tweety

thanks Gloyale. I think you are correct on all fronts. I have now 2 spare MAF electronic units and two housings. I did squeeze the larger unit onto the rubber neck intake and it ran crap. One day I'll unscrew it and try it on a standard housing. But my suspicion is that it wont go well. until I', desperate I'll let it gather dust. Thankyou Rockauto- for selling me the wrong part.

tried the larger ROCKAUTO MAF and the engine didnt liek it at all. put the old one back in. I will never buy ROCKAUTO parts again. They sell you the wrong parts.

Well again a quick reply considering we are on the other side of the globe. Here is a response from Rockauto. I mentioned I have outlined my ordeal on USMB. "Thanks for your response. I've reviewed that forum and we still not accept your return. RockAuto offers a 30-day return window for all parts, as long as they have not been installed and are in the original packaging. Since your order is more than two months outside of the return window, we will not be able to accept your return. We do value your business and thank you for shopping with RockAuto! Thank you, Will RockAuto Customer Service" So, thanks to Rockauto guys, I have a MAF for sale. Same part number as an original Subaru EA82 SPFI MAF but doesnt fit my SPFI system of 1989 vintage as advertised by them on their own web site. And to top it off I dont know what this MAF comes off, what it fits. Perhaps I can be clever- I can advertise the part to fit an EA82 as it has the same part number and sell it for the same huge amount I paid for it to a guy in North America. I'll have a 30 day money return guarantee but by the time it hits your shores, you open it up (so its no longer in the original packaging as required) and discuss the issue time will be up. Nah...could never do it.....I could never be such an arsehole....

This is getting interesting. Rockauto have been very quick to reply to me which is great. However they have concluded their investigation into this matter with the result that has diappointed me. They concluded that I was indeed sent the wrong part with identical part numbers. "I have looked into this further. The part that was ordered would not fit on a 1989 Loyale, so that is likely the reason the two parts are different. Looking at the images and the cross reference number on the part, they match what Standard Motor Products have as well. I apologize that the part was not what was needed, but it does appear that the correct part was sent. " It was great to get an apology. However in another breath "Regarding a return on the part, please be advised that RockAuto offers a 30-day return window for all parts, as long as they have not been installed and are in the original packaging. Since your order is 3 months old, we will not be able to accept your return. We do value your business and thank you for shopping with RockAuto!" So what are my options? I have a part that I really dont know conclusively what make and model it fits and likely when I do find out it is likely it wont be a model in Australia. This item was a huge $400 AUS to buy, a large amount for a non working guy. I did explain to Rockauto in previous correspondence that some parts of my SPFI system had been in transit to USA so I could not compare their part to the original. I simply thought the gauze was there as it was remanufactured. I have sent a reply to Rockauto asking for them to reconsider their 30 day policy on this matter. We wait and see.

Thanks Gloyale. emailed rockauto. they want VIN number, part numbers etc....cant see why they cant get that off their order on their computer. anyway replied and wait and see. All this info of course will end up on their desk if not successful. no names of course...

thanks guys for your imput. It was ordered from Rockauto. will return it. no reflection on them. it was quick service. thanks again. Top site this. Top blokes.

Hi guys. from Oz. On my EA81 SPFI (1989) conversion I had a MAF that read low on one reading. So I ordered one from the states that was cheap. Fitted it and had more mid range power. See below. The old one that read low is on the right. The one I replaced it with is identical and on the engine now. The one on the left is another one that I ordered which was more expensive. It has the same part number being 22680 AA100 AFH38-01 THEN A SERIAL NUMBER LIKE 8217 From then on they are different. Firstly there is a number 3 inside a small cavity near the plug see below and a letter "B" on the case. On the alloy housing there is marked M& whereas the smaller ones are marked M2 The opening of the larger one is huge about 10mm diameter wider and has a wire mesh filter at the filter end. I was wondering what the larger one is off and if I could use it in my EA81. I would need to modify the air intake to take the larger mount but that is easy. What are your thoughts?

thanks RUPARTS. tried to clean the contact but no change. will take up Naru's offer. thanks again. this is a great site here. Tony

Need a new Throttle position sensor as listed in a previous thread. For a loyale 1985-1994. For my ea81 SPFI conversion Do the web surfing thing to find several listed from suppliers. However each time I go into the site it is stated "out of stock". Obviously they have had stock in the past and now no longer available. Finally I found a supplier (Pacific Auto Parts) that states it is in stock. Send money via Paypal from Oz. Get several emails from them trying to sell other items. Then an email form them stating it has been shipped. Then an email stating refund sent as it is "out of stock". This is the new computer age era that manages to tear ones hair out. In my view it is unacceptable, poor service. So if anyone can go out of their way to let me know of a generic brand of TPS that will fit let me know please at eaglefree@bigpond.com I would appreciate it. I am cautious of using a generic brand TPS like a holley because my idle sensor housing is turned the other way and likely the new TPS is longer than the original and will not fit. Regards Tony

Hi guys. Have converted my Ea81 on my trike to SPFI a system from your neck of the woods as it didnt come out here in SPFI. Anyway have tested and found that the TPS is faulty. Symptoms were loss of power especially up hill, wanted to cut out when slowing down and slow top speed. Want to renew this item. marked Hitachi Sera484-2. Can I use a universal one? has anyone used a universal type? If so what type? There are several in Oz I could try to match up. Also trying to keep costs down. Thanks

just EJ it. ....sorry, a thread about ea81's isnt complete without that statement even though I dont agree with it...lol

A few days off and I'm feeling like doing a bit on the trike. Made up this board. Fitted female connectors to the injector, MAF and Throttle sensor. Then 5 feet of wiring to this board. So trike sensors can be monitored as we ride it. Note female connectors. This resister was in place on the kit as part of the TB harness. This plug was vacant and is the purge solonoid connector. so a resister has now been installed on that. Code 35 now gone (purge). Code 31 (throttle sensor) still going but havent tried to cancel code yet.

Making progress with some issues with my conversion SPFI to ea81. I have a code 35. Purge control solonoid. The SPFI kit had two resisters. One resister was connected to the EGR solonoid Valve connector- two wires- blue/red stripe and Black with white stripe. The second resister 67 ohms, wasnt connected. There is a connector on the harness with two wires- green/blue stripe and black/white stripe. The green/blue stripe wire corresponds to number 5 on the middle sized ECU connector so it confirms its the Purge solonoid valve connector. The spare resister connector doesnt fit the purge connector. I assume I can cut off the resister connecotr and fit two spade terminals to fit into the purge connector? Then that I also assume will fix the eCU code and fix the issue. Can anyone confirm this?

10W-40 synthetic blend. Blend is good.

very interesting. thanks. will bare that in mind.

mmm, I recall there was one resistor added near the bottom of the throttle body. Will check that cause I think there were two wires that were left free. Ok Jono- you have given me some checking to do. will be a while before I get around to it and report back. me think Naru, some crc in all the connections is the way.

thanks Dean? makes sense now. hope you are well.

Plenty of questions for this ea81 conversion in Oz. I noticed in the list of trouble codes that for example code 31 on 1984-1986 is speed sensor or circuit. on the 1987 model its TPS or circuit. Also code 35 on the 1984-1986 is AFM and Canister purge on 1987 Havent got a clue what year mine is and ahve the codes 31 and 35 at the moment since adjusting my TPS. Also ahve possible MAF issues and waiting for a replacement. Can anyone tell me how to detemrine the year of my system?

Ok NARU. you ar e great help. I noticed that when the TPS is adjusted I can get the 5000 ohms down to 3700 what it should be on open full throttle. Then when I checked B and C it was 300 ohms. So all good there. B and C changes continuously as you said up throttle and own. D has 5 volts- all good there. B is not grounded. I used the multi meter on the manifold and on B and it has no resistance????? Also, the ECU now has codes 31 and 35. Would the codes come about because the TPS has now been tampered with?? Why wouldnt B be grounded? Could it be that B not being grounded could be a wiring issue and hence the codes? I see code 35 is canister purge- I dont have any anti pollution equipment at all on my EA81. Being a trike I dont need it her ein my state in Oz.

Ok, got a few issues including the engine not starting now but more on that later. Short update- have ordered another 2 MAF's from the states to Oz. It appears though that it could be operating ok. The SPFI TPS test has been completed. I'll try to simplify this as best I can. There is a problem. According to the detailed test this was done as per proceedure. Step1/ Checking continuity between terminals A and B action- checked and ok. Step2/ Check for continuity after inserting a thickness gauge between the stopper screw and stopper. Using an ohmmeter, check that continuity exists between terminals A and B, when the throttle is fully closed, and that no continuity exists when the throttle is fully opened. action- checked and ok Step3/ Insert a feeler gauge (thickness gauge) of 0.0122 in. (0.31mm) between the stopper screw on the throttle chamber and the stopper (this corresponds to the throttle opening of 1.0 degree). Ensure that continuity exists between terminals A and B. Insert a feeler gauge (thickness gauge) of 0.0311 in. (0.79mm) between the stopper screw on the throttle chamber and the stopper (this corresponds to a throttle opening of 2.5 degrees). Ensure that continuity exists between terminals A and B. result- .31mm feeler ok, .79 feeler not. Adjustment requiredas per instructions which are " If above specifications are not as specified, loosen the throttle sensor attaching screws, then turn the throttle sensor body until the correct adjustment is obtained." Step4/ "Throttle Opening Signal" Check continuity between terminals B and D, then terminals B and C Using an ohmmeter, measure resistance between terminals B and D, then between B and C (changes with the opening of the throttle valve). The ohmmeter should read 3.5-6.5 kilo-ohms between terminals B and D. Result- B and D is 4.7 ohms- ok. Result- B and C is 0.5 ohms throttle closed- ok (less than 1.0). Throttle fully opened - 4.9-5.1 ohms....far in excess of 2.4 ohms. Now interesting enough the reading of 2.4 ohms (its suppose to vary with increase and decrease of throttle) occurs at half throttle right where the dead spot begins. I assume this sensor is RS! The battery has been on trickle charge. Took it for a test run. The engine certainly started well and idle was nice and not as high when first started as it was previously- good. Got it home and revved it and it misses beyond half throttle!!! bogs down, loses revs. Then the starter motor strained to turn the engine over. Connect the charger to the battery and it indicates fully charged. Turn ignition on and eCU connectors and find ECU code is 3 long flashes in addition to the 5 quick flashes it normally has for model designation. Check the trouble shooting manual and cant find 30 in the codes but 31 is throttle sensor. So has adjusting it to achieve the second feeler guage setting upset the sensor for higher revving? Gee....I'm at a loss. opinions?

Can we have anyone with some guru powers of knowledge to answer the above questions? please?

I had a bad burn for opening a cap when I knew I had overheating issues. I had had some alcohol earlier and although not drunk wasnt 100%. Suffered 2nd degree burn to my chest. The coolant shot up so high it hit the roof of the garage I was about to refuel at.

ok, here is Greg's post today on Ausubaru forom. hope this can shed some light to your guys and we can get some opinions *************** It was a nice ride, thank you Tony for putting on the great weather. Tweety is lacking grunt, sort of like when you go up a hill in top gear, you reach a point where no matter how much further you press the accelerator, it makes no difference. Why?? Some readings. At idle the MAF is at about 0.7v, duty cycle 6%. When accelerating hard through 1st/2nd, till the auto upshifts @4500rpm (guessed), the MAF slowly climbs to 3.4v and the duty cycle slowly climbs to 46%. The rate of increase is in sync with the RPM increase. In top gear, past the kickdown point, at full throttle the MAF is 2.7v and the duty cycle is 36%, thats where they stay, on a constant incline. As the accelerator is released, the MAF and duty stay very close to 2.7/36, until the butterfly starts to reduce the required air and Tweety slows, the MAF/duty drop in sync with the rpm. The motor has no signs of pinging, when like this. Disconnecting the MAF, increases the duty cycle by about 2%, through the whole rev range, Tweety still runs fine without it, just a bit richer. This had no effect on full throttle performance in top gear. The temp sensor measured approx where it should be. From the limited information available, it seems the MAF voltage is lower than what it should be. Is it the MAF, or is it the motor is worn and cannot get the higher air flow ?? Tony equiped with a duty cycle meter and a new MAF will answer some more questions, soon.

My friend Greg attended today armed with two multi meters and some sound knowledge. We hooked up one meter to the injector and the second to the MAF and went for several rides. We found that the MAF will only read 3.4 volts maximum. This is when the engine is revving out towards maximum revs in first and second on the auto trans which it will do happily. Should the MAF run to 5 volts when revved? In top gear of the VW auto the trike will only go to 65mph max. There is a huge dead spot with the throttle. The coolant temp sensor measures ok at 600ohms hot. The injector, recently cleaned, appears to run very well. At this point Greg's opinion is that all is running as it should with the SPFI system except the low voltage on the MAF. Because this system was not available in Oz there are question marks on a few other things though- 1/ The camshaft is believed to be original. This engine has done around 250,000 mls but was reconditioned about 50,000 mls ago with hone, new rings etc. If the cam wasnt touched there could and most likely is a lot of wear on the lobes that could contribute to the poor power output. Lower lobes due to wear would reduce the valve opening thereby having a negative effect on the performance. 2/ We have different fuel specs here. I run 95RON unleaded. 91 makes the engine perform worse and a 98 is available but it makes the engine run more course. Greg mentioned that if I was to get another engine rebuilt that fuel differences between here and US fuels might mean that it could be wrong to seek the 9.5:1 compression ratio the original SPFI engine had. Some opinions on this please. 3/ We have eliminated fuel feed as an issue. The pump has 3 bar - 42psi. 4/ Disconnecting the MAF made no difference to the performance except it did indicate it was running a bit richer. I will start another thread asking for voltage readings on SPFI engines. Cant seem to find them anywhere. Regards Tony

My MAF is shipped from rockauto together with a new coolant temperature sender. also purchased another one- a used one.