ferret

Neutral Switch on the Trans...... Subaru ONLY part...... not expensive at all..... I have posted about it on USMB, but did a FULL WRITEUP quite a few years ago on the Forester Board: http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f89/neutral-switch-78655/#post870591

Runs when first started , then quits... A/C Clutch Clearance... covered many times here and other forums: http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f88/ac-runs-intermittently-04-forester-75562/#post848614

With all 4 cylinder misfires, and bad idle..... I still say IF you have an EGR, it MAY BE STICKING OPEN. When you start the car cold..... the EGR is not used..... AFTER warmup, the EGR functions. and THIS is when I had the BAD IDLE. I have seen this on Foresters and Outbacks..... after MAY a dealer handed the owner many bills and not fixing the problem, Especially on the electronic EGR. It has a stepper motor that pushes DOWN on the EGR plunger. but when the stepper returns, Electronically the ECM thinks it returned as the stepper motor DID. But the plunger with carbon built up on it does NOT , sticks open even at idle, and causes the low looping idle,,,,, and bad bad exhaust smell. http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f88/low-idle-stuttering-erratic-jerking-various-rpms-76450/index3.html#post887065

Your can does not have a MAF, it is a MAP engine. That's the last picture you unplugged on top of the throttle body. Long Long ago on MY04 Forester 5 speed I had something similar. Cold the engine ran flawlessly. After it warmed up, I had idle and misfire problems. My problem turned out to be the electronically controlled EGR. IF you have an EGR, it will be just to the right of the throttle body as you stand in front of he car ( drivers side). After so many miles, carbon builds up and when they open, they STICK and don't close. Check and see IF you have an EGR.

Just reading thru this thread.... To me All points to a failing, not yet failed, Alternator. Battery not fully charging,,,,,, not over 14V when running...... possibly a defective diode in the diode Trio injecting a small amount of AC into the system causing the bad idle..... But those are my observations just reading the symptoms as presented.... remember we can't touch, see, hear or test anything .... just read whats in the thread.

Not certain of this will fit the 98 or not, but I have used 3 of these to date. First was over 2 years ago without any failures. Only shortcoming is the smaller diameter nuts they send to use with the springs/donut flange end, Comes with 5 year warranty. So far very pleased. About $130 and $20 for shipping .... out of Canada,,,,, and shipping was very prompt. http://www.ebay.com/itm/2000-2005-Subaru-Outback-2-5L-Direct-Fit-Catalytic-Converter-with-Gaskets-/253163659384?hash=item3af1bae078:g:4cUAAOSwn-tZKdir

I installed a set a few years ago when our daughter had a 98 Forester, ALL LEAKED within the first year, Their lifetime warranty wanted them shipped back to them in the ORIGINAL boxes. I would pay shipping BOTH WAYS. I replaced them with something that was cheaper than the shipping...... shortly after sold the car, I did not have a good experience with them. YES I have had silver AND black KYBs. If I plan on keeping a car from now on, I will spend the few extra dollars for KYB, never had one fail yet,

2002 manual, does it have the HILLHOLDER ? If it does, the return spring is known for breaking locking a front wheel and opposite rear wheel. Hillholder is located under the hood, on the drivers side, mounted on the frame rail just below and to the front of the Master Cylinder, Spring is NOT a Subaru part, but the entire hill holder is and it's not cheap. Quick fix is to back-off the adjusting nut on the cable coming from the clutch pedal until it has NO effect, Then zip tie the Hillholder in place as if the clutch is NOT depressed. Unless you can find one in a junkyard and just get the return spring from it.

In late 2001 and early 2002 there were a run of DEFECTIVE oxygen sensors. The Front Sensor that is. If yours is original, read on. These fail AFTER the car warms up and is in CLOSED LOOP MODE. When cold, vehicle runs fine. When it gets warm, it starts shutting the engine off like you have a blocked fuel filter or the fuel pump is shutting off. The way to check this is either to have an OBDII scanner that can display LIVE DATA, and watch the FRONT Oxygen Sensor. If it all of a sudden goes RICH ( over 1v and stays there while the engine is stumbling ) , this SHUTS the injectors off and this is why the engine stumbles and seems to shut off. Another way is WHEN it's acting up, shut off the engine, open the hood and down on the passenger side UNPLUG the front oxygen sensor. THIS WILL SET A CHECK ENGINE code. puts the car in OPEN LOOP mode, and see if the cars can be driven WITHOUT the stumbling.. This is how we diagnosed quiet a few of these 10 plus years ago. Just another thing to check IF you have an original front oxygen sensor.

My experiences, I have not seen a GMB pulley fail. I have REPLACED them again at the next timing belt interval. I don't remember the brand on that cogged pulley that failed, but I DO remember the Gates kit changed from when I first started using them, and I charged them only for parts and head repair. I felt partially responsible for that one since I highly recommended the Gates kit at that time, That was a 2004 Forester XS. 6 bent valves..... I really felt bad for them. I am a backyard mechanic who helps people keep their cars going, when they can't afford a dealer or garage prices anymore. But my personal cars have been Subaru's since 1978, 10 to date including the 2001 Outback our daughter has in Pittsburgh.

Since the last GATES kit I used to use came back with a FAILED cheap cogged pulley, I stopped using them a year or 2 ago. ( My own 2 cents and experiences ) I have been using Mitsuboshi only belts on any of the vehicles I service. The kits I now order are from Ebay and have GMB pulleys with them and Asian water pumps. The kits I saw for your 96 are: w/o water pump: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fit-90-97-Subaru-Legacy-Impreza-1-8-2-2L-SOHC-Mitsuboshi-Timing-Belt-EJ18E-EJ22E-/281128491393?fits=Year%3A1996%7CModel%3AImpreza&hash=item4174905981:g:YIYAAOxyfS1RzihH&vxp=mtr with water pump: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fit-90-97-Subaru-Legacy-Impreza-1-8-2-2L-Mitsuboshi-Timing-Belt-AISIN-Water-Pump-/281155773452?fits=Year%3A1996%7CModel%3AImpreza&hash=item417630a40c:g:wzcAAMXQHeBSF5Qo&vxp=mtr

To the best of my experience, only the most expensive ones will 'correct' and not reset the ECM. They have software specific to the mfg and model of vehicle, then you select the sensor you replaced and it runs the test only having to deal with that sensor and the CEL goes out. Not worth investing in for the backyard mechanic..... but nice ti know it's there. BTW, many service departments take the EASY way out also and do an ECM reset as well...... I saw that many times when I used to do part time work at a dealer in the late 90's and early 2000's.

On many scanners, a reset is a reset to the ECM values as well. So all your READINESS tests are now NOT READY and the car has to recompute those values as well as run tests, like EVAP test , as you drive. I mentioned the EVAP test because that requires time from a full tank of gas to 1/2 tank ans reading values in between. Later models have a vacuum pump that runs at a specific interval AFTER you park the vehicle. So SOMETIMES you hear a light 'wirring' coming from the car when it's just sitting there, You could have just replaced the front sensor and driven the vehicle. After so many cycles, the CEL will reset itself and the light will go out. This way you do not reset or disturb other values already set. Just have to ignore the CEL for a few more days before it goes out. Just drive..... eventually your idle will return to normal.

Your clutch is worn and the gap is now too wide. Ref thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/163615-intermittent-ac-2004-outback-limited/?do=findComment&comment=1359825

Here's a company I have used from Ebay for 3 replacements thus far. Not one has come back with problems. They Fit EXACTLY as original, unlike many after market exhausts where they are 1/2' too short, or the bend is NOT QUITE CORRECT. First one now was over 2 years ago with no problems. They come out of Toronto and have a 5 year warranty. Below is a link for the last one I used for 2000-2005 Outback. But visit their store for others: http://www.ebay.com/...=item3d3ec45f30 Here's a link to their store since that one is now sold out: http://stores.ebay.com/Exhaust-Catalytic?_trksid=p2047675.l2563 Or you can contact them by clicking Contact Seller and send them a message. They were very easy to deal with.

Just replace the Cats.... Here's a company I have used from Ebay for 3 replacements thus far. Not one has come back with problems. They Fit EXACTLY as original, unlike many after market exhausts where they are 1/2' too short, or the bend is NOT QUITE CORRECT. First one now was over 2 years ago with no problems. They come out of Toronto and have a 5 year warranty. Below is a link for the last one I used for 2000-2005 Outback. But visit their store for others: http://www.ebay.com/itm/2000-2005-Subaru-Outback-2-5L-Direct-Fit-Catalytic-Converter-Gaskets-/263046061872?vxp=mtr&hash=item3d3ec45f30

DRIVE THEM ..... they are 3 completely different handling, feeling vehicles. Look at the room and interior layout. The WRX has a trunk, the BRZ is a hatchback, the Impreza is available either way, Hatchback ( 5 door ) used also for Crosstrek XV, and 4 door used for WRX and STI. Consider mileage and economy. BRZ and WRX require Premium fuel. These are just a few of the differences that come to mind, But my best advice,,,,,, DRIVE THEM..... Which do you feel you can afford, is roomy enough, and you would enjoy getting into every day. I still feel most accidents happen in the showroom..... people buy the wrong vehicle for what they really want or need.

Your Clutch Clearance is TOO MUCH, Should be .0011 to .0015 http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f88/ac-runs-intermittently-04-forester-75562/#post848614

Working in and out of a dealership at the time, EJ25D in a 99 Forester did NOT exist. Check the VIN. the 99 introduced the PHASE2 block which was an SOHC on the 99 Forester. And an even bigger oddity the 99 Outback Phase 2, 2.2L which was a 1 year engine. Granted could be swapped with others. That said, the 98 Forester was a SLUG selling when it was introduced. There were LOTS of leftovers sold in the 99 year. FHI expected their sales to be much higher than they were. More RARE was a 98 BASE WHITE ONLY Forester..... 5 speed with NO FOG LIGHTS and I can't remember what else was missing at the time, This was not even called an L, but a base model. They were very limited. I only saw 1 then entire time I was at that dealership.

Endwrench Articles about DOHC: http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/--Articles--/--Endwrench--/Files/2.5Timing.pdf

Use this to start, from the FSM... My daughter also has a 2001 Outback diagnostics for engine starting failure.pdf

You can also tell it's an Outback by the Headlights, since you said you needed one. The Legacy has a single dual element bulb. The Outback has a low beam H1 bulb and separate 9005 High beam bulb in the lower part of the headlight. IIRC, the Outback also has foglights, the Legacy sedan did not. It should also have an SUS badge on the rear, Sport Utility Sedan

Not in the 10's or hundreds of these, but I have done at least a dozen or more of EJ25's, and I agree with Grossgary. I have used both Subaru gaskets and Felpro, and none have come back. Preparation is the key to a successful job. Each time I get the heads resurfaced, and scrub down the mating block surface with a 3M Scotchbrite pad, or 2 or 3 using kerosene as a solvent. I scrub until the block surface is completely clean of any old gasket or debris. Next is to follow the proper torque sequence and specs for the engine. I have yet to replace head bolts, but you will probably get various answers on this also.

Just had similar condition on daughter's 2001 Outback..... one day she called, CEL was on.... code was for CAM Sensor. Car was running fine. Erased code and went on her way. Forward a few weeks....... Crank, NO START..... No further CELs..... Had a used cam sensor in garage from one of my other repairs..... went out and replaced the cam sensor.,,,, VOILA... All is right with her Outback again. If it were not for that single CEL a few days earlier, I would have been in more PD or " Hunt and Peck" mode. My advice, don't ignore the crank sensor CEL.... they are cheap and easy to replace,

Our daughter just went thru a LOW GAS MILEAGE time on her 2001 Outback...... Was 26-27 mpg, down to 18-19. Turned out to be DRIVER ERROR....... after driving this car for about a year, she started putting it into 3rd instead of Drive. After trying to diagnose and changing parts, taking a ride with her was easily diagnosed from the passenger seat, Not saying this is your problem..... but another reason gas mileage can suffer.