you were just talking about the little handle you can use to raise and lower it while sitting in the seat. I will def. do that tomorrow.

I tried lowering it and didn't have any luck, but I will try it again. Removing the dash is a PITA so by the time I got to this point I was already frustrated and decided to call it a day.

Ok. What is the best way to get it off? I haven't really looked at it yet. Also, I really don't even know what the heater core is or where to find it. How do I check it?

I am in the process of removing my dash (91 Loyale). I decided to do this because the guy I bought the car from was a smoker and it also smells like a rat died in the air ventilation system. Aside from all this, I am trying to fix all of his home wiring issues. So I figured I would remove it, clean it, and rewire it. I have the dash almost all the way off, but I cannot get it over the steering wheel. Do I have to remove the steering wheel too?

Definitely interested in a 4" EA 82 lift. Could you please let me know the group price?

I just bought a 91 Loyale with a 2" BO Monster lift and 28" BFG Mudders. It looks great and has a lot of clearance, but the suspension is so soft that the tire easily rubs the mud flap. I really don't want to have to remove the mud flap and cut the fender. Is there anything I can do to improve this without much work or $$$? I have seen a thread in here about swapping in some Accord springs and 4 Runner struts to stiffen it up, but that would still leave the same clearance and issues. I really don't want to drop money into a 4" lift, although I would love to have one. I know the 4" lift has a plate that drops the rear diff. Is this plate an option for me, is there more to it, or would it just be stupid? Thanks, Nick

They may fit, I just don't know if the amp rating on them is correct. According to my schematics, the green one is supposed to be a 20A fusible link. I guess my Chilton's manual could be wrong...won't be a first.

Honestly, I think Simple Green pretty well in a concentrated form. And it will not kill you if you breathe it in.

Yup! I just took a look at my battery connections and found they were very loose and rusy. Spent a minute with a wire wheel and a wrench and it solvrd all my issues.

I guess I really don't understand how you got this part: 10ga. - 30amps 12ga. - 20amps 14ga. - 15amps 16ga. - 7.5amps I came up with different wire gauges according to the cross sectional area of the wires based on the link you gave me and the picture posed in this thread. I also don't see how you found the amperage rating for each gauge. Sorry for doing this to you, I just want to understand what I'm doing before I do it. Could you help me out?

Which fusible links would be replaced with what size of fuse? I think the green one is specified at 20A in my Chilton's manual, but the rest of them are not.

I will have to look at it tomorrow. I will post back on here what I get. Hopefully it is something as simple as that. Thanks for the help.

I'm having similar issues...working on a solution. What did you find?

Ya, I've been reading other posts and it seems to be one of many possibilities. It could just be that it was a cheap battery, bad starter, fusible link, voltage regulator, bad connection, etc... I guess I gotta narrow it down. the fusible links look old, but are not melted or anything (have not checked resistance), the car started easily with a jump, so I really have no idea. I think the battery is just not charging.

No, it's the cheapest battery from Schuck's

So I just bought a new battery and everything seemed to be fine until today. I drove to the gym and the car had power to the inside, but made a click noise like a battery does when it is dead. Luckily I was parked next to an autoparts store and they tested my 5-day old battery and told me it was bad. I got a jump and made my way home. What would cause my battery to die like this? My volt meter says around 12v and when I try to start, it just drops. No spikes or crazy things like that.

Thanks guys. I'll check the fusible links and the ignition switch. The battery is less than a week old, so I know the terminals and connectors are good.

So I just bought a 91 Loyal wagon with a 2" lift and 28" mudders. It's a great wheeler but ii am having issues with the dc power once I kill the car. Sometimes it starts just fine but other times as soon as the car is turned off, there is no dc power to lights or anything and I have issues getting her to start again. My first guess is a short because of the intermittent power loss, but I really have no idea where to start on this one. Is this a common issue? If anyone has any ideas, please help. Thanks, Nick