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Everything posted by coloradosubarules
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I was feeling lazy today so I called around to get a quote on how much it would cost to have someone do the timing for me. After a few calls of $120.00 (belt not included) and alot of people saying "Subarus are a rare breed and we won't touch them", I decided to try it again and if I get it right, open my own shop that only works on Subarus. The first one worked but I am going to have to skip the later one due to the fact that it probably wouldn't pay as much as Working for the IT consultant firm. I think the CE light is going to be the code that retards the timing and causes it to act sluggish in a certain RPM range. I am going to reset the ECU, TCU tommorow morn and go from there. We are bartles and james and we thank you for your support
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The belts marks were gone but I was at the parts store earlier and read the manual, came home and counted teeth and then marked it with white-out. I also lined up the marks on the cam pulleys and the mark on the crank. Needless to say she is purring now and once again I love my Subaru. Lets just see if it can outrun a hurricane.
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Just to let everone know, my car is fixed and running smoothly so please save your advice for some other person in need and don't waste it on me anymore. Everone on here was extremely helpfull. BTW: The crank sprocket did not just slide off. I had to use a gear puller and the key would not budge for anything! I think it was welded to the shaft. I just worked around it. I even tried heating it with no results. If you are reading this and considering doing a belt or seal yourself, take my advice and mark everything well! the cam pulley, crank, belts....and my words! Mark them well.
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I got lucky, the previous owner replaced all the seals when he did the timing elt and water pump. I wish he went the extra mile and did the oil pump seal because that sprung a leak. They don't look to hard to do though. I know yall just got done cleaning up after Chraley, looks like Frances has plans for us too. I hope you and yours get thought it all safely. If you ever need help give me a holler. I am 2 hours south of Orlando but I have friends in Orlando I like to visit. I used to live in WInterpark off Goldenrod.
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Not to sound sexest but I am to assume that the poster of this thread is a woman. Birthyear of 1945 as stated in the profile. I think we would be asking a bit much of this person to try to get them to put their car on jackstands. If they want to do it and feel they could do it in a safe maner then by all means please do so. If the ideal of having your vehicle moving while hanging in the air scares the daylights out of you...take it to a mecanic you know and trust. I know saving money is great by doing it yourself but keeping everyone safe should be your main concern. If you feel i have barked up the wrong tree then please disregard this message and good luck with your vehicle. We will always be here to answer any questions you may have.
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Too late, I just walked in the door from doing the job. Thanks to everyones help on here it went as smooth as silk. Yes the car still runs. I had to put it together without the timing cover for now because I have to order one. I can't thank you all enough. If you all were here we would go out to eat. Don't bad mouth Sasquatchs or you will be sorry....
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Like I am going to take advice from someone who kidnapped the best rappers alive! Thanks for the help though. Nobody has answered my question regarding the key though. How do I remove it? Pliers? I am going to set the cam to TDC then mark the crank and cam pulleys with a grease marker so that way it will be easy to time if need be. I found out from the previous owner that the WP/cam seals and crank seals were replace when he did the timing belt not too long ago.
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I am taking the timing belt off of my 90 legacy to reseal the oil pump and I need to know exactly what tools I am going to need to take it off and put it back on. The 2 front belts and shroud are already off. Any advice would be greatly appreciated as I will be doing the work today 8/30/04. I am on Eastern time 10:45am. Thanks in advance How do I remove the key from the crank? How do I take tension off the belt? Where is this O-ring people keep talking about? Front or back of oil pump? Is this the O-ring? http://www.partsamerica.com/PartDetails.asp?SourceArea=&SourcePage=SEARCHRESULTS&MfrCode=BAR&MfrPartNumber=0523640&PartType=925&PTSet=A Do I have to worry about throwing the timing off just by taking the belt off? If a single person can answer these questions I have on this page then I can get to work and be driving again.
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I had a problem like that with my Dodge minivan but I found this stuff at the parts store that dropped the temp by 20 degrees or something like that. It is called "Ice water" (something like that) and comes in a big, blue metal can with a handle on it. There is also a product called "water wetter" in a red bottle that works great as well. Always try to get to the heart of the problem but use those items for the meantime so you don't have to give up your DD. Hope this helps.
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HEY SAS!! I saw you on the MTV Video music award tonight and I must say you have lost some weight. I know I saw you doing some good cardio on the new beasties video but I thought it was for show. But then on the other hand when you live in the forest I guess there isn't much carbs kicking around to eat. So how is the Atkins diet working out for you? I am on the Burger King Angus burger diet and I must say I am feeling pretty good. If they only had good fries I would be set. Keep up the good work.
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Here is a nice little tip... If you have ever plugged a flat tire, than you have one of those hole reamers kicking around that comes with the kit you get at Wally world. Use this and a hammer to remove the pin that holds the CV shaft in at the tranny. When installing the new pin be sure the holes are lined up and that the tappered hole is easy to get to then use a socket extension (10" or so) to install the new pin. Just stick the pin in the extension's hollowed part and go to town. When it is in as far as you can get it with that end...flip it around. Just be sure you drive it in straight. They are pretty hard to bend but I am sure it can be done. Hope this helps. If you can't find the axle cheap enough, send it to me with return postage and $45.00 and I will have Stuart Axles of Stuart FL rebuild it. (Shamless plug)
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I tried driving it after I reset it, it overheated, would not shift for sheot and felt like is was trying to "check out." After I let it sit for a few hours it was better than it was before the check engine light came on. It was showing a 22 and 42. Knock sensor and idle air. Neither one has come back and I have put a few hundred on the car since then. Weird aye. Still the best cars ever made hands down...even if they are possesed.
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Thanks for the pics but which one is the oil pump and what screws should I be looking for? What does those 2 downward facing bolts do on the front of the engine, smack in the middle. Here is alink to an oil seal I found at advance auto. Is this the one I am going to need to replace? How hard is it? What kind of task is it to get the key out so the timing gear slide off? Should I worry about throwing the time off by just replacing the pump seal? How do I take tension off the belt? http://www.partsamerica.com/PartDetails.asp?SourceArea=&SourcePage=SEARCHRESULTS&MfrCode=BAR&MfrPartNumber=0523640&PartType=925&PTSet=A
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Oil pump? Screws? Huh? where might I find those items? Anybody have a diagram of the timing belt routing? Whats it going to take to get the oil pump out? Do I have to pull the timing belt? If I do will the timing be off if I just remove the oil pump? I need details...lots of details. Thanks in advance.
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Ok..I pulled the belts, pulled the timing cover, and all that stuff. Took the car for a spin and noticed that the oil is leaking from what look to be between the waterpump and block? NO CLUE!! There is a sprocket next to the waterpump on the leftside of it, is this the oil pump shaft? This is driving me batty!! HELP!!!