All_talk

You and I think a lot alike. And yes, as SubaruStyles said SPFI is the highest at 9.5:1, from what I understand CR changes were all piston changes and all the head volumes (and assuming shapes) are the same. I have often thought about some type of on demand octane enrichment, through grade mixing or “booster” injection but nothing seem practical. You propane proposition may have merit in this train of thought, not as a true octane boost, but boost controlled charge cooling would work to the same end. I did a little research on the available systems use for turbo diesels but they all use dry injection and we of course need the phase change to happen in the intake stream to get the cooling effect, looks like we may be on new ground here. One potential problem is that propane stays liquid at relatively low pressures near ambient temperatures, assuming decent intercooling, it may be a real balancing act between charge pressure and charge temp to get complete phase change (time to dig out the thermo books). Though I’m sure there would be enough heat in the cylinder to complete the change and I suppose the end effect would be the same. Thoughts? Gary P.S. NorthWet, did you receive my PM? Anyway, I would like to learn more on the subject, can you point me to any articles or maybe we could talk some time and you could share what you have learned.

I’m coming to the conclusion that the flywheel in my RX is much heavier than I’d like, so I’d like a lighter one too. I have heard the one from the XT6 is the lightest but I don’t know how much lighter, wonder if anyone has the weights? Most stock flywheels can have some weight safely removed, don’t know how much the EA82 can loose but a look at the XT6 one might shed some light. Gary

I think you have to break down the trans to change the output bearings, maybe even reset the gear mesh, bummer. Gary

Now were talking... I like the way you think. I know what you mean about factual information, you never get access to the factory engineering and so much of the aftermarket research is seat-o-the-pants/trial-n-error, not that it doesn’t work well, it’s just with out engineering data to work with its very hard to extrapolate from and build on what others have done. As far as a hi-po bottom end for the EA82… I think there are a few tricks we can borrow from the air-cooled VW guys as the cases are a very similar design (and they squeeze up to 200hp out of a motor that started with 65hp). Forged pistons (affordable) are a real stumbling block, I think the stockers should be good for 180ish hp with a extended RPM range (8000ish), but forged sure would be nice. Has anyone looked at sourcing them from another engine, maybe with some mods? Somewhere around Dec I should be getting some machining capability in my home shop… then things could get real interesting. Gary

But wasn't that with higher than stock boost? Its all a balance of CR, octaine, timing, boost and intake charge temp. Personal I think a 9:1ish CR should work fine with a good IC and prem fuel. I'd like to build an engine with SPFI pistons and hemi cut/unshrouded valve heads, target CR would be 8 to 8.5. Oh the things I could build if I were rich with no job. Gary

For a little insight into the inner workings of the Subie 5 speed check this thread. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=15410&page=1&pp=10 I can see what you mean about the RX gear range, when floggin the car hard I think the raios are well mached the the engines power band, but for normal driving a skip gears a lot. Gary

I’m sure you could weld the center diff, trouble is I’m betting all the parts in that diff are hardened high carbon steel and wont weld well, they tend to develop cracks (skipping all the metallurgical talk about heat effected zones, precipitant carbon, crystalline structure, cyclic loading and fatigue failure). Might be better to look for a mechanical way to lock it up, in the same way a spool is used in a rear diff. OR, (like others have said) switch to a non-full time trans. The range of Subaru trannys can be confusing, so to simplify… Excluding 2WDs, Autos and 4 speeds, here are the options for the EA82 cars Single range 5 speed 4WD (push button, 3.9:1 front diff) Dual range 5 speed 4WD (1.5:1 low, 3.9:1 front diff) Single range 5 speed full time 4WD (locking center diff, 3.7:1 front diff) Dual range 5 speed full time 4WD (RX trans, locking center diff, 1.2:1 low, 3.7:1 front diff) I think the D/R 5 speed 4WD is the one you want, but note the 3.9:1 front diff (will be fine with out front drive) and the lower “low” range. Also, the D/R shift lever pattern is 2WD Hi – 4WD Hi – 4WD Lo, not the Lo – N – Hi in the RX, might make on the fly shifting a bit more tricky (half gear shifting makes the RX big fun, that 1.5 gear is great for the tight corners). The 3.9:1 diff trannys also have more open gearing (as JWX said), so it won’t pull as quick through the gears. Hope this helps Gary

Where at in central WA, I'm in Ellensburg, let me know if she needs any help. Gary

There are many things that will keep it from running, fuses, pressure switches and such, Unfortunately, you will need to check them one by one, A FSM will be a big help here. Assuming the system holds a charge, fuses are a good start, you say you checked one (under the hood I assume), but there is another that powers the switching side of the circuit, its in the fuse panel and is NOT labeled A/C (I don’t remember which one off hand), so check em all. After that follow the wiring diagram and jumper or bypass each component tell you find the problem. Gary

As to manufacturing “new” Brats, there are some fundamental differences in car construction from 1980 to today, safety standards are the big roadblock. Meeting them would require a major redesign of just about everything under the outer sheet metal (read that BIG money), and the market would be very small. Would you pay $100,000+ for a new ’78 Brat… I thought not. Note: Volkswagen when through this very process after being inundated with letters from air cooled Beetle fans who wanted new ones imported (they were still being built in Mexico at the time). Even with the large fan base for the old Beetle (MUCH larger than for old Subarus) it just didn’t add up, their solution… the New Beetle. Gary

Grab the shaft and give it a good hard wiggle, dose it move around qiute a bit? If the bearing behind the seal is sloppy it will never hold a seal for very long. Gary

So you say its clunks on gear change and deceleration.... Could be a lot of things, but I'd check the motor/tranny mounts first. Gary

You might check with the "conversion perversion" forum over on Shoptalk. http://shoptalkforums.com/ Gary

Your right 2deg shouldn’t be excessive, have you tried chalking the tires and adjusting the pressure? I’ve done some recent reading on brake line upgrades, the consensus seems to be that unless your OEM lines are in REALLY bad shape the upgrades will make no noticeable difference. Most of the people claming big changes in pedal feel did other changes/upgrades to the brake system along with the lines. Just passing that along as I have no personal experience. You can change the rear toe, its adjusted at the three bolts that mount the di-angle arm to the trailing arm, by moving them for and aft. Note: this is also where you adjust the camber by tilting this connection and one adjustment will effect the other. Minfo might help get to the bottom of the oversteer issue: Spring rates Damping rates Sway bar sizes Caster, camber and toe settings Gary

Before you go messin with the brakes lets look at the problem and be sure your solution addresses the real cause. There are three “in turn” conditions to consider, braking, rolling, accelerating, your oversteer on braking might be due to a general (rolling) traction imbalance that’s amplified by the weight shift. Run a corner without gaining or loosing much speed, run it fast enough to induce a slide (please do this in a safe place), a wet road or parking lot will let you do this at a much lower speed. Does the car under or oversteer? The solution for rolling oversteer and braking oversteer can be different. The rear toe-in would normally help, but under hard braking the rear is so unloaded it will have little effect, it will most likely just induce understeer on corner exit (accelerating) where there is more weight on the rear. If I had to make a guess based on what you’ve said so far I would bet the loss of traction is due to excessive negative camber causing less tire contact. Remember, negative camber is used to compensate for body roll, and has to be balanced against spring rates, sway bar rates and center of gravity. Changing the brake bias will effect straight line braking as well, from the factory most cars are very forward biased because its safer (for most untrained drivers) to understeer upon lockup. Adding more front bias to solve your oversteer problem may result in the front brakes doing vertualy all the work. Suspension tuning should come first. Gary

I’ve had the spindle nut loosen up on both my Subes, typically a few hundred miles after having it apart for some reason. I’d feel a little vibration or hear a noise in slow corners, but never stripped a hub. I’ve seen quite a few old VWs strip hubs due to under torqued nuts, most times the axel is damaged to some degree as well, which results in continually stripping hubs regardless of nut torque, I think I’d replace the axel too. Gary

I haven't had a cable on my '87 wagon for some time now (guy at the tire shop pulled it out for me :-\ ), I just reach up under the bumper and trip it with my finger, no A/C though. I should see if it can be done on my RX with A/C, just in case. Gary

He said Auto right? Sounds like its time to look for a good used one. Gary

Hey Snowman An ’89 you say, is it black? If the car is in really nice shape it might be worth a full rebuilt engine, if its more average a used engine would probable make more sense. On the short block, if it blew a HG and got hot the major worries will be: 1. Was it run with water in the oil, very bad for the bearings and journals 2. Did it get hot enough to de-temper the rings, low compression and will burn oil. 3. Has it sat with moisture in the cylinders from the bad HG, will cause cylinder wall pitting. I’ve had good luck with JY engines but have never bought one for a Sube. Best of luck Gary

Hey Steven In my experience when tires get close to the end of their life they often (almost always) develop balance problems, try rotating the tires and see if the shimmy changes or moves to a different part of the car. CV joints certainly can cause vibration, even before they give you any other signs of wear, but when they do start “talking” to you its normally a clicking sound when turning sharp and slow. Low speed moaning with a higher speed vibe sounds like it could be wheel bearings, the fronts aren’t to spendy and are pretty easy to do if you have a few tools. Maybe some other board member there could help diagnose/repair it with you. Good luck Gary

Yeah.... I get a kick outa the WRX guys calling there cars "REX".... dont they know that this is the REAL Subaru REX.

Kick *****.... I think the L seires Subies look best as the wagon, I wish the factory would have built the RX wagon, some day I may build one like you. But remember the RX tranny is D/R and the shift back to high range is well matched as a 6th gear, with the 1.2:1 low range its like having 6 speed with a 4.44:1 diff. Gary

Reduction boxes are found on '54-'67 VW busses, there were some ratio and other changes through the years too. They were designed to be used on the swingaxle tannys but I think they could be adapted to independant with some creative machine and fab work. If you are willing to run the VW brakes and wheels, things would be much simpler. Here are some pics of the VW units.

I’ve been thinking/working with the VW reduction box (that’s what VW calls them) idea for a few years now. The rear could be adapted without to much fuss (custom arms, hubs, brakes and axels), but the front is the real challenge, you have to create a portal “spindle” so you can turn. You could avoid this problem by mounting the portals inboard on the transaxle and differential, but you would loose the added ground clearance they can give you, and might create some wheelbase issues. Not to mention the reverse torque reaction you get with portals on a trailing arm rear suspension can be tricky to drive (rear end raises on heave throttle). The best drive gear for a rear engine buggy is the 4WD stuff from the VW Syncro Vanagon, it has a viscous front coupling and a locking rear diff (and lock front diff can be added with some work), but if you can find this rare gear be ready to write a BIG check. Gary

The HH cable adjustment controls where in the clutch peddle travel the valve activates, I have mine adjusted so that it only catches at full peddle travel, well beyond clutch disengagement, this way I can choose when I want to use it. The angle required to activate that valve is adjusted by shimming the front or back of the HH valve mount, if yours is working on flat or near flat ground you should add a shim to the back or remove one from the front, the adjustment procedure is in the manual. Hope that helps. Gary