ferret

He was a member here known as theotherskip. Here's the link from an old post: http://home.comcast.net/~skipnospam/

This is where you do find the timing marks on a Genuine Subaru part belt. It should sit at 47 teeth on the passenger cam and at 43 1/2 teeth on the drivers side both measured from the center marking. The last 2 I replaced for neighbors, I used a Gates belt on one, and the other brought a Dayco belt with him. Both were properly marked for the passenger side at 47 teeth from the center, but the drivers side was marked at 44 teeth on both!!!! So with the crank AND cams properly aligned, the drivers side BELT MARK was 1/2 tooth toward the drivers fender. I used a silver marker to make a new mark at the 43 1/2 tooth ( really the valley ) BEFORE I put each belt on. Then after starting and running for about a minute, I shut each down and recheck to ensure the crank & cam marks are still in alignment. After I confirm it's correct, I reassemble the front of the motor. Also On these 2000 and 2002 motors, the cogged or toothed idler, right next to the water pump, felt gritty and a little noisy as I turned it, so I replaced that idler on each of these newer SOHC's. FYI and my $.02 experiences .....

Only thing the 2001 was involved in was the WWP-99, Coolant conditioner recall. There are a lot of 2001/2002 Foresters out there. Drive it, get a Car-Fax just in case, and have a reliable mechanic check it over. It still has many good years of service on it. If it has clutch shutter when cold, this was common for all Subaru 5 speeds at that time. The clutch is made of organic material, and the shutter goes away after warmup. Price is a reasonable if it is in good condition. If it is an S or S premium ( large sunroof ), the price is very good.

1st, if you unplug the MAF, I think you have to cycle the key once or twice, to let the ECU know it's in a fail-safe mode. Try it before you need it to happen. Nothing like that to unplug the 02 sensor. I don't have an answer as to why it doesn't set a code, but I have seen where it doesn't. I'm not certain about driving a few hundred miles with the MAF disconnected, but I have driven from Albany to NJ with the 02 sensor unplugged.

Here's a thread where Peaty, a guy who documents everything with pictures, has a few there. You may have to register to see the pictures, but registration is free. http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4039&highlight=knock+sensor Also I would think Van Bortel in Victor would give you a good price on a knock sensor. I come out that way a few times a year and have often browsed their showroom.

I saw this on newer 99 and up Subaru's. They act like a bad tank of gas AFTER warmup. Some 1/2 hr, others 2 or 3 hrs later. Front Oxygen sensor was the culprit. It acted as if it was always RICH after warmup. Easy way to test, but this WILL set a code. When it is acting up, shut off the engine and unplug the front 02 sensor. The MIL will be on, but you will run in 'open loop' mode. A preset value for mixture based on engine RPM and LOAD. If the engine now runs fine, the 02 sensor is your culprit. First one of these I saw, was a few yrs back. Outback was bucking so badly, then quit. Car was flatbedded to dealer, only to start fine. Next day, same thing. But not it just would NOT start or keep running, Just like a dirty MAF, but dirty MAF's are not so intermittent. This would ALWAYS happen after warmup. Never cold. Since then, I've seen 3 more, and suggested this to many others on various Subaru Boards. P.S. My father's Day present was a trip to the Iron Pigs..... and the Bucket Hat giveaway that day !!

Since 1999, I've fitted every vehicle we own with Speed Bleeders. Easiest way for a 1 man brake fluid change. Cost ... about $20 per vehicle. I just did the brakes for the 1st time and changed the fluid ( DOT4 ) for the 3rd time on MY04 .... Can't get much easier.

P1507 means the idle, as detected by the ECU is abnormally high, and the ECU closes down the IAC and can not maintain 550-700 rpm idle. That's why the neutral switch on the manual is a likely culprit. As you are crusing, the ECU get the signal from the switch that the tranny is in neutral, so it tries to maintain IDLE, but obviously it can't because the car is NOT in neutral and the engine is being turned by the wheels. If you are having difficulty idling, I would look for vacuum leaks, loose throttle body, and loose hoses etc. These can also cause the ECU not to maintain an idle by driving the IAC. If it were an IAC electrical failure, you would get another code. Also be certain the throttle cable is properly adjusted.

That's the plant where the Imprezas ( and all based on them ) / Foresters are built. Love the names. I remember when GM/Toyota had their deal. The Corolla / Chevy Nova both came down the same assembly line in Calif. When it debuted, Motor Trend called it the Toyo-Let ( instead of the Chev-ota ).

The basic chart in the owners manual has worked well for me in the 30 yrs I've been a Subaru Owner. Online it can be found at: http://www.cars101.com/subaru/subaru_maintenance.html

This is a GOOD ONE to remember. I have seen the neutral switch cause the P1507 ( IAC in Safe Mode ) because if you are coasting in gear with a M/T, and the ECU 'thinks' the tranny is in neutral ( defective switch ), it closes the IAC to lower the idle to the preset ( usually 750 RPM ) and obviously can't. So it thinks the IAC system is not working. But the real culprit is the neutral switch. It's also used to dis-engage the Cruise Control. That's another symptom I've seen. But this is new ........ so noted in my OBD manual notes. Good Call .... THANKS for sharing and Posting.

Sorry, not Permatex. ( Old age comin thru ) . I just brought the tube from the garage. It's a Red plastic tube of " Loctite 515 Gasket Eliminator " It Flexes with the Flanges as it says. When I need more, I usually but 2 or 3 tubes at a time. Hate to be in the middle of something and run out. I even use it to seal oil drain bolts in case I don't have a replacement crush washer ( more and more companies have gone this route ). Never had a leak when I use it. And if I have to remove the part again, it just comes right off. It's like a sticky thick cake icing that doesn't harden.

I'm not certain of any newer RTV claims. For my own use, and the neighbors cars I also service, I use a Non-adhesive sealer made by Permatex. It seals well, I have never had a comeback or complaint, AND I can easily take whatever I used it on apart again.

Not only for leaks, NO RTV on Newer Engines. RTV fumes will ruin the front Oxygen sensor. On any oil related part, don't forget, air enters the crankcase and mixes with bypass gasses only to be drawn into the intake thru the PCV system. So YES, RTV used to seal oil gasket surfaces can ruin your Oxygen sensor. This is true of any manufacturer. I first saw this as a TSB back in 1997 from Chrysler. They were replacing O2 sensors at an alarming rate. So they needed to get to their own dealer/service depts to warn them.

Follow the Endwrench article. The last few pages have step by step for your 2.5L SOHC. http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/TBeltEWWin05.pdf

USDM 98-08 only the base or L Forester DOES NOT have a rear LSD. It is standard on all S, XS, Premium and Turbo models. That all changes in 2009 Forester line with VDC standard on all models.

On a side note. If you know someone who owns one, try to be there when a PZEV starts 'COLD' . Very noisy and LOUD !! Until it warms up, the emissions vacuum and pump are vented to the atmosphere. So older Subaru's have cold start piston slap, newer ones emission vales and vents.

UK gets it first, and as usually for the European market, a 2.0L : http://cars.uk.msn.com/Reviews/article.aspx?cp-documentid=7283675 Check out the MPG ..... 49 COMBINED !!!! but no Automatics for now ...

Check the driveshaft ( propeller shaft ) universal joints. Especially the ones near the transmission rear and the other end at the differential. When I have seen these go bad, they cause a shutter, usually starting in the 30mph range that then goes away when you go faster. Then as the joint gets worse, the speed range widens. If you crawl under your car, look closely at each one. A bad one may still look good. Use a bright light and look for ANY rust or dust near the caps or journels. This is a sign of a worn universal. Also grab it and try to see if there is any play. Even a bad one still attached to the tranny may not have much play you can feel. If you find any problem here, the universals are not a replaceable part. You have to get the entire driveshaft. And that can be upwards of $400.

Something wrong with that listing. IIRC the Loyale didn't debut until 1990. It was renamed to distinguish it from the newly introduced Legacy. I had an 85GL 4wd wagon, my neighbor had an 88 GL sedan, as they described. Then due to bad bad rust, I replaced that 85 with a 90 Legacy LS wagon. A different neighbor on the next street at the same time bought a 90 Loyale wagon. In 88, IIRC, were the DL, GL and GL-10 as well as the XT. If you look closely, on the rear door side it does simply say "SUBARU". This is where my neighbor's had "LOYALE" spelled out.

Remember when the solenoid closes, thats about 1/2 it's current. The rest is the contacts. Either one is removed and the solenoid drops back enough to dis-engage. From what I read here, After removing the starter 'pick', there is still current sensed. If you have the FSM, you will see how they depict the soleniod. It has 3 connections. 2 are internal. Ground Pick ( from ignition key ) Contact ( internal ring that also make the contact to turn the starter )

I still stand by my original statment. Here's the wording copied and pasted right from the FSM: ( the dash before the speed and rpm is a greater than or equal sign. Didn't paste properly ) Judge NG when the starter signal remains to be ON regard less of both vehicle speed and engine speed become high. Judge NG when the continuous time of completing all the conditions below becomes more than 10 seconds. Engine speed ≥ 1500 Vehicle speed ≥ 30 km/h (19 MPH) Starter “ON” signal Not detected Judge OK and clear NG when the start switch is turned ON to OFF.

This is what I have had since the BR-1 in 1999. I love it and whole heartedly recommend it for a serious mechanic. Especially for tracking down tough to diagnose problems. Mapping the sensors is awsome, and you can save the output as a file on your PC to look at later. BUT Today I got a link to this in my In-Box, Basic code reading & Free Shipping. And at $39.99 it's cheaper than 1 trip to a dealer . Don't know how long this deal will last ...... http://www.amazon.com/Actron-CP9125-PocketScan-Diagnostic-Post-1996/dp/B0007LEG2K/ref=pd_bbs_sr_2?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1199984272&sr=8-2

I folded up my own business in 1978 .. for many reasons including a poor partnership. So I whole heartedly understand. Hrs into a job, you open a box, or rip a bag and say ... This isn't the right part !! Then ask yourself, did I order the right part? Did they ship or substitute a part ? or Is it a wrong part in the box? How long will it take me to get the right part, so I can get this done, back to the customer, and get paid? In any case, through all that, I did learn, nothing fits, and with some exceptions, last as well as original. I still do neighborhood repairs, on the side and on the evenings, and will REFUSE to use any Autozone/Advance Auto/ and some NAPA OEM lifetime parts. Mostly because I got tired of seeing them come back for "FREE" replacements, but repeat work for me... and I felt bad and cut them a break on my time to replace them. I don't care if they buy the parts, but will let them know about mine and other experiences. Heck, one 94 Caravan, I replaced the drivers front axle 7 times with a lifetime Autozone part. He finally became angry, because after I pulled the axle, I handed it to him to get the replacement from the Zone. He finally had it, paid $30 more from Dodge, and I never saw that axle again. ( BTW, the original lasted 127K, why think another wouldn't last as long ) End of rant and my $.02 .... See what happens when I have a free day off, and no body's car in my driveway ......

The ECM is monitoring the Starter +12v. If the car is starting and running correctly, this is a false error. But may indicates a poor or broken wire from the starter +12v solenoid to the ECM. I would check the connections at the starter solenoid ( the smaller push on terminal of the solenoid ) You did say the starter was sounding odd. This could also be caused by a 'sticky' solenoid. If the engine starts, and the solenoid remains engaged for more than 10 seconds, this will also set a P1518. This should give you a place to start ( no pun intended ). I suspect you will have to replace the started/solenoid.