sasquatch

when you are dealing with small displacement forced induction is the way to go and by the far the most hp/$$...

was there supposed to be a pic here?

I crawled under the Subie when I got home. I can see oil pooled near the drain plug and from a low spot on the chassis. The underside of the valve covers are seepy but no sludge....I think I might be leaking a little at the oil pan itself. I hate kind of shooting in the dark like this but I guess I'll do the gaskets for the oil pan and valve covers and hope it stops..... It pisses me off that the thing wasn't leaking at all until someone other then me changes the oil....I guess I don't think they loosened my oil pan or something so I guess I have to think coincidence...

I know, shocker but my '90 Legacy is leaking oil. This is actually it's first oil leak and it has 208K. The leak isn't real bad but it's hard to tell where it's coming from. I had the oil changed at a goodyear and they used a faulty oil filter which caused oil sludge to run all over the bottom of the motor. After replacing the filter I waited about two weeks waiting for the spilt oil to stop dripping....well, I still have a small fresh oil spot in my driveway. The bottom of the valve covers have always looked weepy but I plan on doing them which shouldn't be a problem but I figure I should do the gasket behind the crank pulley. I've never done that one. Advice? Anything else I should swap out while I'm in there? I just recently did the timing belt so I'm not relishing doing it again. Maybe I should just do the valve covers and hope that stops the leak? I'd like to clean underneath the motor too but I can't think of an easy way to do it. I thought about driving to a u-wash type place, pull into the bay, jack up the car, and spray..that'll take time but get it clearner. Opinions?

$40?!? Dude, do a search, this topic has been covered before.....I cleaned mine up almost as good as new with 10 min and some brake fluid. Mild rubbing compound works well too.

if you're facing the motor on the left hand side in back of the motor near the tranny is a plastic cover, you take that off and you can lock the crank so it doesn't spin (I used a screwdriver in there)

Thanks for the replys....definitely not fan....I've dealt with that problem before. Also it ONLY makes the sound when I use the A/C or defrost and there is a perceptible lug on the motor. So, I'm thinking pump or clutch (clutch is something I haven't considered). Advice on how to proceed?

umm...anybody? bump

can you link that? I have a '90 (work server won't let me through for some reason)

Winter gas? In a lot of areas they change the formulation of the fuel they sell at the pump for different seasons.

Whenever I have the AC on (or this time of the year the defroster) my car makes a loud rattling/grumbling noise....is this the bearings in the AC pump? Though I've owned my car for 207K I've never had to mess with the AC. What's the fix? Is it cheaper just to source a used pump and have it put in?

No problem at all...the '90 Legacy was made in TN, USA not Japan

fetch... http://www.rallitek.com

again...our cars can be a huge pain the a$$ to get the air out of....I've done it many times and it almost never goes smoothly

The Scion xB I like...this...uh, no.

yep...AVO, check http://www.rallitek.com

oh, puke!

yeah, stickers are what 5hp a piece? body kit on a 91 legacy....dude, don't be that guy

Is there significant tire wear? You might have it worn down to one of the wear bars causing it to "hop" as it comes out of round....normal but a warning to go get new tires.

I had a mechanic leave a pry bar in my engine bay (from a tranny swap)

our cars have hydraulic lash adjusters...sometimes they get stuck...before dumping a bunch of detergents in your oil that will eat your gaskets and seals, take the valve cover off, find the stuck one (they look like little barrels sitting ontop of your valve train)(it will be obvious which one is busted...when you push on them a "good" on will move up and down). Take a small rubber mallet and give it a little tap....worked for me!

FWIW, I vote speedo cable too.

be careful how you tow it

to answer your question, it won't really hurt your car to run w/o the thermostat....it'll take longer for your car to get warm, but in FL I don't think you likely have frigid temps so no biggee.... In my experience burping the cooling system can be a huge PITA. Go slow, be through, don't give up. Hopefully it's not the HG>

brake fluid draws water, water eats metal, eaten metal fouls lines, fouled lines decrease braking, no brakes suck.