subarurx yo

im gonna take my engine wire harness and replace a lot of the connectors to see if it works

with the maf off it kinda backfires and stalls

i found the cts with 2 wires and it was unplugged! because the plastic on the connector was old and all chipped up and very corroded so i replaced the cts and and cleaned the plug the best i could, but i still get the ecu code. anyways, so how do i clear codes? do i just plug the green connector in with the ignition on?

i just checked ecu codes again and i got 14,21,22,23 and 24 :-\ oh and i was just curious if the cts is the thingy with one wire next to the thermostat, because i replaced it with parts i had layin arround

i never used maf cleaner but i used carb and electronic cleaner but this was well before the issues occured

ok so i replaced the distributor and it started up right away, then continued to do the same thing, but when i disconnect the dizzy and reconnect it it starts right up, then after a little it will cut out and die and the only way to get it started is to disconnect and reconnect the plug. this has got me totally confused:confused:

ya i did once turn the boost up and something with my 20 dollar ebay mbc wasnt set right and was accidentally hitting about 18psi and blew the hg but i got another motor and tore the old one down and no visible damage was done, also never blew the intake manifold gasket either but all of the same electrical components were used and the same intake manifold. any ways im changing the dizzy out as my cap had scratch marks on the tabs inside of it, along with the rotor was scratched up but it was on tight and the screw was in. i was thinking that i may have screwed the dizzy up by missing a shift and hitting 7.5k rpm:( the head gasket seems to hold though, i used the fel-pro perma torque and gave it 60ft/lbs of torque

i have a 1987 rx with a ea82t and when its cold it will run fine but after 5-10 miles it will surge really bad and jolt the car and the only way for it to stop is to rev it up, pop the clutch and go, then it will die and start and run for only about 1 second and die. after about 45 minutes it starts and runs like crap. i tested the ecu and got code 21 which i think is cts but when warmed up the temp reads normal. fuel presure reads about 38psi at idle so far i cleaned out the maf with carb cleaner and replaced the TPS i have a top mount intercooler with a bov and 2.5in straightpipe and is boosting 9psi on the stock waste gate anyway please help! thanks

this happened to me and it caught on fire i think the alternator and ac wires were together and the insulation was worn off causing a short, i just cleaned it up and put new wire in and it works to this day

i have a ea82t and i pulled it completely apart to find the ring lands to be broke but mine smoked bad

never mind the check for spark i said since you cant if the rotor isnt moving lol

ya could be the timing belt, does it sound different then normal while cranking over? once my cam pulley actually came off the right, due to not torquing down and it kept running on two cylinders but thats why i leave my timing shrouds off is for easier fixin lol i would also check for spark

i have the same issue every time i do headgaskets the lash adjusters make alot of noise i dont put them back in the same place usually but if you soak them in oil before you put them back in then it may not knock, i also tried oil additive stuff thats really thick and it goes away after about 30min

i would try the injectors as it happend twice on me first the 2 right then left sometimes it would gain and loose power randomly until they completely quit so i got it running and unplugged injectors, one at a time listening for change in rpm and the ones with no difference were bad, i replaced them and it ran strong