
Robert Harik
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Everything posted by Robert Harik
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It depends on what you want and can afford. 300,000 is a lot miles on a bottom end even if it is not making noise. If you dont have a lot of money and your not that worried about reliability( and like working on it ) use your old short block.New heads on the old short block are not going to hurt anything unless you take it out and thrash it. If it were mine and I didn't have the money for a complete bottom end rebuild, I would at least disassemble it and measure and replace what wasn't spec( you may end up replacing quite a bit anyway).
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Issues
Robert Harik replied to brwnhnd's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Have you checked / changed the fluid? -
Seafoam MSDS from their site Pale oil 40-60%( light petroleum oil) Naptha 25-35% (cheap, common solvent) IPA( isopropyl alcohol) 10-20% It is snake oil. Most people run it through their induction systems to remove carbon from the combustion chambers and it does work somewhat for that , but not because of any chemical action. Putting liquids through the combustion chamber of a running engine knocks carbon loose by mechanical action ( water has been used for years and it works just as well and is free). The impressive smoking from sea foam is caused mostly by the burning pale oil it contains( not from the carbon being knocked loose and burned). I would not run any liquid through a running engine. I have seen/ worked on engines with damaged pistons , bent rods, blown head gaskets from using Seafoam / water / other liquids from hydraulic lock. The large amount of burning pale oil and carbon released can also damage your 02 sensors and cats( replaced those too). As far as a crankcase additive or piston soak, naphtha( common in parts cleaners) is a good degreaser, but will not soften or remove carbon no matter how long it soaks. The only common chemical that will remove carbon is sodium hydroxide( lye) products like purple power and I wouldn't put that through any engine either.
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Like what was said above do a compression test first to check the overall condition of the engine.Who did the rebuild and what was done? When you say cut out ,do you mean the engines idles and runs normally then at 2- 3000 rpm it dies, or the rpm's drop back and it still runs, or you hit 2- 3000 and it cuts out and you give more throttle and then the rpm will increase beyond 2- 3000 normally?
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if the timing belt didn't skip the check you compression ( you might have a tight or burned valve) The unburned fuel from the miss will cause your cat to overheat. When you replace the plugs were they carbon fouled /covered with soot? Were they all the same? Was your car running rich( poor gas milage , sooty exhaust before the steady miss started)? If the engine mechanicals check out and the missing is from fouled plugs then check you ECT( engine coolant temp) sensor( you said you checked the fuel pressure).
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I don't know about yours but my injectors/ plugs are hard to get to. You can use a regular test light , hook the test light ground to an engine ground and either pierce the plug boot with the sharp end of the tester( when you want to ground out that plug) or you can stick straight pins into each boot and then touch it with the tester probe.
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Its always hard to tell from a video, but it does not sound like a rod. Since its louder at start ( cold ) maybe piston slap. Get an automotive stethoscope and look/ listen around. Accessories ( alternator, power steering pump, AC comp.) can make a lot of noise. Pull off your accessory drive belts , if the sound is still there( wasn't an accessory) you will be able to hear the engine much better. Run the engine till you can hear the noise, and start pulling/grounding plug wires or shorting out plugs one at a time till you find the offending cylinder( noise will change, get much softer or disappear when there is no fire on bad cylinder). Also the timing belt tensioner can make clicking /knocking sound when worn( with a stethoscope you will be able to find out where the sound is coming from).
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We just bought an 05(55,000 miles) and it does show signs of oil weeping( pretty dry) under the drivers side head /block parting line, but I knew this before we bought it. We looked at quite a few Foresters and outbacks 2001-2006 and ALL had some signs of head gasket leaks( these were all at dealer, lots Subaru and others). Some were oil leaks and some coolant leaks. I looked at the forums before we shopped, and I knew about the head gasket problems. I brought a mirror and high intensity flash light for inspections. I just think they all leak to some extent, whether the 05 is any worse, I don't know, havn't seen anything about it. I bought the car knowing that I would replace the head gaskets at 100,000miles when the timing belt was needed. The car fax listed the shop that did the maintenance ,so I called them and they said the head gaskets had never been done. Mine does not drip oil and is very clean at the head / block parting line except for the small bit of dry oil/ dirt. If you are not leaking oil and you are not burning oil( your oil level does not drop much between changes) , don't worry about it. As far as oil and coolant mixing on this model , I have only heard of that happening on much earlier models. I will research this more though.
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What a load. He did make one good point: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2234058 http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2156769&highlight=rear+o2+sensor http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1654883&highlight=rear+o2+sensor This code is a problem with all all cars and using the spacer is common, but in california( bay area) they look, and if you have this set up you will fail smog. This is easy to build and works great: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YkMD7uS47b4 Only for pre 05?