ferret

I have owned both, Drive each and access your needs. For me currently, the Forester is Fun to drive, corners better and the little taller cargo area works for me now. Had a 90 Legacy LS wagon previously (miss the 2.2L, still feel it was a more reliable engine than the current 2.5). But at the time I had the 90 Legacy and the 98 Forester came out, I thought 'Who would ever buy one of those?'.......Well I did a few years later. (Be careful what you say or wish for.........)

If the fill assy is the same as a Forester, there is a vent valve assy that is opened by inserting the gas nozzle in the filler tube. It then 'vents' the tank fumes to the charcoal canister during refueling. On the 99-01 Foresters this was a problem reported by some owners. Dealers who had seen it, replaced the valve assy. Those who didn't had the owners go elsewhere, or to a board like this to get the answer to take to the dealer. Endwrench has the following writeup...... http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/VehicleWont.pdf

Either put out the $300-400 from the dealer, or go to Ebay. From time to time someone puts up a CD-Rom which has the Factory Manuals on it. Usually $20-40.

I also have the same small filter on my 04 Forester (7th Subaru, owning them since 1977). All have been about the same size......until NOW. The metal banded strap wrenchs do not get small enough for this new filter. And the mentioned one that cams in doesn't either (I'm local mechanic and do work on many vehicles). This is the smallest I have come by yet. Also get a kick out of the silk screen letters "engine oil" on the top, as not to get confused with the auto tranny filter which looks idential on the outside. Used to do the screwdriver method when all else fails, makes a mess, but one SAAB I did, it just tore up the filter housing and took me over 6 hrs to get the base off without any thread or mating base damage (there I suspect someone used RTV). I went to the local PEP Boys here in NJ. They had a cap wrench which fit the Factory size filter. But Beware, the Purolator and other aftermarket filters are a different slightly larger diameter, so your newly acquired wrench ONLY fits the factory Subaru filter. The previous pur 14460 is still larger, can be used in a pinch for NON-Turbo applications according to a Subaru Memo, but they are really pushing the newer smaller filter. My $.02 and experiences.

inspect 30K, replace 105K

I TOO, living in NJ, am an Advocate for DRL. Added them to cars before they were deemed manditory. But they are not. (wish they were). BUT.....NJKAYAKER has a point, there are many things I disagree with but we do live in a free country and the Impreza/Forester has to be the easiest DRL to disable. USE THE FOLLOWING INFO AT YOUR OWN RISK....as the lightsout site states !! On the passenger front strut is mounted the dropping resistor with a tag on it about Caution High temp or something like that, simply unplug it. If you do NOT like DRL, then visit a site http://www.lightsout.org/ I don't agree with them, but as I stated, I WILL Agree to disagree......Been married a long time.....Don't always agree with things at home either, but there we seem to comprimise.

I noticed that also. In 03, the Turbo's got the smaller (diameter) filter. The N/A 2.5's used the standard. Now in 04 and later, all get the smaller filter. It is made of a different filter material inside. I'm sorry, I don't have the spec's. I would think it has better spec's since the turbo model already used it. Subaru has a notice to their dealers also, the older filter can be used on a N/A 2.5 if the newer one is not available and still keep the warrenty in tact. So that made me think that they only wanted to get to one filter for all applications. However, I don't know what the 3.0-H6 uses. It was the same dimensions,(02 and earlier) but internally has a larger filter surface area. These will also do in a pinch on the H4 N/A engines. I haven't seen any notices about the 04/05 H6 oil filter. I do get a kick out of the silkscreen on the top of the filter (engine oil). I guess as not to confuse it with the tranny filter which is now about the same size too. As far as OEM filter, Purolator site lists the specs, but not the surface area. Both have an Anti-drainback valve. Curious though, the older has a relief valve set to 20-25, the newer valve is lower at 14-18. Also I noticed the small diameter was impossible to use my 30+ year old oil filter strap wrench on. It's just TOO darn small. I went and purchased a cap type wrench which fits a 3/8" rachet. Also note, the PUREONE version of the newer filter (Purolator 14612) has recently been redesigned. Seems in Cold climates, the filter seal FAILS and oil spews all arould the filter base after a very cold night. Not what I would like to wake up to. Hope it's fixed as I have used purolators for over 25 yrs now.

Here's the closest I can find on the web. A dealer in Ca selling one http://www.autohotline.com/public/dlrvdetail.asp?VEHICLE_NO=5373&DEALER_NO=5359 After reading more, now I wish I knew french as I found quite a few reviews in french, It sounds like the Canadian Version of the US Spec LL-Bean. An 'S' model with Dynastar touches thruout the interior. Hope this provides some help in your decision.

I agree, 1998 Forester was the only US spec year that used the DOHC. 1999 to present (Turbo excluded) US spec are SOHC phase II. Either your dealer has deceived you about the year, or someone replaced the 1999 SOHC with a DOHC which would also include 3 wiring harnesses and the ECM. As far as rear differentials, Only Forester S or T models have a rear LSD. L and X models do not. 1998-2002 L No rear LSD 1998-2002 S, S prem Rear LSD 2003-2005 X No rear LSD 2003-2005 XS, XS prem, XT or new LL Bean edition all have rear LSD

The 98 Forester was a unique Forester. It's the only DOHC Normally Asperated version 2.5L found in the Forester. The 99-2002 manuals would help in other areas, Transmission, body, most electrical etc. But a complete manual for the 98, to the best of my knowledge, is from the dealer. You may also want to try the online downloads often refered to on this board, where you pay $20 or $30 for a period to try to download as many of the manual sections you can find. the only drawback to these I see are a very strange naming convention, like MSA5TO124A27489 which is how to check the 2 dipsticks on the A/T.

Could be a clogged PCV valve or hose. Be sure it's operating properly. Also check the inside of the air filter housing. Remove the filter and look where the hoses connect from the valve covers. There is usually a small amount of oil residue here. If there is a lot, then the crankcase pressure is high due to either the PCV system not functioning properly, or worn rings which at 90K would be rare. I have seen many clogged PCV hoses or valves over the years causing high oil consumption. Most with little or no telltale blue smoke from the exhaust. Without any external leaks, or internal passage leaks (oil in antifreeze), then the engine is consuming the oil. You must then determine how it's getting into the combustion camber, maybe worn valve guides?

My 90 Legacy LS did have LSD. It also had Pneumatic suspension and an 'optional' dealer installed driver side ONLY airbag. My neighbor had a 91 LSI also with the same automatic and air suspension. Both did list the rear differential as NON-SLIP. If this was the same as later referred as LSD, so be it. But I was able to spin both rear tires and 1 front together in deep snow. Also had 4 channel antilock brakes (bosch if I remember correctly).

90 & 91 LS or LSI also had non-slip rear differential. I owned a 90 LS, neighbor at the time had a 91 LSI (leather interior). L and L+ as they were sold at the time were open differentials.

Forgive me.....My reference was to the Subaru 4 cylinders only...... I can not give any advice on the Subaru 6 cylinders.....absolutely no experience. Chevy L6 and V6, Mopar Slant6 and V6, Ford L6 and V6, Toyota L6 and V6.....YES.... Subaru Flat 6...Nope!

The EJ22 up to 1996 was a Non-interference engine. Part way thru the 1996 model year they modified the heads and did away with the hydraulic lash adjusters replacing them with solid rocker arms requiring check/adj at 105K. All 2.5's, ALL DOHC and ALL USA spec engines since 1997 ARE interference engines. I have a Subaru PDF history on the EJ from 1990 to 2003 and it's evolution. My 1990 Legacy LS snapped a belt at 98K (was replaced at 60K). Cause was seized water pump. (Early learning experience to replace pump at belt time). In any case, I had it flatbedded home and replaced pump and belt. No internal damage. My current 2004 Forester would not be so fortunate.

You are correct if this is a SOHC. The manual however shows 2 cams sensors on the DOHC. Both in the rear of the engine (tranny side). It also has a picture showing plug 1 on the drivers side. These are Subaru Factory manuals. That's why I asked about the engine. There are a few different types and sensors when it comes to the DOHC. Also depending on the year and sensor used, some DO get a 12v input form a set of contacts in the MAIN Relay. Another reason I asked about the engine. In this area the various versions of the SOHC is pretty much unchanged since it's introduction in the 90 legacy as a 2.2.

???? Is the 2000 Legacy a DOHC ???? If so there are 2 cam sensors. P0340 says cam sensor 1 on DOHC failed. This should be the one on the side with sparkplug #1 (Drivers side). P0345 is cam sensor 2, on the passenger side. (SOHC can ONLY get P0340). Be sure the it is the proper sensor. There are 2 types that I am aware of, and they are NOT interchangable. They ALSO receive 12v from a seperate set of contacts on the MAIN Relay found in the relay box under the hood. Hope this small bit of info helps.

Front Oxygen Sensor. I had these same sympyoms on my 02 Forester. My buddy on his 01 Outback. When it is in the failing condition, it's telling the ECU you are running too rich and shuts the injectors down. Happens AFTER warmup. Next time it acts up, open the hood and unplug the front O2 sensor. Yes this will set the Ck engine light, but the engine will now run in 'open loop' mode (preset pattern for fuel/air mixture). This will stop the bucking and you can safely get home. Only way with OBDII to even try to detect it is to map the front O2 sensor while driving in the failing condition. P.S. his outback was sooo bad it died on the interstate, it was flatbedded to the dealer. 1st time car started and acted normally, dealer blamed bad gas. 2nd time the front sensor was replaced by a technition who saw some unusual responses.

Biggest Subaru Salvage yard............ http://www.fsautoparts.com/

Defective (or missing) check valve. It's job is to keep fluid in the line so you don't have to prime it each time. But by adding a small amount of reverse pressure, it also prevents fluid from syphoning out, like when you hit the gas, a small amount drips from the nozzle, this causes a slight drop in line pressure and viola, it just starts a stream. On my 90 Legacy wagon, it was in the rear pilar under the plastic cover.

01/02 Forester.....65 ft lbs +/- 7......88 nm +/- 10......9 kg-m +/- 1...Take your pick of gauges. Had an 82 GL, Don't remember that torque.

Here's how the Forester lays out (bear with me, the manual does NOT state which is the main fan and which is the sub fan by position under the hood. I would assume from the diagrams that the Main fan is the one turned on by the engine temp, and the sub fan is the one turned on by the A/C. Either way, the circuits are IDENTICAL with swappable parts. Both fans are the same with the same connector so they can be swapped. Both relays are the same so they can be swapped (under hood in Power Dist Unit (black plastic box mounted along drivers fender behind battery). Relays are marked Main Fan and Sub Fan. Fuses to supply power to fan motors can be swapped. Both are also in the same Power Dist Unit under the hood. Both relays are turned on (grounded) by ECU....that could also be the problem. One last item on the Forester....Each fan relay has a seperate power feed.....Main fan relay is powered by fuse #18....Sub fan relay is powered by fuse#17. These are both in the fuse box in the passenger compartment behind the little storage tray just to the left of the driver. Look where your knee would be, open the tray then lift it up to remove it. It reveals the interior fuse box and fuses #17 and 18. Good hunting..If you need the schematic for the Radiator Fan System, please let me know, I will email you them in PDF form.

A buddy of mine just traded in his 98 Forester(2.5l DOHC). In prep for his timing belt job (was going to do it before he traded it), he purchased all his needed parts. He no longer needs them, so he 'sold' them cheap. Having a newer Forester (SOHC), I knew I couldn't use the belt, so I bought his new water pump. Now I ask, My SOHC calls for p/n 21111AA007, His box (and DOHC) calls for 21111AA110. They look the same. Is there really a difference, (mounting or molded ridges for plastic belt cover)? Does it have different flow(pumping) characteristics? Or will it bolt on? THANKS in Advance....

Cooling Fan Malfunction as stated in a Forester manual (should be the same), states, Engine Temp sensor HOT, ECU calls on Main Fan (and Sub fan if A/C is on) and 'picks' their relays. The engine temp sensor does NOT go below a set threshold within a specified time. (no idea here of temp or time given) Check to see that fans are running. (Fan motor or fuses) Maybe the Fan is sluggish (bad bearing) not giving enough air flow. Check to see that there are no obstructions causing air flow restrictions. That is to say, The cooling fans are NOT doing their job. The ECU monitors only the coil side of the relay. This must be how it monitors the fans themselves. Not much help, but maybe ensure there is air flowing thru the radiator and both fans are on with the A/C on.

If it's the same as the 2004 Legacy, or if it will fit, it's just over $57.... http://www.subaruparts.com/catalog/?section=431