All_talk

Y-pipes make power, especially on the low end. All other things being equal I think you will loose power without it. Gary

I figured I’d go ahead and map the EA82 flows on the only available map for the stock turbo (RHB5-VF7). The map doesn’t tell much but if you in vision where the efficiency lines might be you can see why it struggles at higher boost levels, in fact all the flows are near the edge. The map shows two compressor trims, I’m assuming the Subaru version is the 393B or similar. Gary

Hey guys The total cost of rebuilding the EA drive train in my ’87 RX (270,00 miles, still running well) makes a lower mile EJ swap look very attractive (EJ22T would be real nice), so I’m looking into it and wondering about trans options. I hear the legacy MT5 is a good box and will handle a good amount of power, but what about a locking center diff? I love that about the RX trans, I’m willing to give up the D/R, but an open center diff in no-go for me. What are the options, WRX, Sti ? I need an EJ education Gary

Look at the duel setups for the air cooled VWs, same engine size range and layout, the research has all been done. Just get a set of 44mm weber spread bores with manifolds ($$$:-\), and old Subie manifold, some cutty some weldy and Vroom, Vroom, big power. Like all cool stuff automotive, all it takes is time and money. Gary

My '97 Suburban with the Vortec 350 has the stiffest off idle pedal I've ever felt, you have to persuade it very gently off a stop, and its an auto. Gary

Like all roads lead to Rome, all oil leaks (engine, gear and CV) on the Subie seem to lead to the front cat.:-\ Gary

Tex, Great info on the install, you lead, we will follow, your post reads like my wish list. Couple of questions, what’s the minimum boost RPM and lag compared to the stocker? How much boost are you running, any plans for supplemental fuel? It seems that stock ECU runs very rich at WOT/full boost, I wonder how much boost we can add before the stock system starts to lean out? Are you running an AF or EGT? Thanks shadow, I’ll be happy to share whatever work I do. My VE numbers are based on typically accepted “standards” for traditional 2 valve heads. I don’t have a torque graph for the EA82T, nor am I exactly sure how to extrapolate the VEs from it. If you have the graph and the theory/formula (or just better numbers) I’d love to know what you know. Was it Garner that used the angled “adapter” on the up pipe? Russ and majjjord, so is the TD04 clockable if you mod the waste gate mount? Gary

:-p Clockable means you can rotate the inlet and/or outlet housing (scroll) to line up with the plumbing. The center cartridge must be oriented so the oil drain is vertical (or very near), clocking makes the install much easier. Some turbo have indexable clocking because of a bolt pattern, so you can turn the housings tell the holes line up again, the RHB5 and many others use clamping plates and can be rotated to any angle. Gary

Hey guys In my never ending search for the non-existent compressor map of the RHB5-VF7, I found one for the stock WRX turbo (TD04-13G). I figured I’d see how well it matched up to the EA82, since it’s been proposed at a possible up grade. Well guess what… it matches VERY well! For boost pressures between stock (7psi) and around 15psi (about all I’d want to push the EA82) the flow stays within about the 75% island. The first table is the flow estimates in CFM and cubic meters per second (CM/s), the big margin for error in these numbers is the volumetric efficiency, but should be fairly close, if anybody has a torque curve for the stock EA82T we might be able to get a bit more accurate. The graph shows the flow numbers over the compressor map for the working RPM range of 3000-6000. Note that the 7 to 15psi flows fall right in the heart. The real bonus here is that “take off” low mile WRX turbos can be had for less than the cost of rebuilding the stocker. The down side in higher minimum boost RPM and increased lag, but I think mods to open up the intake and exhaust will buy back most of the loss. There are some mounting issues beyond changing flanges, but they could be addressed while creating better flowing up and down pipes, dose anyone know if the TD04 is clockable like the RHB5? Anyway, thought some of you might want to see this stuff. Gary

This is in your GL-10 Turbo right? From reading the FSM it appears that the ECU doesn’t use the O2 sensor under boost, and others have observed the same full rich reading you have, I’m guessing the fuel map is dumping extra fuel to cool the intake charge and reduce the chance of detonation (common solution in factory turbo cars). Are you are seeing full rich off boost? If so, it could be an engine or a gauge problem, if the engine is truly running rich most/all the time the plugs will show it (fuzzy black with carbon). Gary

How did you like E-burg? Its a nice little town, I love it here. And yes, soobs a plenty, all years and types. I stopped pointing them out to my wife when she said "you are really obsessed with those things". Now I'll only point out the really cool ones (like this really sweet SVX I see all the time). I've been driving back and forth over that pass five days a week for almost 10 years now (how many miles is that... I dont wanna know), and there are two things I have observed... 1. When high riding SUVs step a toe off the flat part of the road they almost always flip. 2. Apparently the laws of physics dont apply to Subarus, they pass everybody (even me until I got one of my own) and you never see one in the ditch. Some days in the winter I swear half the cars up there are Soobs. Gary

ahh... that will buff right out. I've got a better plan for the car tho, how about you sell it to me real cheap... my RX sure could use a EJ22T:grin: Gary

My '87 carbed GL wagon has a black air cleaner. :-p Gary

Safe, we dont need safe, we need cool fun in the sun... my soliution, take one '59 VW convertible and chop the top, makes for the coolest short windshield, but you don’t ever want to flip this one. BTW, the "cloth sliding sunroof" was an option on the early VeeWees, I have one to put in my '57 Sedan, they also came in the 21/32 window deluxe busses, very sweet (not my bus, but I wish) Gary

Double check the CV, I had one that wasn't torn but was leaking grease from under the band that seals it to the DOJ. Gary

Wow, very cool... me too, me too. Gary

The LSD was an option, so it could turn up on any Legacy, but as far as “standard equipment”, I believe Josh is correct, ’91 turbo only. Gary

I found a link to the old page, hope it works for everybody else. http://usmb.net/repair/?CurrentDirectory=FOLDER_3f29b58f50d9b8.15492800/&FileType=Article&File=ARTICLE_3f57fdb83de231.34713659.art

Keep in mind if you do this you will now be drawing warmer air from within the engine compartment, not the cooler air from in the fender well. Just about every car since the early ’80 has had the intake routed in front of the core support or into the fender well to pick up unheated air, I always get a kick out of the after market “cold air intakes” that put a cone filter under the hood. Not that the stock air box isn’t restrictive, but why do a performance mod that only goes half way and negates most if not all of the gain. Gary

The electric fan is actually the stock one and the mechanical one was added to the A/C cars. If you don’t have A/C you should be fine with one (or two) of the stock type electric ones. If you do have A/C (and use it) I’d stick with the mechanical one, or if you do want to go with twin electric get a high flow aftermarket one, I don’t think the stock electric one can pull near the air that the mechanical does, just look at the size and pitch of its blades. The amount of power saved buy switching from a mechanical fan to an electric is a bit of a myth, if the mechanical clutch fan is functioning properly it only pulls when the rad is hot and needs it. The electric fan requires power too, and its power is subject to two electo-mechanical conversion (alternator and fan motor), both of which have about a 70% conversion efficacy, so the electric one requires about 50% more input power for the same output. Gary

Well there are really two common governor problems… First, drive gear “apple core” type wear, most common with earlier plastic gears, can be replaced with metal gears that came standard in later trannys. Second, wear in the spool valve causes sharp burrs that make the valve stick, makes for a host of shifting problems. Fix involves removing, de-burring and cleaning, and re-installing, there WAS a good write-up in the “repair manual”, but it looks to be missing now. Stephenw22, if you have it maybe you could send it to the admins so they can re-post it. Gary

I found 11x 1.25 inserts… in the UK. http://www.toolsnextday.ltd.uk/Helicoil_Kits/helicoil_kits.htm I checked a few more charts and catalogs... found taps in the MSC catalog but no inserts. Gary

Is that really the head both thread? My engineering charts dont even show that one. Gary

Might be the infamous governor problem, though that’s not how mine reacted. I think the procedure in the repair manual section may have been lost.:-\ Maybe someone can find it for you. Gary

OK, that the risk of being unpopular (never was anyway), I’ll ask the question… Beyond the incredibly fashionable Chirp-Pffiisssst noise, is there any good reason to run a non-recirculate valve? Perhaps simplified plumbing, but certainly no performance gain, right? And a properly routed recirc should reduce spool time in On-Off-On throttle episodes (like shifting). No offence to those who like the sound, its cool and all, but its just for show right, or I’m I missing something here? Gary