All_talk

yep, line up on the 3 marks, set the short belt, then one revolution and set the long one.

Do you have a manual? If you were closer I'd lend you mine. I dont have it here in front of me, but as I remember you set the flywheel on the 3 dash marks and set the left cam with the mark up and the right with the mark down. I cam go check the book or you can go here and look for the info: http://www.finleyweb.net/default.asp?id=142 Gary

I asked my daughter and she said its ok if they dont really make a living at it, anybody do some rally and want to answer a few questions? E-mail: bigfoot_man@hotmail.com Gary

I’ve done a lot of searching recently and have read a lot of what’s been done, lots of good info. Subarutex, though I neglected to mention it, I had considered the BOV/BPV required with higher boost. And had read something about the dashpot in another post. Where can I get the Corky Bell turbo book? And I may take you up on the bombarding, first, what’s the stock WRX BOV pressure? Adjustable? And does it have a fitting to use it as a BPV? What should I expect to pay for a WRX IC with inlet pipe and BOV? And yes, pics on the cold air intake, is it the same as your latest set up on your RX? I’ve got a lot more questions about scoops/air ducting, spider intakes, compression ratios, and exhaust tube sizes (primary and turbo back), just to get started. But one thing at a time. Gary

I bought one for mine at Heads Up in Auburn, WA (253) 833-4546. They had one in stock when I got mine. Gary

Check the manual, not all cars are the same, yes most do say running and warm, but some are in park some are in gear. Some have it writen on the dip stick. For the Subie, I think its running, warm, and in park. Gary

Whats their size and configuration? pics? price? My E-mail: bigfoot_man@hotmail.com

So I’ve had the RX about 4 days now so of course I’m already thinking about mods , exhaust, intake, boost and intercooler are all on the list (after new rings and bearing, its got 250,000 miles on it now). I think the optimum configuration for the IC would be top left horizontal inlet and center vertical outlet (see pic), so you could use a direct or straight tube coupling to the spider TB and a sweeping tube from the turbo. I’d like to use aluminum piping from the turbo to the TB just to shed a bit more heat. I’m sure I could get a IC made with this setup but that’s big $$$, so I’m wonder if anybody has seen one like this from another car and what ICs have been used (I know the WRX, but the twin inlet seems unnecessarily complicated)? Anybody have a IC custom made, what would it cost? Thanks Gary

My 12-year-old daughter has a school project to interview someone who has a job that she might want to do when she grows up. She has picked rally racing (I’m sure this choice is all my fault… watching a lot of WRC and taking her for “rally” rides in gravel and snow covered parking lots). Anyway, if anyone here drives rally for a living (I bet even “part time” drivers would be fine), and would be willing to answer some questions about it (through email), please let me know. Now every time I take her to the store I get “can we rally” and she’s very excited about the RX I just got, I took her for a ride and on the first hard pull she yelled “Ohhh, fastness, fastness”. I may have created a monster. Thanks Gary P.S. Sorry for the cross post, just looking for good exposure, moderators move as necessary.

My 12-year-old daughter has a school project to interview someone who has a job that she might want to do when she grows up. She has picked rally racing (I’m sure this choice is all my fault… watching a lot of WRC and taking her for “rally” rides in gravel and snow covered parking lots). Anyway, if anyone here drives rally for a living (I bet even “part time” drivers would be fine), and would be willing to answer some questions about it (through email), please let me know. Now every time I take her to the store I get “can we rally” and she’s very excited about the RX I just got (as am I), I took her for a ride and on the first hard pull she yelled “Ohhh, fastness, fastness”. I may have created a monster. Thanks Gary P.S. Sorry for the cross post, just looking for good exposure, moderators move as necessary.

I’ve successfully salvaged nichrome wire out of hair dryers, better to crimp it with a physical connection than solder it if you can. I fixed my blower coils by just twisting them back together at the break, not the best permanent solution but its worked for about 4 months. Gary

Good point oddcomp, make sure you have all the parts.

A 1/2" air impact is the best tool (need to have the rad out). Or you can use a 1/2" breaker bar, trick with the breaker bar is you need to lock up the motor, if its a stick put it in a high gear and lock the e-brake, if its an auto things get complicated. I'm not sure what the torque spec is but it needs to be tight. Good luck Gary

Hey Tex (I assume I can call you Tex ) My wagon will do that sometimes on a hard pull (low vac), I think that the VENT setting is the default for the system without vacuum applied. It could be a bad/leaking check valve in the line that feeds the vacuum storage tank. Or there could be a small leak in the heater control vac system so that its depleting the vac tank during low vac/boost conditions. Just my first thoughts Gary

If your going to chop it, try to cut it into pieces that will stack flat… it will look less like a car. Gary

I've rid myself of a few parts cars without titles by cutting them into several pieces and dropping it off as scrap metal. A bit of work, but could be a work around. Gary

Wedge a large flat blade screwdriver between the front and back cover adjacent to the bolt location and pry as you turn the bolt (try not to chew it up to bad), go bolt to bolt a little bit at a time tell it comes free. Once you get it off you can get the brass insert loose and epoxy it back in the back cover, or leave it on the bolt and just push it back in. I’ve had the one on my wagon off three times like this and I just clamp it back in with channel lock pliers. Gary

The GL-10 Turbos came with F/T D/R but I think they have the 1.592 Lo range, not the 1.196 from the RX. Gary

It’s a ’87 3-door, I picked it up Friday night from fellow board member rxpilot, great guy. It’s a good runner but needs some bodywork and a few things before it becomes my daily commuter (175 miles). It surprised me how hard it pulls in the first 2-3 gears, boost seems to come in at about 2500 rpm, I can already see this is going to be a fun car. But its got a lot of miles on it so I think I should at least do rings and bearings before I start on any mods (110 lb compression with one weak hole). I put the gauge on it and took it for a run, idles at about 19 in Vac and boosts to about 8-9 pounds, 7-8 on long pulls in higher gears. The trans and diff output seals leak a bit and there is a fair about of play in the shafts (to be excepted with 250,000 miles), I think I’ll just do seals for now and plan on new bearings soon. So where is the best place to buy engine rebuild parts? What about bearings and other parts for the trans and diff? Feeling R-eXcellent Gary P.S. will I be shunned form the board if I remove the RX stickers (there in pretty bad shape) and paint it something other than white?

The fulltime center locking diff trans uses a vacuum servo for the "locking", thats the only thing I can think of that would change from motor on to off. But sounds like the trans needs a rebuild regardless. Gary

OUCH, that really sucks. I’m surprised you got it on its roof without knocking all the corners off. If the unibody not badly tweaked (doesn’t look to be), all you need is a couple of fenders, a door, a roof section, glass, a welder, and some paint, no problem. But seriously I bet it fixable, I’ve dealt with worse, whether its worth it is another story. Gary

Ahh, to far to ship anyway, thanks tho.

Shoot, to bad your not west coast, I'm looking for a set of wheels for my 260Z, BTW how much did they want for them? Gary

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I wonder how the diff lock is going to cope with 100% of the power under extended full load, especially with all your mods. Under normal use the lock would only see full load if one axel has zero traction and the other has solid grip, a rare occurrence, I wonder if its up to the task. Just a thought Gary