subarurx yo

Well that's all it turned out to be the belt is used and has been removed and installed a few times due to many times being apart so that would explain the worn tensioner more than likely

well it appears i may not have to tear my 2.5 apart, after i took the engine out and down to the longblock i noticed the timimg belt very loose and the tensioner wasn't even touching the tensioner puley and when i pull the belt tight it makes that clunk that sounds just like it did while running, so i slowely re compressed the tensioner like i should and slid it all the way to the left, where it puts the most tension on the belt, tightened it and pulled the pin on it and the rod only came out about half way, not even tensioning the belt.

ok thanks for the advice, ill pick up some fresh ones, the only reason i spayed is because the black coating was rubbed off, after checking prices for bearings i should be able to get some along with head gaskets

this has also probably been covered but the 98 ej25d had mls head gaskets i reused with copper spray and have held up to mashing on it a lot and my question is: do they come factory with mls hg they have the fuji stamp, and are the mls ones ok to reuse

sorry for the confusion those were just some thoughts like if i was to put together the low compression 2.5 then boost it down the road, as for the 2.2 yes the halves are apart. but the ej25 sb is still under pnp warranty i just have the problem of location a good one

ok so i must have compared the ej22 to the ej18 stroke my bad, but if i was to run a "de-stroked" franken moter, would it be a low enough CR to run low boost, i may sound dumb for asking this, but my ej22 is in pieces and i love trying new things to my car and i got time at hand

so after 4-500 miles on my ej25d/ej22e phase I franken motor it sounds like a metal to metal loud deep squeak with a tap and i still have a great ej22 shortblock, im on a very low budget and saw that they both have the same stroke so im wondering if all the bearing sizes are the same between the two motors so i could use 2.2 guts in the 2.5?

i figured it out i just popped the pin out with pliers and got the cable out

ok so i searched and cannot figure out how to remove my clutch cable, after half the day researching and crawling under the dash, the furthest i got is removing the 14mm nut i think holds the pedal on. Also how do you remove the pin that's on the spring attached to the pedal, if it needs to come out? It would be nice to have pics too.

well both run through the turbo but im not sure if the oil cools it much?

A ej22 in my opinion is a great swap, its reliable, powerful (135hp ish) and gets good mpg but it does take some work and money, research it and you will see:D

where i had mine is off the vacuum line running straight up off the intake manifold on the right side, i think if you follow the line from the vacuum canister thing for diff lock? behind right strut tower you should be able to find it and i just used a T and spliced in it. i swapped to n/a ej but still have the motor so i can maybe snap some pics tomorrow where to put it

ok thanks, ill pick one of those circuit testers up sometime and do some testin'

I checked it out and definitely is a need for someone working on electrical, also does the ecu case itself need grounding, mine is attached by zip ties?

ya i thought it may be and i checked grounds, according to the ecu pinout charts you gave me, at ecu plugs and everything seemed grounded that should be, but i may be missing some, anyways today i swapped the #4 injector with a injector from a 1&2 fuel rail instead of another #4 injector and it seemed to solve the misfire issue and i drove it to the beach and back just fine, but im skeptical of the weird tweaking out of electronics

when my engine stalls for whatever reason, with the ignition still on i hear stuff that sounds like electrical buzzing, the tach jumps and the fuel pump either continues to run, or cycle, like the ecu is trying to make it run?? and a couple times it has sputtered after 2-3 minutes after shutting the car off?, I also have had misfire on #4 and swapping injector with a used hasn't helped, i put a new fuel filter on and ran injector cleaner through it, VERY often it will miss at low rpms with full throttle and or high rpms, and sometimes it feels kinda more sluggish and when to the floor at around 4500rpm feels like vtec and gets full power and at the same rpm every time/ any gear, #4 cylinder is now always missing since random when i started it and sometimes idles fine. ECU codes i pulled before today was i think 51 and the one for the o2 sensor(no sensor hooked up) the engine is Swapped in a rx, and never fails to run, but has weird issues

ok ill try filter and cleaner

dang now that i think of it, the filter hasn't been changed since i got the car over 4k miles ago. I replaced 1and 3 injectors with used ones as they completly quit, but it took a while for the injectors to work too as there wasn't a difference right away and the engine jolted all arround on two cylinders, may try a tps today as its like 5 bucks, possibly 2,4 injectors and fuel filter

my car when accelerating, changes its tone like its missing between about 2000-4000rpm like its detonating, kinda clears and power feels like its surging but not joltiong arround,but it falls on its face after 5000rpm and ive replaced the knock sensor since old one was cracked allover and it went away completely then came back, i have ran injector cleaner through it and at first, before this issue i got 28mpg then to 20mph then 24 when filled with premium gas. I reasearched but no luck, its a swap from a 92 legacy. it doesn't always do this but usually disconnecting knock sensor while its running fixes for about 3 starts of so, before i replaced the knock sensor , when starting sometimes i had to hold it to the floor while cranking it and it ran on two cylinders until i drive or rev it up, then goes normal. Im just confused and trying to work out the bugs, so ideas will be appreciated .

my rx has the jack normally under a wood peice thing under carpet behind the left fender well

not one sign of hg failure before when i got it, the motor was from a bad tranny car so figured it had a good motor, but old oil looked good, the motor also sat in my shop for a couple months before putting in my car, but still holdin' coolant and ive been stepping on it kinda a lot:brow:

havent re torqued but it looks easy to do so i guess i can, still no loss of coolant within about another 100 miles of driving today, just a thought but could there have been condensation in the engine that steamed out from the eccesive heat?

well this is strange, but decided i would take the thermostat out and try again, and i have no signs of a bhg and stays cool, no steam or coolant loss,the torque sequence i forgot but it was the one i researched and every one said it was the proper way, i saw a thread that (general disorder) posted in that he said when it gets hot the head can slightly warp, causing coolant to escape

i changed them just to have fresh ones and the olds didn't get blown and it has white cream on the inside of oil filler cap never happend till now, and i didn't find water in oil, it also steamed while running

i bought a 92 ej22 at a yard for like 200 bucks with 178k on it so i replaced hg s with fel-pro and old ones looked good, i torqued to spec and cleaned block and head well, i put altogether and put in my rx as a swap and had a gutted thermostat for 1500mi then decided to get one which was a oriellys one, now i just found out to only use subaru ones. It was staying good temp with working fan, 50 miles later it then suddenly got very hot and blew the hg with steam out the oil fill tube and blowing all coolant into overflow. I did this swap to avoid these issues. Could just using non-subaru thermostats cause this, any is there any special tricks while doing hg s, or? , its sad my ea82t that was abused held up longer:(