spideyz

A body shop will charge you way more than the car is worth. Are you trying to sell the car? If so, you'll most likely take a loss on cost of the new suspension, tires and brakes you just put on it. I would drive it until it dies, then give it away for free (to someone on this board of course:brow: ). Keith

Hang in there on this Brat. Rust free bodies are not growing on trees. Here's what I've been through: Found a brat that had been in a minor front end wreck. 87,xxx miles on it, no rust. $700 for the brat as is. $120 to get it to pass smog so I could register it. I had the frame rails pulled to straighten out front end ($240 at a body shop), Replaced both front fenders, hood and air cowling ($125 at JY), (Paint job and some dent repair ($625 at earl sheib), seat covers ($20), replaced radio console ($50 ebay), mudflaps ($25 USMB), third eye conversion ($50 USMB + $10 radio shack), brushguard ($20 craigslist-SF), replaced left taillight ($15 USMB). So far I've got $2000 into the Brat and it still needs: Rear brakes (convert to discs or new drums probably, ~$200) Muffler (~$75) Rebuilt Carburetor (hopefully not, but I'm having issues with it right now, $240) So, when my "project car" becomes my potential daily driver, I'll be into it about $2500 (not including registration fees and insurance). But I'll have one of the only Brats in Northern California, it will look great, be in good mechanical shape, and essentially rust free. I've had the luxury of it being my back up car, with plenty of time and *enough* money to do things right. My vote is to keep it and drive it:cool:. That is why these things go for so much on e-bay. They don't grow on trees and they are cool! Keith

You should be able to convert to "regular" struts for less than $500. Way less if you can find a decent JY car to part out. No air shocks = no anoying problems. If the regular shock goes bad, your ride is just not as smooth as it might be until you can afford or have time to swap it out. Keith

My 89 with air struts had a self diagnostic setting that would flash a dash light with a morse code, like the EA82 ecu. Not sure if the Legacies have the same but it might. If you compressor is trying to fill the shocks then you shouldn't need a new compressor or tank. Good luck. Keith

Yeah, I just meant to be sure you are out of 4WD. Keith

Ditto on what TSJ said. I had this happen to me. Except the parts store didnt have any more in stock and I'd already pulled the old axel before I looked at the new one.. Also, in my case the rod was not threaded enough and I had to get a washer over the regular axel washers in order to tighten the axel nut. correctly. Getting the cotter pin on right was also a pain. I will never accept a 32mm treaded axel again. Take your 36mm socket with you to the parts store and make sure its right before you leave. Keith

If the 4WD is not engaged the rears will spin freely. The rear diff and shaft will spin with them but they should be disingaged from the tranny. Keith

If they low ball you on the value of your car (which they will definitely do), you should be sure to get no less than $500 compensation for your "stiff back." The first accident I was in was 45mph into the side of a 78 buick making an ill timed left turn in front of me. No serious injuries to speak of, but the adjuster low balled me on the cars value. When I complained about their offer, he told me that he had a lot more flexability with the personal injury settlement. Assuming you dont have any medical concerns relating to this accident that could drag out into the future, you should be able to talk your way into $500-1000 for your stiff back without really exagerating your pain. Good luck. Keith

Looks like SubaruRichie might be taking the wagon. I'll be happy that my GL-10 goes to someone on the board who can use it for parts or get it going again. I still would like to try to pull the rear discs for my Brat, so maybe we'll work something out. Keith

Check your PM. Keith

I think he may be talking about holding the crank shaft gear still in order to break the nut loose... I've used a strap wrench on the gear... worked after some createive cussing. Also the screw driver in the flywheel trick is often talked about it. But if you are just replacing the belts and not the oil seals, you don't need to remove this gear anyway... Keith

I don't like the word electronic and transmission in the same phrase. Gives me the chills... Keith

might as well do the water pump while you've got all the belts out of the way, unless you just replaced it already. $40 and 45minutes well spent. Keith

What the heck does ECVT stand for anyway? Keith

I have an 89 turbo with a bad motor and a good auto tranny. If you want the tranny, take the whole car - free. Then you'll have a parts car too. I'm in the east Bay Area, about 4 hours from paso robles. PM me if interested. Keith

So how did this play out? Keith

It is a Full time 4WD automatic. Pictures should be in my gallery. Motor is toast. Overheated, so would mostlikely need new rad etc. I'll be away from the computer till monday. Keith

Are the heater hoses in that vacinity? They must go through the firewall somewhere below the spare tire. I dont know why there would be coolant up near the intake. Do you see it actively dripping anywhere? Since this seems to be a major problem for you right now, it might be worth the time to fully drain the system, remove and check/replace all the hoses including the heater hoses, replace radiator, water pump. If you do all that, you're probably looking at about $250 worth of parts and a +/-day work. Or don't. How much is the car worth to you? If you dont fix this problem before you drive it much (if at all), soon the car wont be worth $250. Keith

Could be an oil cooler? Trace any lines coming off it and see where they go. Does the car have AC? Any relation to AC use and the overheating problem?

I've got an 89 turbo touring wagon with a dead engine. Free for the taking in Northern California. I've put this on the marketplace a few times with no takers, but thought it wouldn't hurt to stick it on this tread. Keith

Make sure you have a enough motor oil in the engine. It may sound obious, but I was on a road trip once where the temp kept shooting up. Turned out I was low on oil. Added about a quart and a half and the temp went right back to were it should be. Keith

The car I'm working on is an 87 brat, but I understand that the 87 brats are basically the same as the rest of the 83-84 EA-81s, so the bently manual would be a good one to have. Anyone have it online? Keith

It is a Gregory's manual. MUCH better than the chilton I have. Good pictures (although dark in this pdf), and clear, well written instructions. I've never liked any chiltons (or haynes) manual I've used. This looks pretty good. Time to get the CD burner warmed up. Keith

Cool, not sure whats in the big zip files yet. They are coming down pretty slow. Thanks for the links! Keith

I found the Finleyweb engine section on another post here, but was wondering if anyone else had links to an electronic version of an entire FSM for and EA81. Specifically for an 87 brat, since that's what I need, but I figure any EA81 troubleshooting guidance from the FSM would be better than none. Keith