ferret

Not familiar with the SVX directly, but does it have a cam belt? The hydraulic tensioner on 90 2.2 and later 2.5's have been known to make this noise when cold. On the 2.2 and 2.5 the tensioner is just to the left front center of the engine. Very easy to hear and troubleshoot if you remove the left front timing belt cover. The fix for these is to replace them. If not a tensioner, could be the harmless, but dreaded 'piston slap'. Just a few more thoughts....and $.02

EXPENSIVE...But check out the rear load leveling shocks on the 05 LL BEAN Forester. They should bolt right on your 03.

Glenn, I did have that problem with my 02 Forester. Had to bend the hinges outward every so often. Putting a covered screwdriver shaft in the top of the door on the hinge side and gently bending the hinge outward while closing, then doing the same from the bottom. Gets Frustrating.

Should be covered by your insurance, if you have comprehensive coverage.

Just came across this. Have seen a few here who have had problems with their clocks...$43.99 shipping included .... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2481381076&category=33673

Other than a Junk yard, it's still listed here for $105 + $25 for the housing. http://www.subaruwrxparts.com/forester.html

Howard, Subaru p/n 83119FC130 . To remove the housing, there were 3 phillips head screws from the bottom. Then the top and bottom are 'snapped' to each other, just pull them apart. The rest is to disconnect the headlight switch connecter, then disconnect the wiper switch and remove it with the 2 screws. Then reassemble in the opposite way. It is really simple.

Howard, I did thid on my 2002 Forester L. Just go to a dealer and buy the 'S' model wiper control. Takes 15 minutes to replace. Just remove the top and bottom housing on the steering column, then unplug the headlight switch (wires run right by the wiper switch and are in the way). Then unplug and replace the wiper switch. 2 small phillips head screws. About $75 new for a switch, or cheaper from a junk yard.

I live in northern NJ and my 22 year experiences include: 5 Subarus 2 Saabs Geo Tracker 2 Caravans 2 Toyotas None overheated or came close, No radiators plugged (externally) or leaky condensers. As I said these have been my experiences, and for me they have been worth the few extra dollars for the screen material and nylon ties. To each their own.

I get a piece of replacement storm door screen from a hardware store. I make sure its non metallic (no aluminium or steel). Then usually cut it to fit just in front of the radiator/condenser. Then I replace the grill allowing the top and center to hold it in place. Finally I use nylon wire ties to fasten the bottom to a cowl/support/anything nearby. May not prevent all failures, but sure does stop bugs from clogging or a chemical reaction from their guts from eating away something more expensive.

AFTER THE FACT.....Since 1982 in each car/truck my wife and I have owned, right after I take delivery, I removed the grill and installed a piece of nylon/fiber screen right in front of the radiator/condenser. Then when the engine called for a major maintainence interval (like the timing belt), I replace the screen material. Total cost <$5 every few years. Knock on wood....No radiator, condenser failures since I started doing this. My $.02

Howard, Here's another site.....for a fraction (1/4) of the price. http://www.mjmautoinnovations.com/subaru.htm The forester uses the "universal adapters".

Both the 2.2 and the 2.5 have had phase 1 and phase 2 implementations. The 2.5 is easier to tell, as described it obviously went from DOHC to SOHC, as well and many internal changes. The 2.2 is Difficult if not impossible for the average owner. About 1999, the went to solid lifters, changed the valve angles, increased compression, shortened the piston skirts and became an 'interference' engine. I do have an 84 pg PDF file (3.6meg) which describes the evolution of the 2.2 phases as well as the 2.5. Send me a message and I will reply with the .pdf attachment.

I put a $14 one in my 2002 Forester. It was just a replacement shift shaft. Shorter and the shift linkage hooked a little higher on it. Throws were definately shorter, and shifting was more 'crisp'. No more rubberery feeling of the longer factory shifter. Only down side was the are no insulators on the short shaft. It attached with the bolt thru a roller bearing assy, so you could feel the engine and tranny vibrations more thru the shift assy. But I am pleased and would spend the $14 again......Fould it on Ebay.

$88 USA delivery.....$93 in Canada.....Have had it for 3 years now.....Works GREAT.... http://obddiagnostics.com/

Lifters Noisy is Normal.... As for the Dust/Brush cover (Skid plate would be Steel), Remove the 2 plastic snap fasteners (1 in the front part of each front wheel well). Pop the center out with a small screwdriver then pull out the housing. Then remove the 2 bolts toward the front of the cover (just below the radiator) and the 2 bolts from the rear (fastened to the center support plate. Then the cover comes right off.

My Neighbor had the same results. Returned for replacement...Same....returned for credit. Now he comes to see me and I read his for free using the adapter I purchased 4 yrs ago for $75. Hooks to an old 486 laptop I have. works great on ALL OBDII protocols. http://obddiagnostics.com/

Mike, the 98 is the ONLY year the Forester was DOHC, so a manual there, especially for cam seals is not the way to go. EBAY has a CD-Rom for the 99-04 for a buy-me-now price of $14.99. I bought one of these for my wife's Highlander. After getting used to using and searching in Adobe Acrobat, I like it better than the full hardcopy. Seems I can search on a word, phrase or code, then print the pages I need. If I get them oily or greasy, well.....I can just reprint them. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7900137373&category=6762&sspagename=WDVW

Hope this helps...There should be a JPG...But I can't attach it This is from the TSB....I have this replacement and as RTP says in a thread here, It is STILL great a year later..... Flywheel is 12342AA061 Cover is 30210AA590 Disk is 30100AA851 Bolts(8) are 800610740 This is for the 2.5L

Glenn, Very Common. you have 5 choices: 1) Ignore it 2) Replace it with a Battery Stick-on one. Difficult to see at night. 3) Replace it with a Dealer Only Part 4) Get one from a Junk Yard 5) Watch Ebay, the entire overhead consoles are usually out there. However, none today. I have an '02 Forester.....One of the many 'nits' I'm also waiting for.......

Go here.......Used these guys since 1985...They are just a few miles East of Danbury, Ct. http://www.fsautoparts.com/ Also try Ebay, there's a Passenger Front door there now for a 96 starting at $49 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33642&item=2468659394

Every WRX is an Interference, as well as ALL 2.5L, and all 2.2L built since 1999 (more acute valve angle on late build 2.2L). In otherwords, Every Subaru engine built since 1999 IS. I don't like it, so please don't shoot the messenger. (wish I had my ol' 1990 2.2L in my Forester)

Search EBAY for Subaru Mass.. There's a used one there today with No Bids..Starting at $5

Endwrench has a problem like you describe documented. Thought I saw it over there: http://www.endwrench.com/pdf/drivetrain/DiffOilLeakInfoS01.pdf

Check out the Endwrench pdf file... http://www.endwrench.com/pdf/engine/FtTimingBeltReplaceF00.pdf