ferret

Check out the Endwrench pdf file... http://www.endwrench.com/pdf/engine/FtTimingBeltReplaceF00.pdf

Canadian, My $.02 The 99 has the phase 2 engine, pretty reliable. Cold start you will hear some piston slap until it's warm. Some develop external coolant leaks (head gasket), but Subaru has just released a coolant additive to help prevent that. (earlier DOHC's have a different head gasket failure. These tend to be internal to the cylinder). If it's an Automatic, then it's pretty much in front wheel drive until you encounter slick conditions. The 5 speeds are in a 50/50 split all the time. Timing belt. tensioner, pulleys, water pump pretty much are done at 105,000 miles on this engine. Also a good time to check and tighten the oil pump screws and replace the front crank seal whiule your in there. I do prefer Michelins, I've gotten good use from them. I also have had oxygen sensor problems . 4 replaced so far.(I have a 2002 now with 54K). All were repaired under warrenty. None since the last at 35K. As far as dino vs synthetic's.......That's an ongoing discussion here. For my part, it's pretty much up to the owner and their wallet. If you buy it, Good luck. Subaru's have been good to me. The 2002 Forester is my 5th starting with a plain 78DL.

Have the dealer check, There is a ECU 'Flash' upgrade for this code, but I think it applied to 2000 and 2001.

Not including VDC or WRX, you are correct on Subaru AWD. Automatic: the TCU (Transmission Control Unit) has rotation sensors on the FWD input shaft to the front differential and another on the output tailshaft to the rear differential. When it detects a difference, a current is applied to the center differential fluid causing it to 'gel' and effectively lock-up. 2 things to note here. The Automatic IS in Front wheel drive in most conditions. Lockup drives front and rear. Front differential is an 'open' differential so only 1 front wheel has power applied. NO LOCK-UP Differential in the front. Rear on MOST models is also an Open rear so only 1 wheel drives here also. Some models (Forester-S) get a lock-up rear. So with a Lock-up rear differential you effectively can drive 3 wheels at once. But most Subaru's drive only 2, 1 front and 1 rear. The Standard 5 speed has a mechanically lockup front/rear differentail in the transmission tailshaft. This has been said to provide a 50/50 split. Once again it drives the wheel with the least resistance. Once it has a speed differential from front to rear, the silicone sealed fluid 'shears' and heats quickly to allow minimum slip from front to rear. The front and rear differentials work as with the Automatic, that is Most Subaru's drive only 1 front and 1 rear in AWD situations. Hope these explainations help in your understandings and discussions.

The "smell" is normal for this organic clutch. It may be enviromentially friendly, but it 'shutters' when cold or damp and has an 'odor' when hot. Kinda like organic natural people. (each are entitled to their own lifestyle). But after driving a standard shift for over 35 yrs, I like the replacement non-organic clutch in my 02 Forester. Just wish it wouldn't yell at me so much when I wake it up on cold mornings (Piston Slap).

On the Forester, I removed the upper and lower plastic housing around the steering wheel, Then unplugged the switch and removed 2 screws and it was out. Replacement was just as easy. Now .......-------.......------- Voila...variable speed intermittent wipers.

within 20 miles of Hardyton are: Salerno Duane Subaru 20 Route 206 N Newton, NJ 07860 973-579-5000 Distance 9.5 miles Loman Subaru 3469 Route 46 Parsippany, NJ 07054 973-335-1313 Distance 18.6 miles Wayne Subaru 2204 Hamburg Tpke Wayne, NJ 07470 973-835-4700 Distance 18.8 miles

Liberty Subaru in Ordell, back in the 1980's, opened another Subaru place in Sussex Cty, NJ, I think it was in Newton, NJ. One of the 2 brothers who own the entire dealership network, which now also includes Hyundai, moved out into Sussex at the time and still lives there. I would see if they are still there. I live just 15 minutes from Liberty in Ordell, NJ. If you have ever been to Paramus (Mall capital of the world, used to be listed in the Guniess books), Liberty is only 5-10 minutes away.

Jeff, Discussed regularly here. Here's the last discussion: http://usmb.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=10489&highlight=reader

Jeff, My neighbor bought one of those for his 97 Caravan, (Also OBDII ISO9141 protocol ) after a week of getting the same codes, I put my reader (hooks to a PC) on and he has a Misfire (code p0300 ). His reader still read 1 2 3 p 4 5 E as yours and each time it did clear the code and turn off the CEL (check engine light). Only to have it come back later that day or the next. My own advise is to get the code read with a reliable scanner. P.S. he returned the Harbor freight one, they refunded the $49 but not his shipping.

Bought one of these 4 yrs ago.............Works great on Fords', GM's , Dodge's Subaru's, Toyota's and BMW's. At that time it was $69 us. I hook it to an old 486 laptop running off a lighter adapter and can plot sensors also as I drive. Best $69 tool I bought in a while. Now it's $88 for US delivery. My $.02 http://obddiagnostics.com/

herbob, Check out the Edmund's Forester board: http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/WebX?14@109.gQszbOq3etK.3@.ee94fe5 There are quite a few Forester XT owners/fanatic's there. I feel sure they can answer you questions. As far as Interference, this has been discussed here at length. ALL 2.5's ARE INTERFERENCE ENGINES. This is included in a letter I rec'd from Subaru about an inquiry. The SOHC has the valves at a lower angle than the previous 2.2, so there is 'negative' clearance on full compression and valve opening. In plain english, valve open piston coming up, SMASH. DOHC have the same engineering as well as each cam being independently driven from the cam belt. So for example the intake is open (extended) and the exhaust opens fully, it WILL hit the intake and one or both will be damaged as well as the valve guides and head itself depending on the force applied.

Ebay 49.25 for 95-99 legacy/outback. Your choice of which side !! http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33644&item=2453976773

In the service manual, the Ignition lock/cylinder/switch are one assembly that doesn't come apart. To remove the assembly, they say to remove the Steering column. This gives you access to the 2 'security' bolts reached only from the top. It states to drill these out. Then replace the ignition assy with a new one which comes with a new clamp and 2 one way (screw in only) security bolts. This may not be the answer you want to hear, but this is what the Subaru Service manual states.

I've done this on an '02 Forester L model (S has variable speed intermittent). Just replace the wiper switch with the featured one. Cost me $72. Probably close to the same on the Outback.

My $.02, without the proper 'drift' tools, you will probably ruin the new bearings or housings. But what I would suggest is most machine shops are set up to do these. I would call around to find one, then remove the housings, take them to the shop and have them install the new bearings. Like back in the 60's when we had machine shops press on new rear bearings on RWD cars.

Sounds like a rear wheel bearing. Those I've heard sound like a steel caster rolling across a concrete floor.

Dave, since it's cylinder 1 & 3 misfire, Check the connectors on that side for the injectors. 12V is applied to them and the ECU then grounds the other side to activate them. I would start with checking the wiring harness or connectors. Then maybe swap injector 1 with 2 and see if the problem moves. I also can be a defective Cam or Crank sensor, but these are usually random cylinder failures, your sound pretty solid.

Not sure about the Legacy/Outback, but the Forester has a 14 pin connector. looking into the CAR connecter end, across the top are 3 pins, Locking tab, 3 pins. These are numbered 1,2,3,TAB,4,5,6. Across the bottom are 8 pins numbered 7 thru 14. Pin 14 supplys power to the Antenna amp. As described, looking into the 'face' of the connector on the car, it's on the lower right. On the 02,03 Forester the wire is Blue/Red tracer. On one's I've done, either use the Power Ant lead from the Radio, OR connect it to the ACC coming to the radio on lead #10, so the Antenna amp come on when the key is in the ACC position and suppling power to the radio. Hope this Helps......:-)

I put a large screwdriver thru the bolt hole from the transmission actuator. Then used a book or something to use as a fulcrum, then 'poped' it out.

I installed an aftermarket in my 02 Forester....IT's Great....Paid $20 for it on Ebay. Just took off console/boot and knob. Unbolted shifter actuator from shifter. Now here's the "hard" part...Popped the old shifter ball out of it's socket. Kinda like removing a 'turkey' leg. Used a Screwdriver in the bolt hole for leverage. Popped the new one in with a tap from a rubber mallet. Then put it all back together....15-20 minutes. Did it over a year ago and haven't looked back.:-p

1985 my brother introduced me to Rain-X. He was a pilot and they used it on their windscreens. Been a believer/user since.:-)

Last I had it on my 02 Forester, it was the Oxygen sensor. The Scan tool showed a slow response of the sensor which the ECM tries to compensate by opening the AIS valve more, but can't. My Experiences.....& $.02

Do a GOOGLE Search on Piston Slap. Canadian Driver has a good write up. It's a result of the 'improvements' on newer engines to lighten the piston by reducing the skirt length and changing the shape of the pistons especially alloy pistons, to allow for shape change going from cold start to operating temp. This accounts for why it happens cold and not warm. It does NOT damage the engine according to anything I have seen or heard or read. And ALL Mfgrs have their share of engine slap these days. Being Subaru has only the 4 and 6 at this time, the 4 definately has the problem. But Toyota, Ford, GM, Mopar, the list goes on....and so do the complaints. I don't like it, but it seems to be a way of life..........

This seems to affect the 01/02 models Legacy, Outback, Impreza and Forester. The point where the clutch slave actuator contacts the clutch fork has to be greased with a lithium type grease. If you use a standard grease or wheel bearing grease, the creak WILL come back. This is under the hood, below the air filter, on the drivers side. Push the actuator rod back into the clutch slave enough to allow you to clean the point of contact, them apply a small dab on lithium grease. Less than a 5 minutes job after you find where the clutch slave/release fork is. Then slowly push in the clutch pedal repeatedly about 1/3 of it's travel until it fills the slave and pushes the rod out to contact the release fork again. At this point you will feel pressure once again at the pedal. I caution against 'flooring' the clutch pedal as the seals may get damaged. Good Luck...:-)