tweety

wow! it is very similar. kind of like a dual throat version of the Subie SPFI. thanks for that. what models does the unit come in.?

At this point guys I have no plans to install a supercharger to the SPFI unti about to go on. The engine and indeed the engine that will replace this current engine next year are stock EA81. Absolutely stock....no mods. My spare engine will be fully reconditioned next year and I have no mods planned except rebore, raise the compression from 8.7 to the spec 9.5:1 that it should have either by SPFI pistons or head shave. I admit that a EJ22 or 20 in the first place when I embarked on Subaru transplant would ahve been better. But now that I've forked out for an adapter and exhaust then I cant see the justification of going EJ now. My needs are to have enough power and torque to satisfy easy riding and to tow that small van without having to change down to 2nd gear on the auto all the time. 90hp will give me that power. So I will be happy with SPFI. In the current SC set up there is ZERO lag!! low down power is great. when the auto changes from first to second the front wheel does lift a little if desired.

Northwest I think our gallon is 4.55 litres and your gallon is 3.9 litres. The pics you guys are seeing with the air filter are the old pics before I shortened the Nissan manifold. I shortened ti to allow for air trumpets and a larger air filter box on the air filter housing. Now I just use air trumpets and socks for filters until I renew my spare engine and install SPFI. As afar as flutuations and that is concerned its beyond my knowledge. But I think the way to go is SPFI for simplicity. I have over the last week been laying out the sPFI loom and manifold TB and find it rather easy to figure out the conversion with the help of this site. Then if one day I decide to supercharge it I would buy a twin screw Sprintex blower and install a clutch. The SPFI might then need a second smaller injector for boost only. I dont know if the standard sPFI injection system would cater for the extra fuel the engine would demand with boost, even 5psi. I will say that 7psi is likely the ideal. It is the amount that doesnt demand water injection even an itnercooler IMO and iostn overstressing the engine. This of course can be achieved with a larger crank pulley or smaller charger pulley. Those interested can find the formula on the itnernet. I worked it all out and was spot on with my calculations. The manifold from the SC to the intake. inside it was made smooth with liquid weld. . This was the filter box made form an electrical box. later I discarded the box just to use the trumpets and socks The top mount for the SC Another shot of the Sc to intake manifold. Oh yeh, I started to get blow by so I install a catch can. Works good. Not much oil is caught but if not in a catch can then it can pop your dip stick and exit there. My previous car history with twin 40DCOE webers was on a Ford Escort twin cam (lotus powered). Other than than I have little experience. I want to now drift away from carbies forever lol

Some months ago I embarked on installing a Toyota SC12 to my Ea81. It was a steep learning curve for me as there was limited information available. I have a Australian Panther trike. Here in Australia if it had been done I couldnt find an owner that did it and had to rely on a VW site started up by a guy I became friends with - Joel, who'd installed one on a VW beetle. The SC12 and SC14 are similar chargers apart from the 14 being 50mm longer. They can be mounted on angles but the dip stick on the 12 would need to be plugged and oil levels couldnt be determined without raising them vertically. The Ea81 being the flat configuration allows room for the Sc to be mounted between the alternator and the centre intake on the manifold. At this point I'd like to mention that these chargers are somewhat ancient now, the dino's of the charger world. If you have the pennies and want to keep the Ea81 for your own reasons and not go EJ then I'd seek out a modern charger. A Sprintex Australian made one is ideal and used on other vehicles like Harley and Mini's. There are others. Do your research. You may only need to make you own manifolds inlet/outlet pieces so a bare SC might be much cheaper than you think. Draw through or blow through? Draw through is when you mount the charger so that a fuel/air mixture is drawn through the charger, pressurised and sent down the manifold to the chambers. This is the simplest method of installing a SC. The pros'- simple install, carbie isnt pressurised. Con's- poor economy, longitivity of SC internals unknown due to fuel travelling through it, SC longitivity unknown due to being used 100% of the time. Blow through is when the sC is mounted in such a way that it creates boost before the carbie thereby pressurising the carbie internals. This means you have to rebuild the carbie to cope with that. Filled flaot chamber for example so it doesnt implode. There are carbie manufactuers that can sell you one suitable if you prefer. The pro's- the SC can be clutched and used with an on/off switch this could be complex but will prove to be much more economical and will delay wear of the unit, the Sc is used in its conventional manner, The con's- mounting may be more difficult. I dont know an aweful lot about Fuel Injection. I have embarked on a SPFI conversion and may not install a supercharger to it. I chose draw through. In the end the system was dynoed. Pre install the EA81 had done around 400,000kms and at 320,000 kms had had new rings and bearings by the previous owner. The engine had 74hp at the fly and 59hp at the rear wheels. It is mated toa 3 speed type 3 VW automatic. After Sc install the figures were 100hp at the fly and 82 hp at the rear wheels. The boost was 4-5 psi achieved from a driver pulley of 135mm and the standard clutch pully of 120mm. The clutch pulley was drilled and bolted up for a solid unit. A 5 ribbed belt was used. I purchased my sC12 without intake and exit manifolds. Besides as my charger was going to be moutned close tot he intake those manifolds were of no use. If you are going to mount the Sc far away from the intake you might want to consider buying a SC12 with those standard units. I would highly recommend a turbo blow off valve in the custom manifold between the Sc and the intake. On the draw through you wont need the vacuum to be hooked up to it...it is used solely for when the engine backfires- releasing prssure from blowing your Sc to bits. It has worked several times on my set up. You can plumb the blow off back to your air filter body. Manifolds. Definately where the work is. I purchased a Datsun 1600 twin carb manifold on ebay and cut it in two. (See how the intakes on this manifold angle towards the middle)Then I had to shorten it for my application. I needed to make an adapter plate to mate the Dellorto 40DHLA carbie to to SC. Use 5mm steel plate not under that. You dont want air leaks. This manifold also has all vacuum controls like my auto kick down. One the other side I had water injection for a time. More on that later. The manifold from the sC to the intake was more difficult and had to be hand made from scratch. I made up a plate to fit the SC exit again 5mm thick then a piece of 50x100mm square tube (I mounted the blow off valve here). Then a vertical 75mm pipe to another plate (this time 10mm thick) that is bolted to the intake. In both manifold I used 3mm nitrile rubebr for sealing and works well. Prior to manifold fabrication though is the need to mount your SC. I made up my own mount and used an idle pully from a wrecker (junk yard for US) and you need to take your time lining up the pulleys. Make sure the belt is really tight. I made up a frame above the SC to secure it to the ea81 manifold. I mounted a switch to the ea81 manifold. This switch meant that as soon as there was boost it would switch on the water injection. I installed the water injection in a vain attempt to obtain better economy. It made no difference. My set up was using one litre of water every 10 minutes of boost. A 2.3 litre water container (windscreen washer unit) would easily last a tank of fuel. My WI unit wa s a snow performance unit and worked ok. But I suggest WI is for higher boosted engines. 5psi has made the engine transform. It is very torquey and pulls uphills easily. an example. (in MPH). A hill near my home town is steep and with the VW 1916cc twin carb engine I would climb it at 35mph in 2nd gear (auto). In the NA Ea81 at 45mph in 2nd gear. In the SC12 EA81 draw through it would power up there at 70mph in top gear. I think one big problem with these set ups with a carb is tuning. The jetting of the carbie wouldnt be ideal for every rev range. At certain revs my engine chuffs out a plume of black smoke. I have swapped jets both idel and main to limit this symptom but cant entirely. Overall I'm not happy with its fuel usage. My trike only weighs 550 kgms or 950lbs. US gallon is different than Oz gallons/litre so to make this simple whatever you achieve form your vehicle in terms of fuel usage estimate about 1.5 times that once a draw through SC is installed. So add 50% to your fuel bill. In my neck of the woods I was achieving 27-34mpg now 18-19mpg. Regardless of how hard you put your foot down- it matters not!. Nor the fuel you use in my case 95 but have tried others. I'm goign SPFI for that reason. Hoping with a rebuilt Ea81 with matched cam and rebore etc will get around 90hp in between the Ea81 NA and the SC system but with 30-36mpg. The dyno readout before and after. This report was meant to be a guideline and you can add your views and experiences. I'm no mechanic so its just my opinions based on building the system and living with it.

Bratrod. Here in Oz I have a few mates into Subaru's and one has been very helpful and lives nearby. I think he'll get the engien for storage to use between us as needed. The supercharger I'm undecided about. I will put on a new thread on the SC conversion as I think it is worth it for others to read. The pro's and the con's.

thanks Northwet. The two solonoids you refer to for the purge and the EGr are in the kit and will be discarded and replaced with resisters (read that from General Disorder on this site). My feeling is that this one is off another car. Either way it doesnt seem to fit any electrical connectors.

anyone recognize this item? it has vacuum in/out, an electrical connection and a push button on the end. was in the SPFI kit from your neck of the woods.

thanks crazy eights. turns out I have that part of the harness. all good.

Been a while since I've been on here. Got my Tweety trike in Oz. with eA81 and a sC12 Toyota supercharger with a VW auto 3 speed transmission. For poor economy reasons have decided to convert the EA81 to EA82 SPFI, a common conversion in the USA I see but not so here down under because we didnt get SPFI here. Also the converison might have a few extra issues bacause it isnt a Brat or Leone in that the wiring loom isnt Subaru. The SPFI kit containing its components form the States includes the loom, manifold, ECU, dizzy with eA81 driver gear and TB. However the following pictures are of a unit I believe to be the MAF sensor on the snorkel with 3 pins. I dont have a loom section for this unit. I've seen on some pictures on the web that the wires go straight into the Subaru loom near the guard eg they dont go into the loom at the rear of the TB. Can you guys tell me how it is hooked up to the ECU or where the connections go? Thanks in advance for any replied and pictures if possible.

Australian built Panther trike with custom roof has an ea81 mated to a VW auto transmission. The VW got replaced about 18 months ago with the ea81 and custom exhaust. The SC12 Toyota supercharger suck through was installed. Now looking at rebuilding another ea81 and adding ea82 SPFI as well as a blow through SC14. Tony Strathbogie Victoria Australia www.youtube.com/watch?v=HXwh4z8d66o

Well this thread has drawn to an end now. I got my dyno tune and it found that the idle jets on the 40 dellorto were too large at 52's. now they have 45's. Same output. recalibrated dizzy. all good. 82 HP at the wheels about 100 at the flywheel. Water injection working on boost completes the package.

the SC12 weighs 24lb on a trike weighing 1100lb. On 5psi only its performance increase is remarkable. As a comparison, on my way home I have a large hill about a mile long. Its steepness is such that with the 1916 VW engine twin webers at the steepest section it is flat out at 40mph in second gear on the 3 speed auto. With the stock ea81 Subie engine 50mph second gear, with the supercharger on a richly tuned engine 65mph maintaining top gear and likely could have gone faster but didnt want to push a rich engine. My other purpose of the SC apart form general overall performance is low torque for pulling our trailer/caravan which I havent tested yet. Having had this sC installed for the last 3 months or so I'm so satisfied with this easy set up, no electronics, no complications and an easily maintained engine...I'd recommend it to anyone wanting the same. For the above reasons supercharging a ea81 is a real alternative to the EJ series IF thats what you have already and want extra power and low down torque without the conversion issues. Our trailer. you can google ChevronRV Guppy

No I hadnt 1LT. The trike battery just needed a shock charge. its fine now. This little item finally arrived in my hands. Rocket had one on back order (although different as it was 12 volt.) Then a delay etc. This one works so that under 22 psi it wont suck water from the vacuum. So this w/end going to install that, take 5 minutes max. Then I have water injection. Test it, install the mini baffles on order then dyno. Picked up a S/hand electronic dizzy on ebay for $50 from a wrecker (sorry dismantler !!) and it turned out to be in VGC. There was even pink paint on the two screws securing the mudule on,,,,thinking it was there from new. shaft has no play etc. That dizzy made its way to Performance ignition Nunawading where it was dismantled, checked, oil hole enlarged (he told me it can be a problem with these as much can restrict oil access) and recalibrated for the supercharger. VW performance where the dyno is done will collect it and as soon as the baffles are installed dyno time. finally. yes Toonga....video before and after baffles

I wonder how it would perform with a supercharger.? Since Tweety has had his SC12 Toyota Sc installed with its impressive low down extra torque (30%) and more power (32%) on a humble 5psi boost I think bigger tyres than the ones I have on it is feasible. (295/50 r15's). soon to have water injection. So maybe a bonnet bulge is in order??

I turned the pump on, pumped some water through onto the garage floor then turned the pump off and could easily suck water through the pump LPGSB. So me think that pump isnt of the type you describe. Worth a try. Tony

Well mate, I didnt know that. Its all new to me. thanks LPGSB So you are saying that the snow performance 220psi pump wont allow water to be sucked under vacuum? If thats the case I can easily cancel the purchase of the solonoid or swap it for something else. I suppose all I have to do is suck on the tube and see if I can draw water? It also means I can actually test the system tomorrow. yippee!

:cool:At a standstill at present. have on backorder a check valve. then get the water injection working then another final dyno tune. stay tuned in 2 weeks

Thanks LPGSB...I have read a few stories of boost being used to pressurise a tank that would be used to squirt the water. interesting. Some progress after two days working on this trike. I've taken some advice to make certain there is no impeding of the airflow into the carbie. Used the base of the previous smaller airbox and installed a larger outer case. But this time air wont just enter from the front but enter at all sides. This will prevent the foam trumpet filters from getting wet. Intalled most of the water injection system except the injector and pressure switch. injector line was purchased from a hose retailer. got the 600psi stuff instead of 250psi. So now I have to take off the inlet manifold to install the single injector, get an adapter for the pressure switch to be mounted on the ea81 manifold, fit a relay to the pump and wire up the pressure switch, eventually fir a low water warning light, also a no flow light and get that last dyno tune.

Water injection. It isnt easy finding a simple boost switch unless you want one to come on at 5 or 10 psi. I wanted one to come on at 0.5 psi to activate the pump. Found one for $43 plus postage (Oz). This switch is made by a Chinese firm called LEFOO. Item number LF42. Not much info on the web except that its used for remote operation etc. Hooked it up to a test light and blew into it to find it only came on every second time I blew into it??? So pulled it apart. This is the switch Note the two white items on the right. When I pulled the switch off the diaphram housing it exposed these peices. One is a small rachet shaped like a hole saw and the other shaped like a space station lol. Anyway they were replaced with a small length of tube. reassembly and it works just as I wanted each time I blew into it. With the tube in place The discarded internals. This will be hooked up to the earth lead of the water injection pump and it will be mounted on the manifold with an extension peice. Rated at 80C temp. dont know the temp a manifold will get up to but play it safe.

Nitrile rubber 3mm thick was superb and highly recommended to seal manifolds that dont go above 90 degrees C. Have had delays but have compiled most of the parts for water injection. For those that have followed this project and dont know a alot about superchargers (and I didnt 6 months ago) when the engine gets boost form the blower detonation inside the combustion chambers can easily occur. A few measures can be taken to eliminate this. Retard the ignition. The ea81 Brat engine runs at about 8 degrees advance at idle and often runs to 32 degrees at full advance, The blown engine doesnt need this amount of advance so I had my electronic distributor recalibrated to alow it to run to 24 degrees at full advance. After a few days running it still detonated (pinged) up hills So I retarded the timing at idle from 8 degrees to 2 degrees and it vanished. However this meant I was not running the engine at its optimum power point. Water injection. Its been around since Adam was a boy. The concept is to inject water as a vapour into the combustion chamber to stop detonation so it allows you to run the timing at 8 degrees and not have pinging on boost. It will give more lower and 1 or 2 psi extra is common. How to install it? There are kit available. Autospeed have a DIY system that you make up using a 12volt/220volt inverter. There are some very good ideas on their web site. http://autospeed.com/cms/title_Water-Injection/A_107970/article.html . I decided to not go the inverter route and prchase a 220psi pump from Snow performance. They were really quick in replying to my emails too. http://www.snowperformance.net/ good service. Their 150 psi pump is no longer available. They have kits also. The pump is quiet in operation. So Tweety has a draw through system with a SC12 Toyota supercharger. Mening gas and air goes through the blower to the engine. There are many debates on the www about the best place to locate an injection nozzle/s for water injections. So I wont bore you with the arguements. I've decided to palce it between the carbie and the blower. My reasons? 1/ even though I'm running only 5 psi the blower doesnt get very warm. adding water vapour to the mix will have a cooling effect on the lobes as well as a sealing effect that could add 1 or 2 psi to the boost. 2/ placing it after the carbie wont casue rusting issues to components in the carbie 3/ That manifold has vacuum, the injector wont be battling against boost. The components. Nozzle/s. Any smaller than 0.3mm and atomisation wont happen. Neither will it happen with less than about 80psi. Snow also have very small nozzles. I ordered their smallest nozzle that if running continuously will empty the small tank in 25 minutes. So with this revellation only one nozzle is required. Snow nozzles come with a small filter insode them so you want easy access to it for cleaning. Water tank On tweety weight has been creeping up with the roof mod and supercharger and radiator etc. So I'm not wanting to carry the normal quantity of water like you would a car say 1.5 gallons. So I found a 2.5 litre 0.6 US gallon windscreen washer tank in black which will help with algae. Water injection will only be used on boost. I'm hoping I will use one tank of water to one tank of gas. When towing our trailer (caravan) it will be on boost more often. Filter I've taken Autospeeds advice and purchased a caravan fridge filter. They come with quick release hose ends and last 1500 gallons. great idea. Pump 220 psi Snow performance pump. A relay is recommended. Tubing Common water injection line Pressure switch Many pressure switches on the market come on at 5, 10 or 15psi boost. I found one in Oz that turns on at 0.5 psi. To be hooked up to the pump earth wire. Check valve. This valve before the nozzle stops the vacuum sucking water when the pump isnt operating. That's it. I'd also recommend reading up on the web for your application. I'm hoping to install it in the next week or so.

Thanks Mykeys Toy I've had one suggestion that the airbox is too small and would/could contribute to the rich running of the engine and affect economy. So I'll seek out another large one the same as the original one I cut down (but wont be cut down this time as I have more room since shortening the carbie manifold) I wan tit totally finished with water injection and reliable before I get another dyno LPGsuperchargedbrumby infomed us of risk of detonation above 7psi and water injection will take it to 10psi before det takes hold. Everytime I take it for a run the power and torque impresses me so much. So I wont be changing the pulleys at all now. If I get 1-2 psi with water injection then that will be a bonus, cooler running in the summer and when towing. The whole project was, in the end, spot on regarding my dreams. The install of the ea81 was only disappointing in respect to the auto zapping 15hp from the rear wheels- now that has not only fixed that it has transformed the trike in every way. And its simple to work on. small airbox, intake on the right hand side the larger one cut down to make way for the roof frame at the time You cans see the airflow would be restricted here. Elfreddo has ridden Tweety. will be interested one day when he has another ride and feel the boost.

Used 3mm HITRILE rubber for all manifold gaskets and eliminated all air leaks. Great stuff resistant to gas. Can now concentrate of cosmetics. Two vW Scat belt guards protect fingers- a legal requirement in Victoria. There are two belts now and too wide for a single guard. 3 wing nuts with welded bolts make detachement easy and quick. Water injection is now being planned. Spinning at only 5500 rpm the supercharger doesnt get very hot. But water will seal it more, add a little more boost, eliminate detonation (although I've eliminated it now altogether but it will allow me to advance the timing) etc

Ok, have almost got it all sorted now. I had serious air leaks between my custom made manifolds. And after much trouble have found that the SC exits are not fully flat...why? Because as standard they dont need to be!! Standard manifolds in Toyota cars where these sC12 and SC14 SC's are fitted appear to have tin like material which would flex with the base. Its about 1mm but enough to cause and issue when using 5 or 8mm plate as a manifold face. I originally used 3mm and that warps when welding takes place. I kept the 3mm manifold face but had it linished and used a far better gasket than paper. I picked up some rubber gasket with a strip of alloy in it. About 2mm thick it is THE stuff to use in this application. A smear of gasket goo and assembly took place. Now I have an idle to die for. A test run ahve me 5psi and good idle. But it now runs rich- back tot he dyno machine. Update to come. The rubber gasket. Superb stuff. The now two peice custom manifold. Top ring is for the blow off valve. Silicone sleeve and clamps compelte the assembly. A top mount seen on the left hand side now braces the top of the SC. Note the tensioner is on the "slack" side of the ribbed belt. I plan to purchase two VW generator mesh shields to make the belts a safe place for fingers. Besides they are law here. A test run and I'm reminded how effective this Supercharger is. It is more noticable at low revs. The throttle is more touchy and the front wheel gives me the sensation of lifting. Then there is a progressive acceleration at full throttle that is so much better than non sC. But ti is the speedo diference that is where the tell tale is. Adn the trike around corners under certain revs seems to sit on its haunches, more on the back wheel as you power on- a sensation that increases my testosterone...lol . Easily reaching 130kph (private property ok police!! if you are reading) before I backed off. Am not interested in what it does top speed. This trike is a cruiser and always will be. Dont want my sunroof to reach New Zealand. There is a slight increase in noise, not loud but a course sound with the added sC spinning away. I'm happy, and happier when the dyno results come out with it jetted correctly this time.

Mounting a Sc is the hard part. This is what I've read on many web sites. It is easier with the trike, more room. But there is a procedure I now acknowledge as an easier method of carrying out the mounting of the unit rather than the ways in which I carried it out. It may or may not be relevant to a Subaru car but you might benefit by this example. My first lesson was that there is no real advantage in making a (permanent) hard manifold mount between the SC and the intake. A 50mm silicone sleeve between the upper and lower mounts is a good idea as it allows for small adjustments with the SC to take place. This is my recommendation. Purchase a 5 ribbed belt 5pr-0965, a common size. These belts go up and down in size by 10mm which is quite a lot so you have to have some accuracy when doing this mounting procedure. Finalise your pulley selection and fit it to the SC. I used the standard clutched ribbed pulley and removed the clutch centre and got my engineer to use 3 bolts to bolt it solid. With the crank standard pully at 150mm it works out at 6-8 psi. I've achieved 5psi as ther eis some loss with volume efficiency and I had air leaks so I might get more boost later. Not that I'm disappointed with over 30% more pwer and torque. I would advise that if you are fitting a SC12 or 14 to your engine then its advisable to fit it as close to the intake as possible. If it is to be located between the alternator (that has the cast iron mount) and the intake hole the first thing to do is to locate the SC into its near exact position with the belt in situ tight as possible but with no adjusting tensioner fitted as yet. Take some time with a flat edge to get the belt lined up. Use whatever means to keep the SC in this position. Then fabricate a single solid mount from the intake to the SC. I would do this with 5mm steel lower mounting plate mounted directly onto the intake. make sure you tap that hole with a 12mm tap and insert a 12mm grub screw into the hole to prevent future problems with radiator fluid leaks. Seek out some 60mm or 50mm steel tube weldable thickness. You will find the Sc outlet is closer to the front of the engine than the intake hole. So your manifold will be on an angle. This is relevant to mention. You'll need a blow off valve. When your engine backfires you need this to operate to prevent breaking stuff. I used a turbo BOV without connecting up the top vacuum hose. Worked a treat a few times when I had tuning issues. You will need to plumb this back to an air intake area. The mount that the BOV comes with is alloy. I got my engineer to turn a steel one up on a lathe. This will need to be fixed to the lower or upper manifold peices after seperation. One issue is where bolts for both ends are located. Use 75mm steel tube like I have and you have plenty of cutting and bending of the tube to ensure access to the bolt heads are gained. Smaller tube like 60mm or even 50mm allows for much more access. Nothing worse than trying to fit a nut to a stud in a crammed area. With that angle of the manifold the rear lower stud on the SC poses the most problems. Larger tube has the welds close to the bolt heads. All sorts of time wasting can be had here hence my suggestion to go smaller tube than 75mm. So you have the SC secure with your manifold and nothing else at the moment and your pulleys are lined up within say 1-2mm. This manifold will later be cut in two peices. Now make up a lower mount under the SC. I used 10mm x 20mm steel flat. There are plenty of mounting points on the ea81. Thread through the SC mounting holes a long bolt 3/8th with nuts between the lugs and one at the end. With the "flat" bolted to the engines manifold and at the front you can weld the last nut on the bolt to the flat. Do the same with a nut up near the bolt head- that is connected to the cast mount for the alternator. I built a small steel frame here for the tensioner. The large bolt can be unscrewed when you want to take the SC off. Make up an overhead mount. This can best be made with 20mm square steel tube running from a mounting hole near the temp sender on the ea81 manifold up to the two top mounts on the SC. I had a nice bend in the tube. Unbolt the new manifold between the SC and the intake. Cut the tube with a 5mm slice out of the centre. At this time it is convenient to use Devcon plastic steel inside the peices to make it smooth especially in nooks and crannies where fuel can pool or minimalise friction. It is expensive but it is permanent and proven for use inside manifolds. place clamps on and the silicone sleeve. The sleeve needs to be short enough to slip down covering the lower mount. Finalise the assembly. You will notice the SC is on an angle. It cant be mounted vertical because the alternator wont allow it. So any side draft carbie has to have a mount that allows that carbie to be flat. This is where you need a carbie manifold that allows for that angle. A cut down one, a newly fabricated one of as I ended up doning - a cut down half section of a lynx twin carb manifold. Make sure you get the vacuum holes tapped. Make up a adapater plate to the SC 5mm or more thick. WARNING!! These superchargers have standard mounting studs for each manifold. The holes for these studs go right through to the teflon coated lobes. You must be careful if replacing these studs with bolts or if the studs screw further in than they are suppose to. The screw ends can easily hit the lobes and cause damage. It is said the teflon coating isnt that critical eg scratches and scores wont necessarily cause performance issues. But its nice to avoid it. I had a few stripped threads here. I drilled them out and tapped them. To do this make sure you have an oily rag inside the Sc to catch filings. Take care, the lobes can squash fingers and edges can cut them too as tolerances are fine and edges sharp. You now can mount your carbie. I used a 40dhla Dell'orto. Seems an ok choice. SU's are a good choice too apparently. Design your airbox, cold air intake advised. You'll need a new throttle linkage. I sought out a EA Ford Falcon tensioner smooth pulley. This should be mounted to the "slack side" of the belt. eg opposite to the pulling side from the crank to the SC pulley - being the left side nearest the dizzy. Your belt at this time should be snug enough to jsut get it off the pulley if required. Then mount the tensioner so its pulley it all the way out. I say this because it isnt apparent that even though the belt is snug it will stretch somewhat when under tension. Tension it up quite tightly. When you first start your engine keep a close eye on the belt. If there is any minor fraying on one side or it starts to mount the ends you can ruin a belt quickly at 40 bucks a pop. Make sure the SC has its 3 small tubes in place to allow for air pressure equalisation between the chambers, oil is replaced preferably with SC oil. I used GMH oil and you'll need two 95mm bottles at $49 each. Some say transmission oil is ok as its only gears to lubricate but I like peace of mind. Prior to putting in the oil I took off that back plate, cleaned it all inside and a little silicone on the case join. The rubber "O" ring is about 20 years old or more so a little help to keep the seal wont hurt. Install a boost guage. I chose a digital one form ebay for $18. Nice blue digits! TUNE. Bear in mind the issues I had with air leaks. If your manifolds leak air then your jetting when tuning will end up rich and waste a dyno. So the real benefit with the above procedure is fitting the one peice manifold between the SC and the intake with the SC in the location it will end up with the pulley's lined up. Later that manifold will be cut in two to allow for a sleeve to join them. If I had known this before I started I would have save many days and a lot of work.

Its taken a while but am ready to install the new improved manifold each side of the SC12. This is a pic of the original set up. You can see the grey airbox and how thin it had to be due to the roof frame coming very close to it as the roof was tilted back. The black manifold on the left mounts above the intake. It had an adapter/spacer alloy made by redline under it that had very littel meat to create a good seal- hence a leak. This is the new set up. I used the spare lynx manifold half to get it shortened.. This allows for the new airbox. And I'll have one centimetres spare. The new manifold to the intake is made out of 4x2" steel tube for the top onto 75mm steel tube under to to the intake the latter being halved for the silicone tube. Look close enough you might see the Devcon plastic steel lining insdie the lower mount to allow for smoothness for the fuel mix. Good stuff but not cheap. Couple a days and she'll be running again hoping with a nice idle with no leaks.