All_talk

If it is actually seized then I’d say its not even worth tearing apart. If it were mine there are two routes I’d consider… One, get a good used engine, replace a few seals and run it, you should be able to find one for a pretty cheap. Two, find a decent used long block and do a shade tree rebuild (rings, bearings, valve grind and gaskets), NAPA has the EA82 kit for about $250. Gary

You are correct, for most drivers a good set of all seasons is all they’ll ever need, remember the most important thing in winter driving is the driver. And no, I would never want to run 135/90-16’s on the street, that example was just to illustrate that the idea has foundation. For me personal, my winter tire are typically a bit taller and a bit thinner than stock with a soft compound and fairly open tread (see the Coopers above), now that I’m driving a Subaru ground clearance is less of an issue so tall isn’t really necessary. Stock for my car is 185/70R13, current winter tire is 175/70R13, they have at least one more season in them, but after that I’ll be looking for something a bit thinner. (BTW, it’s an ’87 RX with a fulltime 4WD, center locking diff and rear LSD ). My daily commute is 175 miles back and forth over a mountain pass with 70% of it above the snow line most winter days. What I find most challenging is lane changes at speed, common conditions are compact snow in the wheel tracks with 4 to 10+ inches of snow/slush in between, a tire with some penetration is a big advantage… and stay on the power. The very worst I’ve driven in was about 6” of BB sized hail/sleet pellets, I don’t think any tire would have help much… I think a rudder and a prop would have been the right choice.:-\ Gary (P.S. I’m more 30-something and I’d like to think I’m super machismo, but alas those that know me would likely disagree.)

I found these pics over on specialstage.com. http://www.specialstage.com/forum/cgi-bin/DCForumID8/1554.html A guy here in Seattle built them, they are real rally stuff. The parts are originally for the European Escort Cosworth, but the guy can import them. Not sure on the cost, but they got me salivating. Gary

If a engine is designed/tuned to run correctly on 87 octane using a higher grade will make little to no difference without retuning to take advantage of the better fuel (typically at least a timing adjustment). Since you are seeing a substantial difference your car obviously has some issues with the 87 (detonation and such), another test would be to run 92/93 in your car and see if you gain anymore, I doubt that you will. In my RX I recently switched to 90 octane, I was getting some mild detonation as the boost came on with the 87. With the 90 the detonation is gone, engine is smoother, power is better but no noticeable change in mileage. But its possible that could be due to me enjoying the power… Got Boost? Gary

The Nokian Hakkapeliittas are suppose to be the best winter tires (I have never run them), and it looks like they have some narrower ones approved for 6.5 in wheels. http://www.nokiantires.com/newsite/tiresub.cfm?cid=1&sid=1 For the last couple winters I have run the Cooper Weather-Master S/T2 (no studs), in the stock size and they are the best snow tires I’ve ever run (I’ve never spent the big money on the really fancy brands), I would highly recommend them. http://www.coopertire.com/us/en/ProductDetails.asp?ProdType=Passenger&id=218 Gary

Great buckets of spoot! Darn stinky pine trees! P.S. if you hang it on the rear view, everyone can see it and will know you have a stinky car.

Rallyruss covered some important stuff about sway bars, you can control roll two ways, more sway bar or stiffer springs and dampers. The OEMs go with bigger bars and softer springs to preserve ride quality, race cars tend to use more spring and less bar, this gives better control in all conditions but makes for a pretty stiff ride. Gary

Good luck I hope you have A/C, its going to be HOT over there. Gary

Studs are great for hard pack or ice but do little in the loose snow/slush. The idea behind the narrow tread is better penetration, you need to cut through to harder pack, not float on top. Look at the tires that are used in snow rally, they have sizes like 135/90 R16 with tread widths around 4”. And yes adding/balancing weight can have a big effect, but that’s really a separate issue, don’t under estimate the difference a good winter tire can make. Gary

well its been running like it is for thousands of miles, it that counts for anything.:-\ I wonder if I could email the safety guy or just show up and see if I can get by? Gary

Gasket maker will say NO. I've used it on diesel Chevys but not on a Sube and I dont think I would. Just make sure the block and head are very clean, I like to block them with a long sanding board. The surface finish is important, to course and the gasket wont fill and seal, to fine and the metal wont have enough "tooth" to hold the gasket, try to perserve/match the OEM surface. Gary

Sick minds think alike I guess, I was thinking snow tires 3 weeks ago. And I also thought about using a set of temp rims, for my '87 RX that means 15 x 4, now all I need is to find a good set of snow tires for an old VW and I'll be set, I wish they made Hakkapeliitta's in a 165/75R15. Gary

I was planning to go to this one, but its looking like if I do it may be just to watch and meet a few of you guys. My RX has a busted windshield and I wont have the cash to fix it before the 18th, Its pretty bad, do you think the safety steward will let me run? (see pic). And I still don’t have helmets, the ones I have are all to old to meet spec, I know I could borrow one for me, but my 13 year old daughter has her heart set on riding with me and I’d feel horrible if I ran without her, anybody have a kid size helmet I could borrow or buy if its cheap enough? Gary

The final drive of the RX FT 5speed D/R and the PT 5speed D/R are very close. Without all the math…. RX F/T 5speed D/R 5th gear ratio = .871 Final drive = 3.7:1 Tire size = 185/70HR13 (23.2” Dia.) 3268rpm @ 70mph 3735rpm @ 80mph 4WD P/T 5speed D/R 5th gear ratio = .780 Final drive = 3.9:1 Tire size = 175/70SR13 (22.6” Dia.) 3167rpm @ 70mph 3620rpm @ 80mph These numbers seem to agree with my ’87 RX Gary

Hey Cupper Two ideas for ya.... I believe that there is a second fuel filter under the car near the pump. And, I'd tee in a pressure gauge where the fuel line connects to the fuel rail, the book should give you a minimum spec. Gary

I think the model change came in '86 so I dont think the '85 will fit an '87, someone else may know more. Related question (semi-hijack): Are all L-series windshields the same? Will one from a wagon fit in a 3-door? They look the same but seem to measure a bit different. Gary

I’m with 91Loyale on this one. Double clutching is completely unnecessary with a full synchromesh trans in good working order, the transmission itself has all the necessary parts to match the shaft speeds… they are called Synchronizers! (Sorry to be a smartass). The synhrcos have a cone area that leads the teeth and starts to wedge with the gear, this matches the shaft speeds before the synchro teeth engage. If reduced wear is your aim just shift a bit slower, this will give the synchros time to do there job more completely and still be faster than double clutching, and without the extra wear on the clutch (which is far more likely to wear out than a gearbox). If you doubt this conclusion then consider this... when you make a normal shift, without double clutching or RPM matching, when does the lurch occur? When you let out the clutch, right? Not when you shift. At this point the gears are already meshed, it’s the inertia of the engine and flywheel that you feel, and this can be lessened by simple RPM matching before the clutch is engaged. Now, can double clutching help reduce grinding or hard shifting, Yes. But his is only compensation for worn or abused parts. In this case double clutching can postpone the eventual trans rebuild. Double clutching and clutchless shifting can be fun to perfect and are neat tricks to impress the girls, but good stick technique and RPM matching are all you need to be smooth and quick without grenading the transmission. Gary

SCUBAru?? Sorry, I just couldn't help it. Gary

Given that it works at idle and WOT it might be a bad TPS, if its FI. Gary

No way man those things are the Shiz…. I made my own from a shredded Bud can, it doubled my mileage and added 100 Hp, my ’82 Camaro has never ran better. And it’s a big hit with chicks in my trailer park. P.S. no intended offence to those who like ’82 Camaro’s or trailer parks.

Yep the EA82 is a CV on the rear outer and it does have a spring clip, some pop right off with a good blow of the brass hammer, others wont budge with a vice and a 10lb sledge, and a hyd press is the only way. I’ve rebooted several axels and if doesn’t come easy I just disassemble the inner DOJ and replace the boot from that side. I’m wondering why you would need the extra extension of two DOJs? Is it because you are changing the suspension layout? Or is it to get more wheel travel? How will the DOJs handle the steeper angle, that’s normally the limiting factor with CV/DOJ joints. Anybody know the max safe operating angle for the subie joints? Gary

I’ve done it both ways, knuckle in and out, out is a lot easier (and cleaner as Dave said), and doesn’t really take much longer unless you have a tie rod end that wont let go. I don’t drop strut, just unbolt knuckle from it (like vwbuge). When driving in the new bearings make sure you only strike the outer race, If you hit the inner race the force will transfer through the balls and may damage the bearing. Gary

I think the valving for gas will be very different than what you would need for oil. You might start with aftermarket oil struts and attempt a oil switch, but I doubt you could drill and tap the cartage with getting some metal inside which would lead to a quick seal failure. I’ve been doing some thinking on this issue, the back is no problem as its really a coil over set up, revise the upper mount and the options are endless. The front is the real challenge, I think the best solution would be to find a cartage style strut that would fit inside a modified stock strut tube. If the cartage was sourced from modern sports car there should be a good choice of performance options. For direct fit stuff the RX struts are stiffest, and I think KYB has RX spec replacements. I haven’t really looked into it to deeply yet, if I come up with any thing I’ll be sure to post. Gary

No problem, glad to help and thanks for lunch. And keep us updated on the project. Gary Sorry tregare, the H-6 engines are all fuel injection (at least in the US) and its not a direct fit in a L-series car, but it could be done with a fair bit of custom work (I've been considering wedging one in my RX).

I think so baccaruda, but in my case its the drop I'm looking for, at least for street. The only thing to watch for if you install the shorter springs on longer struts is coil bind at full trounce. But if you thinking of using the shorter struts as well, all you really loose is travel. Watch your caster and camber angles when you design your spacers as they make a big differance on handleing. Gary