ferret

Nothing special here. Let the engine cool if it was running, remove old filter, wipe the the engine mating surface, put a film of fresh oil on the new filter seal, then screw on new filter. No need to prime the filter on the FB engines.

The newer FB engines SHOULD use Synthetic oil at all times. The EJ engines were a COMPLETELY DIFFERENT DESIGN and Build. This is stated in plain words throughout the owners manual AND in the Service Manuals. They have VERY SMALL oil passages, especially on the Cam Advance Systems along with VERY TIGHT Tolerences. The 2012/2013 DID have oil consumption issues and Subaru has finally admitted to this, after much litigations let me state. This has to do with the oil rings and the manufacturing process that was used. In all the newer Subarus I service, I run 0-20w Synthetic, mainly Valvoline. EJ's I still use 5-20w conventional oil. Some come back at 5K for their changes, others at the recommended 7.5K. I have no neighbors with the NEW 6K oil change interval. All come back showing oil on the dipstick, some may be down 1/2 way ( approx 1/2 quart ). These are my observations and experiences .... I own a 2014 Impreza 2.0L FB engine with 38K and uses little or no oil in the 7.5K oil changes. BTW... I refer to 0-20w oil as Synthetic WATER .... 0w being the specific weight of WATER, No wonder it pours out of the oil pan so quickly, I HIGHLY recommend the Fumoto Valve because of this. It really keeps the oil draining on these MUCH CLEANER.

Subaru released a TSB for the 2012/2013 Impreza. Here's a link to the XV board: http://www.subaruxvforum.com/forum/problems-maintenance-warranty/4794-xv-high-oil-consumption-2.html#post164274 Also I would warn against using convential oil as the passages for the cam advance timing are miniscule at best and this is another reason to use, as I put it, "synthetic water " ..... oil viscosity 0 as in 0-20. Using thicker oil causes CEL's related to intake cam timing.

I'm not certain about the Impreza since they do NOT recommend towing with it, but it's twin, the XV Crosstrek DOES allow towing. So you MAY have the same TRAILER WIRING HARNESS installed and taped back to the harness in the rear. It already has a 20A fuse installled in the interior fuse box. Follow this PDF to see if you can FIND the connector, and if you do, pin 1 should be an ALWAYS ON +12v fused source, fuse #1 in the interior fusbox. http://techinfo.subaru.com/proxy/79184/pdf/079184-068224-H771SFJ000.pdf

Search over on http://www.subaruforester.org , there have been a few members there who have used older wheels on their '14 and '15 Foresters.

I WISH it were that easy, but it's not. The EGR test is when you are decellerating AFTER the engine is warm, The ECU OPENS the EGR port and looks for a DROP in manifold vacuum. If it does not detect a drop, it sets P0400.Here's a copy right from the FSM: Detect the malfunction of EGR system. Intake manifold pressure (negative pressure) is stable because the throttle valve is fully closed during the fuel shut-off in deceleration. In this case, the intake manifold pressure changes when EGR valve is opened or closed. Judge EGR system is OK or NG according to intake manifold pressure change amount This is why not only a defective solenoid, but clogged or open vacuum lines will set the code as well as a defective EGR itself. Either live with it, find an ECU that doesn't have an EGR or replace the manifold with the proper one.

Hate to say this, but it's normal for the newer PZEV vehicles. There are threads about this on every major Subaru board ( NASIOC, Subaruforester.org, Outback, Subaruxvforum ). Without a qualified answer, it seems it's for emissions and warming up the cat faster. Same reason, for those who had the reed air punp on their 08-11 vehicles complained about the LOUD noises at startup. And owning a 2014 Impreza, I have this experienced this also, at first thinking .... I need spark plugs so soon ? ...... NORMAL

Thanks to all for checking .... going to a u-pull it in eastern Pa next week with a buddt who NEEDS a few things..... going to look there.

Being a neighborhood mechanic, I can atttest to the fact, it is ALL manufacturers. I just did our neighbors 2003 Chevy 1500 pickup. Also a lot of Ford products. So it's not limited to Subarus. I AM surprised they stepped up to a recall.

I would just replace the pins, but the one hole is in sad shape, even after cleaning it out. I did have extra pins around and used an undamaged one for now, but still want to replace the bracket. I don't want to pay for a complete replacement caliper, and a new bracket itself is more than 1/2 the price of the complete caliper, But if I have to, I will. But in the meantime, if I can find a good used one, I would prefer going that route. Just asking if anyone has a good used one around they are willing to sell and ship.

http://www.cars101.com/recalls.html

As the title states, I'm looking for a rear Caliper bracket for our daughters 98 Forester. While she is home from college, I just replaced the pads and found one of the slide pins frozen. I was able to get it out, clean and burnish it, then reinstall with some fresh high temp grease. This I deem as a TEMPORARY repair and would like to replace it with a working one before she goes back to Pittsburgh in late August. I was able to find 2 wrecks in the local yards ( an Impreza and a Forester ) but they were in BAD if not worse shape. The Caliper itself is good, The rear brackets are the same, left and right. So if anyone has a good one laying around from a 98-02 rear Impreza, or 98-03 rear Forester, please let me know.

And ANOTHER Recall just after the one I Posted: some 2003-2004 Outback, Legacy, Baja, Impreza, WRX/STI the recall is to replace some improperly manufactured front passenger airbag inflators on some (not all) of these models. This is recall WQL-48 2003-2004 some but not all Outback, Legacy, Baja, Impreza, WRX/STI 2003 Legacy built 1/22/03-5/14/03 2004 Legacy built 3/17/03-2/10/04 2003 Outback built 2/18/;04-4/15/03 2004 Outback built 2/28'03-2/11/04 2003 Baja built 2/11/03-5/6/03 2004 Baja built 3/3/03-7/21/04 Impreza, WRX, STI built 1/8/03-5/15/03

brake line recall WQK-47, only affects salt-belt state cars There is the possibility of brake line corrosion when the brake line is exposed to salt water in the cold weather, salt-belt states of Connecticut, Delaware, Wa, D.C., Illinois, Indiana, Iowa, Maine, Maryland, Massachusetts, Michigan, Minnesota, Missouri, New Hampshire, New Jersey, New York, Ohio, Pennsylvania, Rhode Island, Vermont, West Virginia, Wisconsin. Salt water could splash on the brake lines through a gap in the fuel tank protector, resulting in possible excessive corrosion and leaking brake fluid which could affect stopping distances. Drivers should be careful, check the brake fluid, and watch for the dashboard brake lamp warning light. Years include some 2005-2009 Outback and Legacy, 2008-2011 Impreza (not WRX, STI), 2008-2014 WRX and STI, and 2009-2013 Foresters. Owners will be notified by mail, and dealers cannot sell any cars subject to the recall. This is recall #WQK-47 (note- this recall is similar recall #WGQ-43 for the 2005-2009 Outback/Legacy in April 2013)

Here are 2 threads from the Forester Board that address what you want: http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f87/how-adjust-c-compressor-clutch-116835/ http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f88/ac-runs-intermittently-04-forester-75562/

I don't see any options for flat rate for the size these heads are. I measure on the larger one, the drivers side 7" x 9" x 14" ..... so when I put them in to ship in a non-flat rate box from NJ to Or, I come up with $96 each. So if you can figure a way to ship these at a rate you would be willing to pay, I will pack and get them on the way. They are from an 03 Legacy 2.5L w/EGR and 112k miles.

Too bad you are not near NJ ... I have a used set from an 03 Legacy with the rear hole for an EGR. willing to part with them for $150, but local pickup only. Here was my tale of woe from a few years back: http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f88/every-2-5l-interference-engine-64410/

I can recommend A&W in Goshen NY ..... the guy who owns and runs the place, Waldek, with his wife worked for Bill Kolb SUbaru in Orangeburg NY for MANY YEARS. I and many I know can highly recommend him. When I need a set of used heads, He always seems to have the ones I need.

I have done many these since my first EJ22 in 1990. At that time IIRC, the torque was on 80 ft lbs. Since then I have always used the starter to loosen, and if a manual, in gear to tighten. Automatics, I have used a screwdriver in the opening by the throttle body..... that is until I BENT a flex plate a few years ago. That turned into a LONGER JOB than just a timing belt.. So a few years ago I purchased a Grimspeed Pulley tool: http://www.amazon.com/Grimmspeed-Crank-Pulley-Removal-Install/dp/B0054RG6B6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1379761332&sr=8-2&keywords=subaru+crank+pulley+tool I have used it over a dozen times since on BOTH Autos and manuals. With a breaker bar sitting on the drivers side frame rail, the pulley doesn't move, and torqueing to 140 ft lbs is SOOO EASY. It has easily paid for itself. I said I also use it on manuals because, unlike putting it in gear with the brake on, there is NO drivetrain play, just a quick easy CLICK. And unlike a strap or chain wrench, there is no additional stress on the damper pulley rubber to lead to a failure where the pulley separates and has to be replaced in the future. My $.02 and experiences.

I don't see how. The 2013 Forester has the FB25 engine in it. Everything is different form your 2003 EJ25. Your 2003 will do just fine. My 04 Forester has 228K on the clock and is runnning fine. Headgasket never failed, but I replaced them at 141K when the timing belt sheredded and has the heads rebilt for bent valves.

You may have a worn compressor clutch. Check out these threads: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/98733-2003-legacy-h6-intermittent-ac-issue/ http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/119296-2003-outback-intermittent-ac-clutch-failure/?hl=zexel&do=findComment&comment=1006174 http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f88/ac-fine-till-its-hot-57077/

Do you have a Cable? or is your clutch hydraulic? Usually the hydraulic ones 'squeek' and it's right under the hood where the slave rod meets ... and I mean on BOTH ENDS.... I have seen people put a high temp grease or lubriplate on the tip of the hydraulic rod where it meets the clutch fork .... squeek gone .... but only for a few days. You have to lubricate BOTH ENDS of the slave rod. I PUSH the rod back into the slave, then remove it along with the rubber dust cover, Then you see it has 2 ends. The one under the dust cover that fits nicely into the center hollowed slave piston. And the other end you plainly see against the clutch fork. Lube BOTH ends and the squeek will be no more.

I have done a number of these on different vehicles with mixed success. YES you can replace the joint, but be certain you can center each side within the yoke or you will have a vibration problem. And most driveshaft repair places will not balance a staked in driveshaft. So don't be surprised by your results. Cheaper and more labor instensive, especially the transmission end, than just replacing the entire driveshaft, but I have had a few of them end in vibration, and those I finally replaced the entire driveshaft to resolve.

Bear in Mind, we can't SEE, HEAR, TOUCH or OBSERVE your car, so we are relying on you are our input to suggest how to fix your car. A few things come to mind and comments here. First, the 03 Forester has a vertical radiator, not a cross flow as many Legacy/Outbacks have. So they fill quite easily and rarely need burping. If they did NOT use a Subaru thermostat, yes it can act this way. OEM thermostats are usually smaller ( diameter is correct, but length is shorter ) so they don't sit as far into the water jacket as necessary for uniform temperature control. So you get wide temp swings and intermittent overheating. The radiator MAY be partially blocked. This leads to normal driving being acceptable, but when you encounter a long uphill or put any additional load on the engine, it can't dissipate heat fast enough. When the car has been run, shut it off, and feel the radiator thru the cooling fan side. It should be uniformly warm all over, no cool areas. Cool areas indicate blockage. Finally, if/when it's hot, open the hood, with the engine running. The coolant should be HIGH but NOT OVERFLOWING from the coolant bottle. It's normal for it to expand and fill the bottle, but it's large enough that it should not come out. Open the top of the bottle and observe, is there FOAM or a steady stream of bubbles coming from the bottom of the bottle? A bubble once or twice as you race the engine may be normal, but a steady stream of small or larger bubbles indicate a leaking head gasket. Armed with these items to observe, please get back to us and see what we can suggest from your observations.

If you were under the hood at all before the trip, like changing the air filter, you could have bumped the Vacuum hose off the actuator on the firewall. Easy to do and easy to overlook.