All_talk

I’ve been thinking/working with the VW reduction box (that’s what VW calls them) idea for a few years now. The rear could be adapted without to much fuss (custom arms, hubs, brakes and axels), but the front is the real challenge, you have to create a portal “spindle” so you can turn. You could avoid this problem by mounting the portals inboard on the transaxle and differential, but you would loose the added ground clearance they can give you, and might create some wheelbase issues. Not to mention the reverse torque reaction you get with portals on a trailing arm rear suspension can be tricky to drive (rear end raises on heave throttle). The best drive gear for a rear engine buggy is the 4WD stuff from the VW Syncro Vanagon, it has a viscous front coupling and a locking rear diff (and lock front diff can be added with some work), but if you can find this rare gear be ready to write a BIG check. Gary

The HH cable adjustment controls where in the clutch peddle travel the valve activates, I have mine adjusted so that it only catches at full peddle travel, well beyond clutch disengagement, this way I can choose when I want to use it. The angle required to activate that valve is adjusted by shimming the front or back of the HH valve mount, if yours is working on flat or near flat ground you should add a shim to the back or remove one from the front, the adjustment procedure is in the manual. Hope that helps. Gary

Maybe we should all put our IM stuff in our sigs? Gary

Typically the inner and outer splines have different tooth counts, fine and coarse (I know the old VW stuff does), by mixing inner and outer changes you get very small increments of adjustments. With a little math you can calculate the change at the wheel per spline. On the VeeWee stuff the outers are the coarse set, one spline is about 2” lower, if that’s to much you go back up a spline or to on the fine inner set. I’m sure the Subie system works the same. Gary

I just noticed this was Brad's first post and given the responce it may be his last. Sorry about that Brad and WELCOME to the board. Gary

I don’t know how to disconnect the seatbelt bell and I’m not sure I would tell anyone if I did… you might go and kill yourself and I’d feel bad, you family wants to sue and all that, blah, blah, blah. Not to mention it’s a VERY BAD IDEA! You had to know this would turn into a seatbelt debate thread, and I’ll through in my two cents as well… DRIVING IS NOT YOUR RIGHT, it is a privilege granted to you buy the state and is subject to the provisions they deem necessary. Typically I’m not in favor of rules designed to protect people from themselves but this one is a no-brainer, there is just no good excuse not to wear your seatbelt. In fact, if cars contained a properly designed belt system that people faithfully used, all the extra supplemental impact stuff like air bags would not be necessary and new cars would cost thousands less. I was belting in my kids and wearing them myself (lead by example) long before it was the law, because it was smart and responsible. In the end you can choose not to wear your seatbelt, you can even modify you vehicle so you are not annoyed by the little bell telling you that you are an idiot (not meant as a personal attack), after all it is a free country. But with rights and freedoms comes responsibilities and obligations, so make your choice, but I don’t wanna hear any complaining when its time to pay the price, be that the ticket or your death. Gary P.S. if this post is out of place as Keith suggests then mods please move, edit or remove as necessary.

I've had the same thought, is there enough meat to pull it off? Gary

Yeah, as far as I can find, nobody aftermarket does anything with them. I guess I'll look for a good used spare before I open mine up, once I know what I need I'll have to send you a list. Just to get an idea on price can you look up the price on the 1st gear syncro? Thanks for you effort Gary

I'm sure I'm not the only one who might need some tranny parts so I'll give this the... Bump.

Two things to consider, first, fuel system parts in the passenger compartment can be VERY dangerous and is most likely illegal, maybe a safer external location or skid plate would be better. Second, Electric fuel pumps don’t “pull” very well, which is why the factory puts them close to the tank and near the level of the tank bottom, any relocation should do the same. Gary

Hey Its most likely in the switch, as far as I've been able to figure out the early Subarus dont use headlight relays. Open up the column and take a look could be just a gummed up sitcky switch, if not look for a junkyard replacment. Gary

Hey Peter I did exactly what you’re talking about to my ’87 GL wagon. I had a brand new “turbo” type muffler (it came off my dads ’89 Buick, it was louder than the stock one so he replaced it) and no money so I made it fit. I cut the stock one off the tail pipe and with the hanger rods off the stock muffler and a piece of tail pipe from one of my junkers I fashioned it up, works great. I have to run to Spokane right after work, but I’ll try to snap a few pics of it tomorrow. Gary

As I understand it the only place to get parts is the dealer and since we now have an inside guy I figured I’d ask. I’m hoping to rebuild my RX tranny, its working well now, just a little stiff on the shifts (to be expected with 260,000 miles), so all I should need is bearings, seals, gaskets and syncros. Any info you could provide would be great, drawings, part numbers, pricing and such. Available as a kit or piece at a time? Gary

Could someone just post a decent jpeg of the poster (good scan or transfrom direct from file)? That way we could just print out our own 8 1/2 x 11 copies to hand out locally, possible?? Gary

Most hubs are thicker where the lugs go through and thinner in between (not sure about the ones in question), there may not be much meat to hold the stud and could be VERY dangerous. Best to take a close look at the hub. Gary

You guys are giving me a great idea for an event… The USMB Old School Subaru Shootout Just imagine all the top guys on the board get together to put up or shut up. Maybe a three event format, ¼ Mile, AutoX and RallyX, with individual and overall honors. Whatta ya think... maybe at WCSS7? Gary

Cabin Air Filter is the name I've heard it called, I dont if your car has one, most older cars dont, but yours being a 2003 I would think it would. Maybe call the dealer? Gary

Take a look at what the VeeWee guys have been doing for decades with flat four carbs. Similar engine sizes so the same carbs should work with a little re-jetting, spread bore 40, 45 and 48mm Dells and Webers for duel ports and the 40mm Solexs (“Kadrons”) for the singles. Manifolds are the only issue, but aluminum welds, cuts and files pretty easy. Here are some links to good VW info: Basic run down of vw carb options: http://www.aircooled.net/gnrlsite/resource/articles/carbs101.htm Weber stuff: http://www.scatenterprises.com/weberperformancecarbkits.html Some pricing on this kinda stuff: http://www.socalautoparts.com/HotVWs_Ad/HotVWs_Ad_p12.html Gary

It looks a bit familiar to me (which pretty much excludes a Lotus, as I can't even afford to look at one :-\ ), my guess is Triumph Spitfire/GT6. Gary

Check your axle nuts!

Cross-reference is great, but normally requires lots of research. The only good cross-reference I know of are the books that the junkyard guys have, I’ve always wanted a set of those, I wonder how much they cost. Gary BTW, I know that site because I have a Z, do you?

Most A/Ts have a vent and can push out fluid, this normaly only happens when the fluid gets pretty hot (like when towing) and the fluid is very full. You may have been just a bit over full, if it doesn't happen again you should be fine. Note: I dont know what the rated towing capacity for the OB is (if any), but if you are going to be towing regularly I would look into a external tranny cooler. And, if the trans is a 4 speed with overdrive, I'd probably shift down to 3ed on the hills (even little ones), rebuilding A/Ts is VERY expensive, best to avoid it. Gary

Hey baccaruda, I'm planning on making it down, I'll be coming from Ellensburg down Hwy 97 to I-84 at Biggs OR. What day/time are you heading out? maybe we could meet up on 84 or something. Gary

I'm with Corky, get a good vacuum gauge on it, make sure you connect it at the manifold with a relatively short large line. You don’t want the signal to be buffered or smoothed, you need to see the variations. I’d also do a compression check, bad valve timing can show there as well. Keep us posted. Gary

Like BlueSoob said, its designed to only work when the nose of the car is higher by a measured amount (3 degrees I think, the FSM shows a procedure to shim the valve to adjust the angle). I like mine and do use it from time to time, I have it adjusted so that it only catches with the clutch pedal flat on the floor, well passed the engagement point of the clutch so I can choose when to engage it. Gary