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Robert Harik

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Everything posted by Robert Harik

  1. If you do have a rod knocking( and all the other noises going on) and you have run it for that many miles you will probably have a lot to replace( might have to get another engine to rebuild). Have you cut open the oil filter on any of the oil changes?
  2. It depends on what you want and can afford. 300,000 is a lot miles on a bottom end even if it is not making noise. If you dont have a lot of money and your not that worried about reliability( and like working on it ) use your old short block.New heads on the old short block are not going to hurt anything unless you take it out and thrash it. If it were mine and I didn't have the money for a complete bottom end rebuild, I would at least disassemble it and measure and replace what wasn't spec( you may end up replacing quite a bit anyway).
  3. Like what was said above, if it quiets down after its warmed up its probably piston slap and unless its extremely bad won't hurt anything. OBDII started around 96 ,so your is probably OBDI . On OBDI vehicles you can have a lot going on ( wrong ) and never get a code. Sounds like you need a tune up.
  4. Here are some good threads : http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/88-head-gasket-issues/
  5. Used to be a Toyota( arguably one of the most reliable brands) tech and I can't even count the number of head gaskets I did on the 3.0 v6, and short block replacements and rebuilds for the 1ZZFE 1.8 ( oil burner).
  6. i like gunk engine cleaner, the gel type is the best , it doesn't run off. The only spot I am really careful with is the alternator( solvents can get into the sealed bearings).Old plug wires get dry porous and can soak up solvent and water( causing missing).
  7. Seafoam MSDS from their site Pale oil 40-60%( light petroleum oil) Naptha 25-35% (cheap, common solvent) IPA( isopropyl alcohol) 10-20% It is snake oil. Most people run it through their induction systems to remove carbon from the combustion chambers and it does work somewhat for that , but not because of any chemical action. Putting liquids through the combustion chamber of a running engine knocks carbon loose by mechanical action ( water has been used for years and it works just as well and is free). The impressive smoking from sea foam is caused mostly by the burning pale oil it contains( not from the carbon being knocked loose and burned). I would not run any liquid through a running engine. I have seen/ worked on engines with damaged pistons , bent rods, blown head gaskets from using Seafoam / water / other liquids from hydraulic lock. The large amount of burning pale oil and carbon released can also damage your 02 sensors and cats( replaced those too). As far as a crankcase additive or piston soak, naphtha( common in parts cleaners) is a good degreaser, but will not soften or remove carbon no matter how long it soaks. The only common chemical that will remove carbon is sodium hydroxide( lye) products like purple power and I wouldn't put that through any engine either.
  8. Don't know off hand, but I would guess quite a bit . If you have a clamp on ammeter you can put it on the battery cable and check it. Or use a regular volt meter set to amps and put it in series with the battery cable.
  9. I am trying to help you , you don't have to follow my advice , but don't be rude.
  10. Like what was said above do a compression test first to check the overall condition of the engine.Who did the rebuild and what was done? When you say cut out ,do you mean the engines idles and runs normally then at 2- 3000 rpm it dies, or the rpm's drop back and it still runs, or you hit 2- 3000 and it cuts out and you give more throttle and then the rpm will increase beyond 2- 3000 normally?
  11. if the timing belt didn't skip the check you compression ( you might have a tight or burned valve) The unburned fuel from the miss will cause your cat to overheat. When you replace the plugs were they carbon fouled /covered with soot? Were they all the same? Was your car running rich( poor gas milage , sooty exhaust before the steady miss started)? If the engine mechanicals check out and the missing is from fouled plugs then check you ECT( engine coolant temp) sensor( you said you checked the fuel pressure).
  12. You don't rip a large hole lol, you make a small prick with a sharpened probe or straight pin. No it won let the spark out or water in. Its your car though, so you have to be comfortable with what work is done.
  13. I don't know about yours but my injectors/ plugs are hard to get to. You can use a regular test light , hook the test light ground to an engine ground and either pierce the plug boot with the sharp end of the tester( when you want to ground out that plug) or you can stick straight pins into each boot and then touch it with the tester probe.
  14. Its always hard to tell from a video, but it does not sound like a rod. Since its louder at start ( cold ) maybe piston slap. Get an automotive stethoscope and look/ listen around. Accessories ( alternator, power steering pump, AC comp.) can make a lot of noise. Pull off your accessory drive belts , if the sound is still there( wasn't an accessory) you will be able to hear the engine much better. Run the engine till you can hear the noise, and start pulling/grounding plug wires or shorting out plugs one at a time till you find the offending cylinder( noise will change, get much softer or disappear when there is no fire on bad cylinder). Also the timing belt tensioner can make clicking /knocking sound when worn( with a stethoscope you will be able to find out where the sound is coming from).
  15. If they are original to the car , replace them. They don't just instantly fail, they wear over time( then fail). I have repacked sealed bearings many times( usually they fail from lack of grease), but I would not take a chance on such a critical item/ area.
  16. Oh so your saying its like potpourri, you could actually add scents to the motor oil, like pine, strawberry , mint. Someone should contact SOA they could make a fortune!
  17. I think there is a Subaru service bulletin for the Tribeca on this. PCV/PCVhoses blocked with sludge/ causing smoking on start up.
  18. We just bought an 05(55,000 miles) and it does show signs of oil weeping( pretty dry) under the drivers side head /block parting line, but I knew this before we bought it. We looked at quite a few Foresters and outbacks 2001-2006 and ALL had some signs of head gasket leaks( these were all at dealer, lots Subaru and others). Some were oil leaks and some coolant leaks. I looked at the forums before we shopped, and I knew about the head gasket problems. I brought a mirror and high intensity flash light for inspections. I just think they all leak to some extent, whether the 05 is any worse, I don't know, havn't seen anything about it. I bought the car knowing that I would replace the head gaskets at 100,000miles when the timing belt was needed. The car fax listed the shop that did the maintenance ,so I called them and they said the head gaskets had never been done. Mine does not drip oil and is very clean at the head / block parting line except for the small bit of dry oil/ dirt. If you are not leaking oil and you are not burning oil( your oil level does not drop much between changes) , don't worry about it. As far as oil and coolant mixing on this model , I have only heard of that happening on much earlier models. I will research this more though.
  19. What a load. He did make one good point: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2234058 http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2156769&highlight=rear+o2+sensor http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1654883&highlight=rear+o2+sensor This code is a problem with all all cars and using the spacer is common, but in california( bay area) they look, and if you have this set up you will fail smog. This is easy to build and works great: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YkMD7uS47b4 Only for pre 05?
  20. Hey take it easy on your husband, remember he has to put up with you:Flame:
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