tweety

the VW type 3 transmission has a vacuum governor at the bottom passenger side rear where the vac hose goes into. Simply take the vac hose off and you can see a really small spade screw inside the governor. If you want the trans to shift at higher speed unscrew if you want it to select the gears at lower speed...screw it in. Do it half a turn at a time. Tony

I had a total rebuild recently. 1 mm bigger pistons, spfi manifold ( you need an angled adapter made up) 32/36 carb will soon be rejetted to something like primary main 140, idle 55,air 165....sec main 150,idle 55,air 175. As the spfi is a lot larger. Waiting for jets in the mail. Cam is 15/55 but that for high torque at lower revs good for auto trans.13 d@ btdc. Is already running better than the 38/38 l had on it even dynoed it didn't run as good as the 32/36

The VW full automatic came out in the type 3 and type 4. There is a difference in that the type 4 diff housing had mounts high up on each side of the differential housing in addition to other mounts. I found that out the hard way. Thought I had a type 3 transaxle and went to install a spare one and - no upper mounts. Both these auto transmissions are the same however - the type 3 auto trans. The type 3 transaxle has (to my knowledge) a 3.67:1 differential ratio. The type 4 has 3.9:1 ratio. Not much difference in my opinion. My trike has 15 inch rear wheels. They have 295/50R15 tires. The revs at 60mph (102kph) is like yours Montermahan is around 3100-3200. There was no 4 speed ever made and no possibility to lower the rev except by either one of 3 means. 1/ Take your diff to an expert to get them to change the gearing. An expensive exercise. If you did this and ended up with say 2600rpm @60mph then you'd need to boost engine output or it will die approaching a hill and you'd be revving it high in 2nd gear. Your engine the ea82 like my ea81 isn't easy to do this with. 2/ Change the rear tires to a larger circumference/diameter. You can (if you have 15" wheels") go to a 275/60R15 tire. This will lower your revs at 60mph about 5% 160rpm. It will also give you slightly higher mph in the other two gears. Being a light vehicle your engine will enjoy this and not die on hills. You could also seek wheels like 18" diameter and larger tires than the 275 tire to get even lower revs. So I'd factor this in to get your rev down to say 2900 rpm. Use a tire calculator. Google tire calculator. You'll be looking for 10% more in circumference. eg say you had 295/50R15 tires and changed to 265/70R15 tires. You'd get 11% larger in circumference and drop your revs down that much. You might need to toy with this concept as its the easiest way to get to your objective. Tire sizes might not be available too that you want. eg 275/50R18 (if you change your wheels) will drop revs @ 60mph by 8% also ideal. This also means that your 1st gear on your auto that runs out of breath at 25mph will run out of breath now at 28mph and 2nd from say 62mph will go to 67mph and so on. This sort of playing around with larger tire and wheel sizes would not be as ideal for VW cars and vans of their day due to the heavier weights. 3/ Change transmissions to a manual and seek highway gearing common in trikes. 4/ Cruise at a slower speed. The VW 3 speed auto is a good cruising transmission without the complexity of the overdrive transmissions. They are robust able to take small V8 or V6 engine torques. They will last providing you change the seal between the trans and the diff every 7 years or 60,000 miles. Or if it fails your trans will die!!. So pull it out and put a gasket/seal kit in it. I've learned to live with it. I now use ear plugs if on a long drive. Placing more mufflers on the ea series engines as we know will only make you lose power. But your muffler system should have a crossover exhaust pipe to each exhaust side. Hope that helps. Larger wheel and tire combination is the easiest answer.

As above. I've done a lot of reading about this topic recently. Seems to me NOT to go below 0.7 ohms on the primary resistance. I have the distributer with the electronic module and it does not have a ballast resister. Less than 0.7 ohms and you risk burning out the module or it will at least wear out quicker.

Yep, I'll let you all know in a couple of weeks.

That's one of the better videos Jeszek. Still haven't worked out how to paste web sites and photos on this site yet. Jono, no need to driven the car just idle up to 2000 rpm. My quest is to run it to past when the 32/36 secondary throat opens so I can jet ideally. This would make the tool (less than $100) great value. But I'm unsure if the system can withstand those revs. It isn't the same plug as the other 3 so it might not be suitable. Once its jetted right, the tool would only be used ever tune up and take a mere 5 minutes to adjust the mixture without guesswork.

Check for vacuum leaks. 4 bolts only holding the carb on, worth taking the carb off and its bottom mount to see if there are leaks. One hour job. Then other vacuum connections and if all that fails to locate it (try to run the engine) then manifold to head gasket check. Failing that try to rev the engine and look down the carbie throat to see the fuel squirting down. If its dribbling then take jets out and blow air thru them. try again. Just my ideas. good luck

Thankyou turbosuperbrat. Although this is way over my head and unlikely I'll go down that path this information is just what this thread is about.

thanks ihscout, I've seen the youtube videos and they seem simple enough in basic tunes. But finding the a/f ideal mixture isnt that hard. I'm personally more interested in finding the correct jetting using this tool. I've got a 32/36 that has come off a ea82 so its jetting accordingly. But I have a spfi manifold and now 9.5:1 CR. So these things might allow a larger secondary jet.....how large? This tool when the engine is revved say after the secondary has opened say 3500 rpm would show a color that would lead me to the right size jet. But then I read this tool is only good for 2000 rpm?

Anybody here used one? For tuning? Is it good to use for jet selection as well? For those not aware of the unit, the package comes with a spark plug with glass see through section. The color from the glass while engine is running if yellow, is running rich and you adjust your mixture until it turns to light blue which is a good air/fuel mix with more power and no flat spots. Seems good value at under $100

I'm aware the SPFI manifold is 6mm more diameter than the stick ea81. The ea82 is likely a little less diameter than the SPFI but I've never measured the ea82 manifold so am unsure. Having said that, manifolds are a strange beast. Larger might not be better for power. all to do with turbulence I think. But I'd suggest some common sense here. The ea81 stock manifold was designed for the Hitachi carb. The ea82 was the same but a larger manifold it was. Then the SPFI manifold suitable for the throttle body. I cant see why there wouldn't be some small gains from placing the weber 32/36 on a ea82 or SPFI manifold considering it is a slightly larger carbie than the hitachi anyway.

Thanks Bratman2. We have 91, 95 and 98 but I'm aware those figure don't reflect US figures. Some stations have ethanol but it isn't widely used so hit and miss affair. My trike exhaust has two pipes from heads 300mm long where there is a cross over pipe to the other exhaust. Then both continue on to a good quiet muffler each side. Then 4 feet later they go straight out two pipes each side. I did have motorcycle baffles in each of the 4 tips but did away with those as I think they were too restrictive. I run a 82 degree C thermo = 180 degree F suits me as the thermo fan switch comes on at 88C which is only in really hot weather in traffic only. Ideal I'll add these ideas to my list above. thanx

Some ideas I've read about, added to what we already know to improve your ea81/2 output- Raise CR to over 9.2:1 Larger valve heads Camshaft grind Twin carbs using Ram performance flanges seen on their web site (under parts) 8mm leads Engine balance Increase timing Supercharger Turbo charger Higher voltage coil Weber 32/36 carbie slightly larger exhaust Added 180F thermostat. Added Other ideas that could help iridium (edited) spark plugs Twin spark? Wasted spark technology Programmable ignition EA82 or SPFI manifold How am I going?

No question is "dumb". We were all low on knowledge once sapper

Impressive Bratman2 30mpg US = 36mpg imperial. If you like economy then leave it as is, tires and all I'd suggest.

I suggested to my engine builder about the $100 valve springs and he said he could not justify it mainly because my cam that ended up a 15/55 (close to yours Jono) was for torque not high revs. You have interpreted this thread as a desire for me to seek more hp. Not really, am happy with the set up now especially that wrong turn of mine to the 38/38 and now back to the 32/36- much more suitable. I'm just interested. And if dollars come my way then one day I just might do something. I've worked a lot on Lotus twin cam engines and Ford Zephyr engines but decided a long time ago where my limits are and wont fiddle/take apart blocks. I can imagine doing so, putting it all together then a problem and pulling it out and dismantling it again. My old back problem would rear its ugly head. Hence the rebuild by a guy that really knew what he was doing. Included in that rebuild as you know was a complete engine balance. I was surprised when the engine was complete how much "meat" was taken off the auto flex plate for that balance. I'd recommend it. So smooth. As for old Brumby's to tinker with. Not going to have a third registration. I had the opportunity for a brumby recently (see Ausubaru for sale) 171,000kms and driven by a lady in her 80's. Never been in 4WD for $5800...almost like new. Bargain. But I'm retired and not in the market. Tweety the trike originally had a VW 1916cc engine. The difference between that engine and the ea81 is substantial in not obvious ways. Free revving, quitter and best of all maintenance factors. Tappets every 30,000kms instead of 5,000 kms, electronic module ignition, less vibration...I'm an EA81 lover. It's a great little engine. The older you get the more you love it because the older you get the less you are a revhead. Consider this- ea81's with regular maintenance will top 400,000 kms or more especially with synthetic oils. If I do 15,000kms a year that means nearly 30 years. it will see me out. The reason for a full reconditioning. I've likely got my 74hp at the fly with this engine, maybe more. In a 660 kgms trike its ample. Might get a bit more with the right jetting especially on the secondary jets. The take off would be like a Brat with 90hp so I am content.

Sumoco, your reply "Didn't we just have a thread regarding this" suggested my question/thread wasn't worthy/valid/important and shouldn't be posted. I simply suggested to you to ignore threads you think are repeated rather that say they are irrelevant and not add to the thread actively. Name calling is not warranted. But for the sake of the group I've moved on. I've enjoyed most of the replies here on this topic even if it wavers of topic sometimes. I have ridden in an EJ'ed "L" series 4WD station wagon and its really capable and powerful. That's not my point of this thread. The point of the thread is- that with some modifications the EA can easily top 90-100hp and that output would satisfy many owners. "Reasons not to EJ it" doesn't mean why you should EJ it. Owners posting why they kept the EA engine or how they modified it to achieve more hp is relevant to the thread. I've also supercharged an ea81 engine. Well documented in this forum. Superchargers compressed intake air not damage gas. I made up my own manifolds post and pre supercharger, added a dellorto sidedraft carb and fitted all the required pulleys and tensioners for a suck thru set up. The biggest problem I faced was getting it tuned to ALL rev ranges. It was dynoed and it ran great at 3000rpm but over or under that figure it ran really rich. Used double the gas. However I think if it was a well put together blow through set up with sealed carbie running at a maximum 7psi (the maximum before reliability is gambled) it could be an answer. Such a kit could include a sprintex or similar modern SC with pulleys, carbie etc. and bolt on. Such a set up doesn't need camshaft change, head change or any other change. Even though my set up was home made by a novice (with SC's) it achieved 100hp on the dyno and that figure was right at a point when a air leak was found and no more tests were done. But the biggest advantage of the SC is power at all rev ranges even from just above idle. Has anyone installed a blow thru supercharger set up?

It seems clear to me that twin carb upgrade would be the logical way to go for a power upgrade. VW of course has that set up. In Oz, as with my trike a 1916cc engine with two solex carbs or better still two IDF weber carb one each side. So what were the options for twin carbs on EA series engines? In OZ at least the GLF series had twin hitachi carbs with them being mounted close together. Then there is the weber manifold suitable I think for an IDF central carb which isn't far off a twin carb set up. But of course we are talking more power/torque output and that will likely effect economy. Just sayin'. But we are putng economy aside. Correctly me if I'm wrong but twin carbs properly jetted should get better economy than a single carb but rarely do.

ferp420, what ignition upgrades did you do please?

I go back to one point I made and that's that 90-100hp would suffice in many cases. 16-26hp extra. But I suppose it isn't all about hp. With the right cam, breathing, compression etc the ea81 can be a spirited engine. The SPFI (I bought the system off you DFoyl) is one option but there are issues like running 40yo sensors and replacing them etc. I now run the 32/36 with SPFI manifold after my toil with the 38/38 as well documented and my engine is fully rebuilt with 9.5:1 CR. It is enough power for my 660kgm trike for sure and once jetted right will be more than adequate. I'm happy. It's simple and economical. But if I had a Brumby/brat the original set up wouldn't satisfy me either. Agreed. We need that twin carbie kit or a MPFI (new) set up. Let's say 3 stage power kit. Set up 1- twin carbs, manifolds with water transfer tube, linkages,jetted and bolt on. stage 2- stage one with new full electronic ignition, stage 3- stage 1&2 plus 2 new or refurbished heads (reversed inlet to exhaust valves) and new camshaft, stage 4 - stages 2 & 3 with single carb and Sc or turbo c/w pulleys mounts etc. and so on. Now, I'm not a Subaru expert and my suggestions might be off but you get my meaning. The Ram performance and tech engineering guys have a market out there they are not chasing. The twin carb conversions for the ea81 and 82 can use the flanges Ram performance have on their web sight under "parts" listed as intake flanges.

Sumoco....in future just scroll past the thread. It's easy to do. The closest thread like this one is "To swap for EJ22 or not to swap" which is about a member that has a spare EJ22 engine that also needed work. I'm talking about reasons to keep your EA. EJing an EA car has, yes, been done to the death. Think its time to wave the EA flag and promote its positives. The EA's demise is for several reasons. I'm about seeking ways to fix those hurdles with this thread and keep the EA. I don't for example understand why the EA isn't developed more by small operators and sold power kits. Apart from the restrictive manifold (which with those flanges can be overcome) there are restrictive heads, also overcome by the making and sale of different heads. From then on its all about ignition development, cam, and other improvements not unlike other conventional engines. Perhaps I could have named this thread "strictly improving performance of your EA engine". But then I'd get "just EJ it" and that's my point.

There have been many threads started from owners of EA engine cars that want a bit more power but don't want to "EJ it". Yet, never fail, there is always the post to "just EJ it". Lets examine this because things are about to change. The reasons for EJing a brat/Brumby, Loyale/Leone is obvious to most. The EJ fits. It isn't expensive for a conversion as you can get a 'half cut' car or head to your junk yard. Economy is competitive, its more efficient and modern and it has 140hp+ power. But I suggest there are reasons not to "EJ it". I'm of a minority but here does- the EA engines are compact, light and easy to maintain, mmmm that's it right? No. there's more. The most important reason that wasn't important a few years ago....the EA engine is the original engine for that vehicle. Let's fast track 8-10 years. Those EA owners will likely be reconditioning their engines now after 350-500 kms on the clock. So in 8 years time they might have only 100,000 kms on their engines. Whereas the EJ engines are at a wearing out period. Furthermore we are now talking about cars that are now 35-50 years old. Original examples with the EA engine in good condition will be worth a good bit of cash. What are the negatives of "EJing" a car? Firstly we are talking about putting a 140hp+ engine in a car that has a 73hp engine. An enormous increase of stress on drivetrain components. Brakes need upgrading and we don't really know the added stress on body parts. Add to that some locations like Oz need engineer reports. Cost is subjective. An EJ conversion means seeking a complete engine, brakes, radiator hoses, adapter plate, seal kit etc. EA recondition isn't cheap anymore and parts are getting harder to find. For this comparison lets say its equal. So what is the alternative for an EA owner to be satisfied...after all he/she write is because they don't have enough power. Well, that's the main reason I think for EJing it. Instant power. Since converting my trike to EA81 power I've wondered why its so darn hard to get hp out of these engines. I wont go over the reasons but the real question is why we haven't had a fabricator/company that has latched onto the car market to produce a "power kit" for EA engines. A turbo kit? There are manifold flanges for example made by RAM performance. These with tubes leading to twin carbs could be a start. A performance camshaft, ignition upgrade and so on. We are only talking about 17-20hp increase.??? Even an aftermarket weber manifold for a 32/36 or twin carbs is no longer available and are eagerly sort after. Or we could short circuit to a supercharger kit. I installed a supercharger sc12 to my EA81 and got 100hp ATW. It lifted the front wheel of my trike going from 1st to 2nd on the auto at 25mph. It was great. But unreliable as it was a home made system by a novice like me. And due to that economy was like running a V8. Where is the SC bolt on kit in a blow thru set up with carbie, new SC and connections included? Modern Superchargers like Sprintex are much more efficient than the SC12 I used (25yo) Owners of Subaru cars of the 1970's to 1994 in excellent condition often want to keep their cars original. A power upgrade will do that and give them more enjoyment without going EJ. For some an EJ isn't the answer. Vw owners are now paying high dollars for original Kombi's and beetles. They have 40hp engines. Think about that. Your view?

Yeh, went through all possible channels. Many emails. Still the same answer. - the 30 day limit . The MAF in question landed in Oz was $400 so about $450 US at the time. It was easy for anyone to get them mixed up. The MAF housing of the Nissan is only slightly larger. The part number is identical (Hitachi) but there is a number 3 in a secluded spot on the Nissan and not on the Subaru. fine, but its still the wrong part. Eventually I tried it on my spfi and nope- no go. so it ended up a door chock. Hence no rockauto for me. Its ok, I've move on. Life is full of learning.

Sapper, that's fine about Rockauto. I ordered a MAF for my then SPFI ea81. Got a MAF off a Nissan that looked near identical but couldn't install it until I got my engine back. When I did I realised it was the wrong part but the 30 days had elapsed. No go for refund/exchange. Its ok to have a 30 day period but if the wrong part was sent in the first place then that should be different. Rant over. Cheers.

Progress- two changes made. A ramflo air filter. This gave the ea81 the same increased output after I took off the snorkel set up. Sprayed a bit of that filter oil on the foam and easy install. Then I took out the 4 x 5" long motorcycle baffles in the exhausts. These had washers welded inside them to duplicate the same exhaust outlet as the stock Brat/Brumby exhaust size. The exhaust now only comprises of an effective muffler. Test ride, gee I'm making progress here. Lots more pick up. Should get a box of jets soon. But even at this stage the pick up/response is superior than the 38/38. I have an idea of hooking up a micro switch to a dash light to let me know when the second throat is opening. Think this could help me to be more economical. The transition isn't noticeable.