Nico

I got my 2015 Subaru Impreza STi shift knob, looks good in red match my horn button now.

no worries there will be more once I figure out the rest of the sizes to mix and match today my Nolathane bushings came in for my Subaru XT6 control arms, for people that never heard of Nolathane, there the owner of Whiteline which is more popular in north america then in Australia but the boys down under know all this all ready lol. Now I'm waiting for my other bushings from SuperPRO which should cover the rest of my underside bushings and give me that firm more responsive ride around the race track this year. Nolathane # 46200 direct swap made with the shell

So I been collecting parts for my car now do to everything being Super RARE or no longer available (NLA) from Subaru any more. just in case I bend something or I need to replace something, some of the stuff is still getting sand blasted and powder coated. front control arms bushings XT6 only white line # W51458. you must melt out the XT6 bushing and re use the BUSHING shell (not the bolt shell in the center) for this to work. top corner in Pic is bushing and shell there rear mustache bar on the older Subaru's also have a bushing that can be replaced with a white line part number # W91379. this part fits on all new Subaru's T bar holding the diff up. to make this bushing work you must burn out your old metal shell that the bolt goes into, then drill out the white line bushing to the same size as the bolt shell. pic bushings is in center XT6 control arms you can see them. there will be more bushing's coming to firm up the ride on my car, I need to measure them still and cross fit from a newer Subaru once all stuff comes in.

lol ya i should have limited the fourms but to late now I guess people like to see it and what i'm doing on it now thank you !! If I come down again ill send you a pm, maybe in a couple months i have to come back down for some visiting again. got lots of parts coming in for my toy very excited to fix the little problems and add some new updated bits to make this car more fun a race track this year. I found a nice GL-10 Turbo cross member from the local scrap yards had it sand blasted and powder coated black for that long lasting effect. also did the USMB washer weld on trick to re locate the control arms a bit further out so I wont have rubbing binding problems any more with the XT6 control arms. here you can see the old hole with new hole my spare Bosch 044 came in (might use this for my other build going on will see) and my arp head studs 625+ for the spare motor, still waiting for the new subaru crankshaft to come in from subaru japan to build the block which wont be much longer.

well back in the day i had a all stock ecu 1991 5mt legacy turbo specific ecu to that year and 5mt that the chip could pop out like the jdm ej20g ecus had. or else the chip is soldered in the other years and makes.. i have like a box full of ej22t ecus laying around... i even have the stock chip from 1991 5mt legacy, i had someone tune my car and he had blank chips. dont mind my youth full days of trying to type and put together words lol http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=26571&hilit=+ecu+chip

you a crazy man !

i have these tools, and the jdm ones very good tools and worth the money if you do a couple a year.. my dad uses the old timing belt with huge vise grips to hold both wheels in place then braker bar... its getto but 15 years like that all ways worked for him, till i got these tools for him and me of course lol.

i have a 1986 subaru gl-10 turbo ea82t with power steering factory oem like that part number 31200GA661 can i swap out that power steering rack for the MANUAL STEERING, W/O VGR ? 31200GA311 will the steering joint spline work with the manual steering rack same years same cars same models.. has anyone done this ?

my new momo prototipo steering wheel, its got that old vintage look more boost with race fuel and a tune fore some real power.

thank you you must smoke the tires right up in 3rd gear with that no ?... your car has to be super light with out all the awd stuff, my gl-10 started life in fwd it was quick for a old car.

is it summer yet ??

If I remember right I was using like 10L of water, the extra water is in a waiting section to be cooled down, the more water the less heat soak and the less time to cool it... my set up was running only on 70% or 80% throttle... I think if you just add the water tank for more water you would be perfect in the dead heat of summer. the best person to talk to about this would be my buddy, he will steer you in the right direction. email him franz @ dieboldautosport . c o m

the problem with my set up was I wanted more power and the air to air is just more efficient in the end... but for your set up it should work perfect for your needs. where is your water box reservoir ? if you add a water box you would be able to chill allot more.. I think your good just with that water box, thats a ej20g motor your using right ? i was thinking of that a/c cooling thing and my good buddy told me not to do it.

if i am reading all this right.. you guys have a program to tune the ej22t computer ?

dam good job you did

if I painted my car yellow id call it a bubble beast also !.

lol my bad ! bumble beast....

Looking good the bubble beast ! keep it up

I haven't tried to install it yet because its winter in Canada.. And Boy O Boy is it winter up here this year lol.... in the summer ill be installing the rad, i'm just comparing it to the GL rad for now.. but the inlet port has a slight angle very small not like the GL point up to the hood, ill take a picture of it flat on the floor.... but in the GL and XT6 the rads sit on a angle pointing back which will straighten out in the end.. I don't see any reason why it wont fit with the same Rad Fans.. my Fans are mounted on the steal bracket and don't sit close to the fins on the rad... but with a double core like this one they will sit perfect maybe 2mm away from the fins. the rad is the same size as the GL just double core... the end tanks are the same size with out the large ports.. the spare motor I'm making is so I can have the car for sure in the summer if something goes wrong like last summer I wasted.. here is my water pump set up, this pump is for a non turbo Subaru "1990 Subaru Legacy 2.2L NA". There is a couple things special to this water pump which works perfect in my build. The black pipe is coolant heater core pipe single, and the hose adapter is H6 ez30 little back ground on the design The EJ257 and EJ255 engines are using a low cost stamped impeller water pump that is inferior to this JDM spec closed back cast impeller water pump. The stamped impeller pump is less efficient and more susceptable to cavitation. We suggest installing a closed-impeller pump on any performance or motorsport Subaru engine build so besides the cast impeller, the inlet port is huge which should help a bit more with coolant flow. on a turbo water pump there is 3 nipple ports... 1 oil cooler... 2 swirl pot... 3 heater core... now because I'm not using a swirl pot and have a rad cap on the rad I can delete that nipple port & the pipe all together. also my oil cooler has no coolant going into it any more so that port can be deleted also, because of the use of the JDM spec-C S204 adapter.

here is the spare EJ22T ill be using and its V9 JDM heads rods pistons all on a wheelie cart lol... this motor will get all the new plugs and JDM oil cooler.

you guys call the subaru XT6 a Subaru Vortex... look for the h6 version vortex thats the rad ill be using... the XT6 rad is the same size as a ea82t the end tanks are the same size but with the bigger ports... the xt6 is a dual core not single core. it looks like ill un bolt the top and bottom mount from the ea82t rad and do the same for the xt6 rad and swap them out so it mounts the same spot. i can order more in canada if you want me to order and ship you them... i dont know how many more there is left but we can try thank you.... its a project / hobby I guess and here we have 2 EJ22T blocks out of 9 cleaned and ready for the shelf for when the time comes, lets hope no more broken motors for 2014 season..

I been slacking on my updates, but most my parts are in for the spare EJ22T motor. i decide to get all new case bolts washers caps pretty much everything lol. also got a new weather stripping for the hood, the original one had a small tear in it. also picked up the original stickers for my rear doors, i have turbo on the door from factory but my car was a FWD not AWD... so i have to give it the subaru justice of the AWD.

ya those louvers are nuts

lol thanks man glad you liked it, sorry i distracted you

thank you very excited about this radiator ! its a brand spanking new OEM Subaru 1988 Subaru XT6 2.7L H6 Radiator, its 2 core and also has the proper port size for inlet also outlet as a new EJ motors use. it's also a perfect match to my EA82T turbo radiator, same size same width same cap location same mount points and also XT6 rad hoses to complete the job. I wish I new all this from the start of the build, but it sure is going to be sweet next summer on the race track to do more laps in the heat, also the spal fans will bolt up in the same position as the gl-10 turbo mt rad. with the bigger radiator and my oil cooler this should complement the motor very well now. and my new trunk seal which took a long time maybe it was made for me in japan but it came in also oem subaru for that perfect fit, i had a small rip in mine that i didnt like.