All_talk

With a light editing… (warning: Stupidru may have to clean up again) Perhaps you're a man who grabs life by the cuff. You live life your way. And it shows... in the clothes you wear...in the women you love...Sleek. Agile. The sculptured lines of the body invite you in. She's different. A step ahead of the others. Go to her. Let her cradle you in the softness of her. Surround yourself with the lushness of her. Now. Turn her on. Unleash the relentless power of her. Control every movement-her every twist and turn-as you take hold of her rack. She'll make it smooth. She'll carry you away as she peaks. She cost so little to keep happy. Yep, pure porn, like a trashy novel... I kinda like it.

I wonder how the diff lock is going to cope with 100% of the power under extended full load, especially with all your mods. Under normal use the lock would only see full load if one axel has zero traction and the other has solid grip, a rare occurrence, I wonder if its up to the task. Just a thought Gary

WOW... I want, I want. Yes, convince him to sell (to me ), and please tell him its nothing special. :-p But honestly if he is considering selling, let me know. Gary

You did say OLD, which would imply that there was also a NEW, fair enough, and I certainly don’t argue with the using a punch. We my be talking apples and oranges, as I have never done bearings on a EA81, but the EA82 hub does have cutouts in the hub casting so you can drive directly on the outer race. Like I indicated before, I don’t want to come off argumentative, just trying to share my limited knowledge with anyone it might help. Gary

Not to be contrary, but… If you plan to reuse the bearing don't pound on the inner race, the bearing is held by the outer race and you never want to transfer the impact through the balls, it will bernell (dent) the races and the bearing will fail. There are cutouts in the hub casting to give you access to the edge of the outer race, find them through all the grease and drive it there. I’ve always found the bearings are harder coming out than going back in (normally they’ve been in there a while). Btw, I’ve always used the hand pack greasing method, just like my daddy taught me. Gary

Edalexandr, I'm not a big fan of the Brat (did I just say that out loud on this board… I fear the flames), they'er a great car/truck, just not my thing. Glenn, if by "T" you mean turbo, then yes that would be great. If "T" means time machine, then that's even better. Northguy, I'm not sure I have the cash for a decent mid '90s Legacy and I sure cant afford another payment, the wife's '97 Suburban is killing me. John, agree with you on the wagons, but the thought of the sporty RX or sportier XT6 are tempting me. BTW, If you're in the market for a '74 260Z 2+2, AT, L28 with early SU carbs, custom split bumpers and fresh silver paint… have I got the car for you. Gary

Hey Substers :wave: Well I’ll soon be looking for everyday/commuter to replace my '87 GL wagon, (I love it but its got 225,000 miles, an AT3, and was abused by POs). I commute 175 miles a day over Snoqualmie pass so decent mileage and 4WD are a must, I'm thinking fuel injection and 5-speed are on the required list. But what model? I love the wagons, I think it's the best looking model for the EA82s and I'm sure I can find a good one, but then I started thinking that a RX would be fun or maybe even a XT6. I like the looks of the RX sedan better than the 3-door but they're harder to find. I'm not overly fond of the XT styling but the performance is very attractive. Was there ever a turbo 6? To bad Subaru never made a RX wagon, that would be my pick… with a twin turbo 6. Maybe I could find a clean wagon with a bad drive and a rusty RX and build the WagonRX, I know some of you guys have done it. Decisions, Decisions, Decisions… I'm not sure how much I have to spend yet, I'm finishing up a project car to sell (Datsun 260Z) and depending on what I get for it and some other expenses it could range from $1000 to $2500. Let me hear your suggestions and if you have any cool subies that will be up for sale soon let me know. I'm no good at spending money… I have no practice. Gary

That car needs a cape and a big S on the hood.

Sounds like just about every winter day in a air cooled Volkswagen, but in my VW the wipers suck too, so you have to scrape the inside and outside while driving. These Subies are Soooo easy! Gary

Hey Moose I had a similar problem, one horn went bad and corroded, grounding the other. I think its just our cars showing their age. My earlier post may be of some help: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=9450 Gary

Should work fine, not sure about the law but should work and if you already have the 4 headlight system the wiring/plugs should match up too. Gary

I also have thought about some configurations like this... you know great mines think alike and all that Two major problems... overall gear ratio and the open center diff. The open center diff means that at best, with LSDs, two wheel drive, I guess you could weld it. The gear ratio is the bigger problem its now about 4 times lower than the stock subie, a car that topped out at 85mph will now struggle to hit 22mph. Bigger tires will offset this but you would have to go 46 inchers just to hit 44mph. But for a slow speed off roader it may still have some promise. Just some thoughts Gary

Yes, I believe the factory A/C EA82 cars have a mechanical fan on the water pump. I’m betting it's a bad radiator, I just replaced mine ('87 GL Wagon), the faster I went the hotter it got. I was surprised how bad it really was, two or three rows at the top and bottom were flowing, the whole center or the core was dead cold. Get the car warmed up then feel up and down the face of the radiator (turn the engine off and be careful, could be hot ), if its anything less than hot from top to bottom the rad is plugged. Gary

On the belt tension issue, you should buy the belts in "matched sets" (same batch), but even with unmatched belts you can normally get the larger belt tight enough without the smaller one being to tight. The double belt set up is really necessary because of the minimal wrap on the pulleys but it also comes in very handy when you loose one on the road, twice now I've made it home on one belt. Gary

I'll bet its just a stuck governor, I had a similar problem, check this thread: http://usmb.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=10953 And the fix is detailed here: http://usmb.net/repair/?CurrentDirectory=FOLDER_3f29b58f50d9b8.15492800/&FileType=Article&File=ARTICLE_3f57fdb83de231.34713659.art If that dosen't do it, I've recently had good luck with some autotrans “snake oil�, the Lucas brand. Fixed up a ’86 K-car that wouldn’t move at all. Hope that helps Gary P.S. watch out for a shim between the cover and the governor, the repair procedure doesn't mention it but mine had one.

Yep it dose, mine was on the blink and I tore it down, I thought it was a bad regulator.. turned out I had a couple of diodes that head de-soldered from the plate (dont ask me how ). A bit of a trick to re-solder but you gotta love a no dollar fix. The trouble I’ve found is that nobody sell alternator parts anymore, just complete units, anybody have a source on parts? Gary

Good Work, Determination Wins

Yep, with a no start its back to basics. Fuel Spark Compression Timing (ignition & cam) Assume nothing, check everything Gary

If you can't build pressure and no fluid is coming out of the system then the master cylinder is bypassing, should be an easy part to replace... bench bleed it before install. Unless the new one is really expensive I wouldn’t mess around with a used master cylinder. Brake lines aren’t to tough to make, tube, fittings, flare tool and tubing bender or pre-made lines of the right length and a bender. The big challenge can be routing then through the car. Gary

Check your fuses, with all the messing around with wiring you may have grounded something at the wrong time and popped one. (I did it two days ago working on my choke)

Don’t give up yet Steve Before when it was starting, did the engine get to operating temp? Is the choke connect/adjusted? The back fire is typically a sign of a lean condition, these emissions carbs run VERY lean and will not start or run cold without the choke, especially at low RPM. How long has it been since this carb was running, sounds like some of the smaller passages (idle and mid circuits) could be plugged up. If so, carb cleaner may help but a good teardown cleaning may be the only solution. You may be on the right track checking for vacuum leaks, try the spray around with WD40/starter fluid. Even if the engine is warm try propping the choke mostly closed, if this helps the start/run it would confirm the lean condition. Then you have to figure out why... to much air (vac leak), or to little fuel (carb trouble). If it will run a higher RPM I doubt it’s a fuel pump or float level problem. And I do wonder about this feedback carb that Skip mentioned, I wonder just how the system works and what is the default (power off) position of the solenoid, rich or lean? Just some thinking out loud Gary

I’m with Skip on this one, the function of the ADS is to close off the idle circuit when you turn off the key so that as the engine spins down it cant draw in fuel and run on. On most carbs the idle circuit effects the mixture up to about 3000RPM, I bet if you connect the ADS you low RPM problem will disappear. But I wouldn’t wire it to the choke, on my ’87 the choke only has power after the engine is running, you want the ADS open with the key on, the power wire for it is there in the 3-wire plug (car side), you just need to ground the other wire. Gary

Hey Guys I have a ’87 4WD wagon with the 3-wire carb (no ECU). All three wires are power, the bowl vent solenoid and anti-diesel solenoid power on with the key, the choke power is only on if the engine is running, get a test light or meter and check them. I going to guess from your description that the 2 wire ADS has a power and ground lead. I would switch the single wire ADS and 3 wire harness to the new carb, assuming the solenoid will fit. If not splice in the 3-wire plug or some individual insulated blade connectors for the proper leads and ground one of the 2-wire ADS leads. You can test the operation of the ADS by jumping power to it, you should here it click. If you blow a fuse you’ve done something wrong Good Luck Gary

Hey Guys I'm bummed, there was an '88 RX sedan sitting on a side street, temp spare on the left front, no tags since 2002 and drivers door panel in the back seat. I'm sure it wasn't a runner but was complete and in reasonable shape overall. I've had a note on the drivers window asking if they want to sell for about two months now, city towed it this week. I guess I could try and find out when it will go up for auction, anybody done this? Gary

Well that seems to have been it, I removed the governor, disassembled it, dressed all edges on both valve parts with a stone then 600 grit paper in the drill press, cleaned and reassembled, and all is right. I wouldn’t have know where to look without info from this board … Once Again the Day is Saved, Thanks to the USMB Many thanks guys Gary P.S. the gear on the governor looked good so I’m assuming the one in the tranny is ok, this is a non-turbo car and the gear was steel so maybe it has been changed before? Also, I was able to chuck up the bigger valve spool piece in my drill press buy wrapping some electrical tape around the expanding arbor for my Dremel sanding drum. Those Dremels are one of the best tools ever.