tweety

I'd do some research on the systems that came out standard in some cars with blow thru systems and copy them. my 2c. A blow off valve is a good idea. Good ones cost a lot but are worth it. Backfire and its piece of mind

I'm a little confused. Lets take the sC12 or SC14 as examples in this case. Both SC's came with clutched ribbed pulley. This enabled the SC to be on or off with a switch from the dashboard. Here in Oz it was in the Toyota MR2 sports car. So TallonX if you are going blow thru you dont need a bypass system to take away the SC from the system if not needed. You will likely need a flap to allow for a filter when the SC is off. I'm not used to this system. I did the easy way- Suck thru...and I wouldnt recommend it due to its tuning issues and questions on longitivity. This vid is of the trike with the ea81.

Having recently taken out my lifters they are definitely the solid one bottom of pic.

You are referring to turbo arent you djellum? lower compression not required for a charger

my supercharged ea81 link. Ausubaru. if you google tweety ea81 sc12. you will have heaps of info. http://www.ausubaru.com/forum/showthread.php?t=23606 Also here is a guy in Oz that did the same on a VW beetle which was my inspiration. This write up is really interesting. What hedoesnt indicate is how uneconomical the blow thru system can be (as he only had the system on for half a tank) but I soon found out lol http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=65678 Anything to do with blowing your engine with a sc12 or sc14 is in those two threads. any questions I'm glad to answer. One thing I want to mention is that if you use a sc12 or sc14 utilise the original tin manifolds if possible. The mounting screws on the SC are not strong nor large and bolting a plate onto it poses problems especially when you realise the holes go straight through to the spinning and delicate lobes. Easy to scratch them.

posted reply to wrong thread. oops

We havent mentioned cost.? It's becoming increasingly cheaper to J a car now. Half cuts allow good opportunity to get all the parts required. But it would still cost a fair bit. Adapter plate in Oz is $600. And all the bits. Can someone give us an accurate cost they had to EJ their car? The alternative is to keep the EA. Many doing this are happy to receive the basic recommendations like- weber carb, deck the heads etc. When it comes to reconditioning the whole engine with new pistons, cam grind etc etc cost rises considerably and the EJ swap is gaining attraction. Bolt on power is what is needed for the EA owner. Covered in a previous thread a modern compact supercharger like a sprintex could be the answer. I mean the sprintex is even made for Harley V-rods! so they are light and small. We need a company that will recognise that kits are needed as an alternative to the EJ way. Of cause some the other upgrades like brakes need to be looked at. But you'd be keeping the original engine and that has positives.

Since the EJ series of engines came out in our Subaru's there has been a stream of owners of older models replacing the old school and far less efficient EA engine in their cars. Almost every thread on the EA engine where an owner wants to get a little more out of the EA engine there will be the post "just EJ it". Not all EA owners want to go EJ. Why not? I think I have some answers to it. 1/ Modifying a car with a larger engine or an engine than what the car came out with (even as an option) has in some places eg Australia, requirements like an engineers report. For those not accustomed to this it is a pain in the butt. It costs a lot of money for an engineer to crawl all over your car making sure the engine mounts are strong enough, chassis can take the power etc. 2/ You usually cant just "throw another heavier and larger engine into another car" if you want to do it right. Take the English Ford Escort. It originally came out with an 1100cc engine. Then through its development it have many models right up to the Lotus powered twin cam model (I had 2) where it had beefed up brakes, diff, steering, larger wheels radiator and suspension and body stiffening. That's because the manufacturer didnt just throw the Lotus motor in the car. It transformed the car to take the engine in ALL areas. With the Brat for example I've read how you have to 'modify' the chassis rails to fit the EJ engine. Does this weaken the car? There would likely be another 50 kgms or 100lbs extra weight on the front end with the EJ engine. What about bigger radiator? thermo fans ECU, wiring etc.? It all adds up. So to do all this right you should beef up the suspension to cater for the extra weight. I once beefed up a rear suspension of a Valiant and the new harder shockers nearly punched a hole through the floor. So here starts the 'snowball effect'. You should then ad plates between the top of the shockers to the inner guard where they mount. Extra front weight should also call for wider wheels. Common EJ engines that are put in Brats/Brumby's are now reaching 20 or more years old. So you do an engine swap with an engine that could be towards the end of its life....out it comes again. More work. My point is this. Not everyone wants to "just EJ it" for the above reasons. But there are more reasons. Many ute owners are quite happy to waddle along in their underpowered eA engine and when the opportunity arises make some basic modifications to get a few more horses out of it. Some dont want wider wheels. Somejust want it as a farm machine like it has served them for the last 30 years. Last but not least- some like to do the valve clearances in 10 minutes, not fiddle with timing chains belts and a fuel injection system that turns you Mr Hyde into a Subaru Jeckyl. Some like to look into an engine bay and actually see the engine. So whenever we get a "just EJ it" guy here you, the one faithful to the old eA engine can just point him to this rant rather than explain it all. I've read a lot of pro's for EJ'ing a car but not many con's. Perhaps when the EJ powered Brat's chassis starts to crack and needs welding my point will be proven.

And the silicone breasts Rustybrat? lol cool see my new thread

Rustybrat, no disrespect intended but please re-read the OP first post. No mention of EJ swap. Total dislike for timing belts and chains etc etc. Seems some of us EA lovers are always going to have to prepare ourselves for the "Go EJ" answer to everything. If an EJ swap was so good, so easy and so quick why do any of us still run EA engines? Because we like em. Bit like silicone filled busts......but that's another story

Porsche is the only manufacturer IMO that got the handling right for a rear engined car. Even then the early 911's could be a death trap if you backed off half way through a corner instead of pedal to the metal. The car would head off in a direction you didnt expect it to go. Porsche owners knew this thankfully. VW beetles were designed to take corners at a ridiculously low speed. Remember they were designed in the 1930's with an engine that couldnt pull the skin off a custard tart. So modify an engine with or without turbo'es and leaving the suspension stock is asking for trouble. It's because every corner would require a throttle input not exceeding the cars ability to take the corner without risk. Not easily done. What about extra straight line speed and an animal appears? Extra good handling is a must. And thats not mentioning if a turbo cuts in half way around a corner. This is all I can think of to answer your query Subaruist.

That big lump of a supercharger is heavy, ancient (1989) and huge. Most modern superchargers are about the size of half a shoe box or smaller. And you can mount it where ever you like. You could mount it at the rear of the engine off an extension shaft from the front. Or mount it to take the place of AC compressor. Mounting of a modern supercharger is the easy bit- being so small. Getting the manifolds air tight and carbie jetting is the challenge. My posts are more to highlight to Subaru owners wanting to soop up their engines that there is an alternative to turboes that often have lag and need exhaust connection. Along with SC's having instant power down low. And to put it out there to some innovative engineer that a bolt on powerplant for a EA81/82 could be made with a compact SC. There are thousands of EA owners that would consider buying a kit to increase output by 30% with say 1-2 days installation time. Even the light aircraft industry.

Yes, its been mentioned.... the easy throw on supercharger is the suck thru meaning air filter, carbie supercharger and manifold. Fuel and air mixing thru the SC isnt what it is designed for. So we are really only interested in these pages on doing it right and maybe someone will make a bolt on kit with a compact SC compressing air thru a sealed carbie into the engine. Think of how many would sell? Beats looking for dual carbies, turboes and the like. Modern SC's would likely be installed with no bonnet bulge unlike the SC12 I had that would stick up inches above it. Dusty off road conditions would be like any other assembly- good sealing with good gaskets and proper air filter. What is amusing is that the original EA81 manifold is sufficient. Internals must be good but I didnt get into things like benefits of higher compression, port polishing etc. Water injection was tried and came on at 2psi but it didnt change the poor economy I dreamed of. So in my case with an old designed lobed supercharger with fuel and air mix and no other engine changes it produced 5psi to give the extra power and torque as on the graphs. Extra boost like 8psi - you just change one of the pulleys. More than 8 psi and engine internals need strengthening. Imagine is some professional used a modern twin screw SC and adapters to suit as a kit? A few more pics. You'll notice the 'V' shaped manifold that goes between the carbie and the SC. its actually one half of a twin carb manifold from a Datsun 1600 think a lynx manifold. you can see the custom home made manifold (with blow off valve for backfires) between the SC and the stock manifold. How would such things handle extreme long-term off-roading on dusty roads ? A supercharger is just an air blower. An oldie should have few scratches on the rotating lobes. You engine is likely to fail before the SC fails especially a new SC.

I too share the dislike for belts and chains for what appears to be little gain and more complexity. Just my opinion. However, in terms of turbo, dual turbo and other possibles by Subaruist I'm at a loss as to why supercharging is not even thought about where a boost (sic) of power and torque is desired. I'm not suggesting I'm an expert in this modification at all but I have installed a homemade crude supercharger set up on the stock ea81 and apart from some areas of dissatisfaction (see below) the concept doesnt seem to have been explored to its full potential. Briefly- the system I used was an ancient Toyota SC12 with a side draft Dellorto carbie, custom made manifolds each side of the SC and apart from experimenting with water injection there was no other mod done. Regardless of this (at a modest 5 psi boost) I achieved 30-33% increase in torque and power respectively. see http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/145588-ea81-engine/ Nowadays there are superchargers that are more compact, lighter, far more efficient than ever before. For example Sprintex make twin screw superchargers for mini's and Harley's V-rod see http://www.sprintex.com.au/ My frustration with my set up came from lack of knowledge and ability to get the set up running economically. Correct jetting was found from dynoing but at some revs the jetting was woeful. Fuel injection might have been a solution. It needed professional input. At any rate we know supercharging achieves its power from idle through the rev range. I can vouch for the power increase. My trike with a VW auto and a SC Ea81 lifted the front wheel with ease. It was proof enough. Hence my question? Why isnt supercharging, set up correctly, with a modern supercharger considered in the context of bolt on power increase?

I'm surprised no one said "just EJ it" lol

If the tank was empty you could have stirred up some rubbish in it when your put gas in it. This could have blocked the filter or passed through the filter to the carbie. Dee2 had a good suggestion. Change the filter see how that goes. Then go from there. Sound like fuel to me. Just had another look at your video. Because it idles well sometimes I dont think its the needle and seat as I suggested. Try everything prior to the carbie. Filter then test, pump next. Air leaks in manifold? Check vacuum hoses. If there is a perished hose with a small hole it will run fine at higher revs. When going down to idle when cold the hole might be closed and when the engine is hot it could open up causing the stall. Like trying to guess if a babe digs you!

Ferox took the words out of my mouth. What sort of fuel pump? Sounds like the fuel bowl is emptying then it's ok after a short time as its being filled again. Needle and seat could be suspect...sticking?

You could supercharge it. All parts are bolt on with some welding here and there. There are pro's and cons. Two types of SC. Blow thru and suck thru. Blow through means air only passes through the supercharger, the common manner that supercharged cars exit the assembly line. Suck through is an easier method with air and gas passing through the SC. Hence with suck thru the sequence is carbie, SC then manifold whereas flow thru is SC, carbie then manifold. Subsequently the latter needs its carbie to be sealed to stop air escaping. Manifolds before and after the SC need to be made. Lets stick to suck thru...a method I've tried on my EA81 powered trike. The good- an increase of around 33% in power output for 74hp to over 100. Torque increase up by around 30%. No lag like with turboes- power is from idle. (tune graphs are of the first tune....it had 3 dyno tunes in total but you'll get the picture) The bad- economy. Expect a drop of around 15-20% after a proper tune. You need to ensure your engine is in top condition. I geared my supercharger to make 4psi and achieved the above figures on a stock engine (dyno graphs below) and 8psi is ok to but any more and other issues come into the mix because of the stresses involved. Blow by increases. A catch can is a must in most cases. I tried water injection to improve economy but with 4psi it was a waste of money. So what is needed? A dellorto or weber carbie was easiest to use for my project but it ends up wide. The carbie should be angled a little towards the SC. A supercharger. The most common used is the Toyota units either SC12 or SC14 of the 1980's, the 14 just being longer with more output. This unit comes with a 5 riubbed pulley so you need to attach another one on your crank pulley. A third pulley needs to be adjustable to allow the belt to be really tight. The belt needs to be lined up correctly. The original SC pulley has a clutch as OE. However on a suck thru set up this is not possible. Hence that clutch needs to be secured so it doesnt turn. The custom housing between the SC and EA81 manifold has to have a blow off valve. This expensive piece is necessary for backfires, to stop the force going thru the SC and causing damage. It proved its worth. A bonnet bulge might be needed. Mandatory is to not have air leaks. Dyno tune is a must. It is difficult to get the right jets to suit all rev ranges.

Larger tires increase your speed for the same revs. You can get onto a tire calculator and compare tires, circumference, diameter, etc. see http://tire-size-conversion.com/tire-size-calculator/ you'll see on the right hand side of the site different speeds for given tires. One trap here apart from guard clearances is that hills will cause the car to drop back speed sooner. Just like marriage.....lust comes at a cost...

APINTONUT. The OP didnt mention he wanted to move to an EJ of any sort. IDASHO has a good list there. So your 4th speed is an overdrive taller than the 5 speed. If you feel its revving too high go for a larger tire circumference. I had the same issue with an old English Ford Zephyr. It had a 4 speed and I upgraded to 5 speed. Had I known the issues and trouble I would have lowered my freeway speed from 65mph to 55 mph instead. Sometimes the simple answers are the best.

Would like to hear others reply to this one. My inexperienced view is that as its on the outside some Devcon would suffice (Plastic welder adhesive). Saving that decking.

OP posted 6 months ago but I'll reply anyway. My Subaru powered trike has a VW auto. But the speedo pick up is mounted above the inner CV on the axle casing. The Panther speedo (and tacho) are adjustable. Might pay you to call Panther trikes in Gosford. Josef might be able to assist.

With the coolant outlet on the thermostat housing going to the top of the block, you can use a piece of copper tube and two small lengths of hose to go around the dizzy. Worked for me even with the SPFI dizzy that was much larger than the stock one. Also you can pull up the dizzy and turn the shaft a cog or two and this will allow you extra space for timing. Flat spot? tried advancing to say 10 degrees? was the weber new? I wonder if the second throat is coming in at the right moment? Running well at other revs means likely leads and plugs etc are ok. By the way, when I recently purchased my 38/38 synchronic weber for my EA81 I also got a filter pod for remote cold intake. Worth considering as per the noise. It fits a 32/36 also. you can just see the copper tube in this pic. stock manifold at the rear, SPFI manifold at the front with the copper tube in place.

I'm an older bloke 58yo and never seen the results of port and polishing. thanks for the thread. its making sense.