sasquatch

would a problem with the IAC cause a problem with the idle even after it's warm? I think tomorrow I am going to check the middle terminal on the connector to make sure it's getting power and then pull the IAC after it is warm and see if the valve is closed. won't hurt to hunt around for problem hoses as well eh? Which hoses would y'all recommend?

Well, I'm new to the board and I wish you luck with your new vehicle. My '90 Legacy has been quirky (idle) but otherwise has been a workhorse that has been very reliable for it's 205k (so far). I do find it interesting though that anyone who seemed to care about the environment would harken back to old volkswagons (or subarus for that matter). But again, good luck to you.

Timing belt is pretty easy...lots of people on here can help you before you get started.

Oh, okay...so it's not different driving "modes" but it's different shift "maps"

It's for when you're feeling "spunky" I may be wrong but without looking it up in my manual the car is supposed to have two different driving modes depending upon the needs you're asking of the car. You can actually switch between modes manually. Have I ever felt a difference? Nope.

I did know of the tendency of fluid to attract water (which I believe is why some after market brake systems use different oils in their hydraulic systems). I appreciate you clarification. Specifically though to the question...his brakes were working, he changed the pads, then they aren't working....this wouldn't seem to be due to the break down of his fluid. I am certainly no master mechanic but given that he has already tried to bleed his system there must be a sealant problem no?

Okay, so enlighten me...fluid can break down and be less effective but in a closed system, a system w/o seeps to draw in air or dirt, what debris is getting in there?

just get a rebuild kit (should be cheap--at least compared to a whole master cyl)

stop driving it until it is checked....it sounds like you may well have a front axle problem....

I agree...I've never opened the bleeder screw....opening the cap should be fine...I don't know what 'debris' is going to get into a closed system FWIW, for the pedal to go to the floor of a hydraulic sytem, I'd think you have to have something not sealted properly..... good luck..

That is a great idea. Just recently I have been marveling at my car...a '90 Legacy Wagon I purchased in 1992 with 15K on the odometer. I have absolutely pounded on this car. It has seen me through countless moves and lots of off-road miles. I currently have 205,000 miles on the original motor w/no work having been done on the internals. Other then the occasional unsteady idle (who doesn't have that problem) it runs strong, pulling right up to it's redline. My only complaints? struts sure are expensive, I'm on my 3rd set. I also replaced the tranny w/a used low mileage one last year. She's got plenty of little dings, the paint is thin and chipped, my dogs ate the carpet in my cargo area but I love her. As we speak my wife is driving it with a front door for our house loaded in the back with the hatch CLOSED. I love this car.

Use the hide-a-key that you have stashed on the car you DO have a hide-a-key don't you?

yeah, mine is on the passanger side and bolts on...strictly speaking it bolts onto the intake manifold. I have to go there today to pick up a parking light cover that some a*hole broke for me, so I'll have them pull the part. It sounded to me like they had a couple used ones that they pretty much took off the manifold with everything still bolted onto it. I have another thread about my 90's idle problem. I've only tried squirting brake cleaner where the hose connects. I haven't pulled off the whole unit. I guess I can try that next.

Really good find...i had no idea.

my '90 Legacy gets about 320 miles on a tank on a regular basis (with 206k)....with that said, it can also get 260 miles on a tank....depends which car I commute in.

So, I've been looking around for an IAC for my '90 Legacy. I called Foster Auto Parts (if you live in the US NW, you may know of them) Though they won't see me an IAC, they quoted me $50 for an entire throttle body...Good price no? I mean, I'm thinking I buy one (or two) and maybe the IAC will be good right?

bump... okay, that is the last time, I promise....anybody taken the dash apart on a 1st gen? Anybody? Hmmmm?

you mean replaced it? No....I just tried to clean it out with brake cleaner then reset the ECU

Just today I was underneath my '90 Legacy wagon.....I came to the conclusion that the heat shields are a good idea (1) you'd need to do some cutting to get them all off (2) they are located very close to some items that I wouldn't want to get to hot (3) in several spots I have put dings in my heat sheilds that had probably saved me from a busted pipe. I just tapped all along the length with a rubber mallet. I only found one area with play...I drove a 3" nail in the seam and voila, no more ratte.

I prefer the German spec 'Gudentite'

SWEET!!!! That explains what's going on with my '90 AT Wagon w/206K! I thought the rear window just wasn't pumping any fluid. Turns out I'm just driving to fast!

bump.... I want to take the dash apart and see if I can find a connector that might be the problem. To recap, about a 1/2 the time my tach and my fuel gauge go out (at the same time). Does anyone out there have experience getting to the gauges? This vehicle is a '90 and I really don't want to break any plastic clips or what not. Thanks.

I did the brake cleaner thing, reset the ECU....no dice. There might be a bit of an improvement but when the car starts up it still does it's little idle dance between 0 and 1k until it settles down around 500. The car didn't stall out when coming quickly to a stop but.... What next guys? Any more suggestions? (please)

nevermind, I checked your website...thanks! I'll report back.

I'll give it a try tomorrow...to reset the ECU, do I just pull a fuse, wait and then reinstall? What is the fuse typically labeled? 'motor'? (I'd check before I asked, but it's dark out)