subarurx yo

they both are turbo ones with 3.7, thanks for the input

i love the d/r awd, but its sadly going down hill. it sounds like i have metal flinging around in it and can hear a rough sound like bearings while cruising and excessive input shaft play:horse:. i have a push button 4wd tranny from turbo wagon, and im wondering if it would be a bolt on fit, both have 3.7 rear diffs, or is a lot of internal parts same to fix the awd one?

well i just tested one of the black with yellow stripped wires labeled injector ground according to the chart you gave me (f47 24/25 i think ) at the ecu plug, not ecu itself i tested one of the to the injector and got resistance in the wiring and the other didn't so im guessing i have a break in connection. i have power at the injector on ignition, but its not grounding:horse:

ok ill probably get a new when i save up a little for one, not having a o2 wont hurt motor right? because ive put almost 200 miles on it but now my #1 injector ground doesnt have resistance on the manifold harness so i gotta figure that out

i dont really feel like spending the at least 50 bucks for a new oxygen sensor and EVERY out of about 10 ejs at the wrecking yard has whole front exhuast removed with o2 so i was curious if its safe to use one off a different car and if so, any ideas? or are used o2s not a good idea

it works now:D

ok thanks ill try that and see what happends

my bad lol i dont have idiot light hooked up since i couldnt figure out which wire to hook to and figured i didn't need it since i have a guage

yep alt. is bad lights went very dim and engine stalled and wouldnt start up. i tested volts on the alternator where the big white wires connect and 8.2v at idle and about 6v at higher rpms so gonna have oreillys test tomorrow to be positive and get a 96-99? one and convert connector for higher amps

i do believe my alternator is working, i used a volt meter and connected to thhe batt. and the volts slowly climb between 12 and 13v

ok , and thanks again for all the help.

ive searched and cant seem to find a diagram showing where the volt guage, temp, and vss is, out of the two round plugs for the guages, im finishing my ej swap, i already have it running, its a 87 rx

i have a rx with front and rear disk brakes, so what is all required to swap to 5-lug. i have easy access to early legacys if those will work

ya i may do that in the long run

is it just the turbos?, perhaps i could single turbo it?

i found a ad on craigslist for a ej20 twin turbo motor that has everything and its disassembled but its in good shape he claims i was wondering if theirs any major differences between it and a ej22 na besides heads and turbos of course, i am in the process of swapping ej22 in my rx but ej20tt sounds nice also

i know that knowone recomended it but i welded the holes shut and drilled new ones i tack welded the template and drilled in between the welds and it turned out ok it did take a while due to dulling the bit 15 times but i wanted to see if it could be done

ive checked the prices on the endmills and theyre way out of my budget, so im unsure what to do

where's the easiest place to get the endmill? As I will probably go that route

im swapping to ej and i was wondering what kind of cast it is since i will be welding the holes and redrilling since i only found one shop that would mill for $120 and thats too much and a place told me 50 bucks for a dremal bit. so i was thinking i could do it at school, there isnt a mill but we got mig tig and stick welders. any suggestions?

problem fixed i turned flywheel wrong direction to the 0 degrees

should i unwrap the main harness that runs through left fender and remove ea stuff like maf, dizzy wires, main engine control... or leave it, sorry for hassle i just wanna make things best and easy as possible

OK so what all should I remove electrical wise

so what exactly dont i need, just all original engine control?

ok so what do i remove then just the little panel under steering column